100Tours

Cost of living or the cost of races? For me there are a few things going on - Advertising. The big headline races like 94.7, CTCT seem to be advertising less. or the old channels don't reach as many people as they used to. There are various reasons I am sure, but advertising drives aspiration and turnout, and then the trickle down to smaller 'qualifying'/seeding races. (I'm happy to be wrong here - this is my opinion with no data). New riders are not browsing the CSA website. Time and Cost. There are some races that I skip just because you have to drive to the venue twice - once for your number and then again for your race (number collection anywhere has this issue). We have the tech to not have to do number collection. Races seem to be a lot more expensive to organise too, but all the old models are still used. Professionalisation.. There are tons of new cyclists out there - I do think the sport is growing very nicely, but racing is no longer the standard measure of progress. Trail centres for the win, and cycling clubs. Organised races used to be about trail access (or road closure). No longer true - there is now a racing career or a recreational focus to consider.

Yah I also had to find out that I should not be using my fingertip on the blind side of a 20mm board I was drilling in to. Straightest hole I have ever drilled until the 3mm tip popped out the far side and into my index finger.

For some odd reason most of the tandem couples that we ride with seem to have a MTB past, so you are in good company there. Welcome to the worshond club. Your size combination is almost exactly the same as myself + wife on our tandem. Tandem sizing is deliberately quite forgiving and accommodating - in particular the stoker position is very adjustable, so you should generally look for a bike that fits the captain and then adjust to the stoker. Riding a 56 you're looking for something like the cannondale X/S sizing (L/S might work too). To answer the second question you need to remember that one bike is never enough. neither are 2 bikes. 3 is still too few. And I don't think you will easily find someone to hire you a tandem on a regular basis. Look at second hand options, take one out for a spin, but if you start enjoying riding one then you should rather think of buying one. You'll find good options from R10k upwards, with the top end local tandem around R30k. Much more costly options are possible, but those only on import. For good control on a tandem an important consideration is usually disk brakes, so do go for disks if you can find them. Old-school canti brakes also do a passable job as a second best option. Third question - you'll be OK the first time you hop on one, but over time you will become better at cornering, you'll be more relaxed on the bike (you'll fight it less), and you'll learn to climb better. Practice makes perfect. Final thought - tandems will change the way you ride. Most noticeably you will freewheel less - it is just more natural to hold a rhythm while you are both pedalling, you'll learn to go downhill faster, and you'll find longer distances to be more achievable. If you enjoy riding it together you'll keep riding it. We did the CTCT this year on a tandem (in the rain), and I suspect it was by far the most comfortable bike in those conditions. Being a heavier steed, a tandem holds its head well in the wind and it feels very sure footed in the wet. We had a quick and comfortable ride, pulling our group right out through Simon's Town, and coming home comfortably in some really lousy conditions. I think we would have had a truly lousy time on singles. Good luck with yours

Just say no, politely. You may eventually find your buyer, but it takes a while before someone wants to offer you full price. BM is offering you cash almost immediately, including collecting the bike. Sometimes this is better than having the next 15 idiots ask you if it is still available and then ghost you.. I'm guessing they are looking at what they think the bike is worth to them - what you paid for it is actually meaningless. This is why it is called a marketplace - willing buyer, willing seller and all. I have made a number of offers well below asking price when I think the item is not worth the list price. I don't think it is offensive to the seller to make a low offer.

+1 for getting wheels built up for you - I've had a few tandem wheels built (rated for a 150kg 'rider'). We had no trouble with a pair of 32h Alu Alexrims rims on Hope hubs. If you get the spoke tensions right your standard wheel sets will perform just fine.

The Cervelo stem makes more sense to me - wider and slimmer. I am dubious of the aero advantages of a stem piercing that looks barely big enough to take a drinking tube. You could funk it up with a big earring, otherwise I'm not seeing the point.

I don't like the front end at all - that stem offends me and the little air intakes on the side of the head tube seem silly (they should at least include those nasal turbine inserts and then exit around the seat clamp to be reasonably effective, surely 😛) If you're not winning world tours then these cosmetics are important considerations in maintaining some level of pride in yourself.

For gravel in SA I think you'll appreciate 45mm tyres (for our gravel) and 2x gearing (for finding good rhythm gears on long dirt roads) However, when you opt for wider tyres you also limit your front chainring options. So 45mm tyres usually mean no more than a 46t or 48t front ring.

Most airlines have a maximum battery size that they will accept. Better chat to them.

I ride anything between a 53cm Pinarello and a 56cm classic frame. So it depends a little on the bike you're looking at (not helpful I know). Personally the most important dimension (for me) is reach - which for purposes of my analysis you can take as the distance from your elbow to your fingertip. if you place your elbow at a right angle against the tip of the saddle then your fingertips should reach to the middle of the stem (forearm horizontal) on a road bike. You can adjust the saddle position and the stem length to make this work, but if the saddle is reasonably centered and the stem is between 80 and 120mm you'll be about right. Longer stems are also possible, but if you're new then start with something in the middle of the range. The larger frame will have a higher front/longer head tube, which supports a more upright position. Also the longer (large) bike will be more stable. The smaller frame conversely will be more responsive, and stiffer, and lower.

well it does get your knuckles out beyond the line of the chainrings I guess. just don't hit them on the floor when it decides to let go.

I am still running a pair of tubolitos - they have been puncture free for forever and definitely a better option than latex in my mind. All the usual requirements apply - use good tyres, keep them pumped up and check your pressures before your ride. However, if you do manage to puncture them then that's probably it - I ran them on a heavier setup for a while and I kept having issues. The stick-on patches do not work. I have had some success running tubeless sealant (slime, not latex) in tubolitos. That worked for about 1000k, then gave in. I didn't top them up at that point, just retired them.

This is genius. I've always heard that you shouldn't use your shoe for braking - but your solution changes everything. Seriously I do think this is an interesting business. The artwork element also adds an interesting dimension.

I use one of these to tune my brake pads - have always had good results Icetoolz 55B1 Croco Brake Shoe Tuner | Cyclelab

Disconnect caliper, hold the cable with your fingers. Does the lever pull firmly? you should get a clean and firm ~2cm cable pull. Now check the cable route through the caliper. no obstructions? Does the caliper actuate easily in your hand? If that doesn't solve it then I'm a bit lost.

adding a link won't damage anything.. it is too long if the chain touches the RD on the return leg when in the smallest sprockets - i.e. picture #4 above

neither one of those kids had a mustache. the papers would have been all over that

I have been wondering how the same events would have played out differently in other parts of the world? Not likely the same way UK - Sternly worded letter to all involved. France - Hotel management refuse to call police due to effort involved Belgium - Kids and Parents carried off by angry mob for interfering with cycling business USA - Kids and parents arrested for public nuisance. Also hotel management and curious onlookers. RSA - Police collect R500 from all parties (ambitious - only assuming there were already police on site) Between the TT crash, the seagull incident and a pair of Aussie teens I think the Dutch may not be boking holidays in Aus this year.

I think the Dutch might benefit from different management - not perhaps the same oke who forgot to tell him about that wooden ramp?

he has denied touching them.. let's see. But I feel really sorry for him - the night before a race like that you're going to be feeling pretty stressed about being woken up again and again.

We are looking for 2 extra tandems to complete a team. 6 to 6 1/2 hours. DM me if you're interested.. Michael

just put a new one in?

Octalink BB. I have found a hubber who seems to have a few of them around - I'll let you know if he has a spare. To replace them you will need: 1. a crank extractor to get the crank arms off the BB. IceToolz Crank Extractor, Octalink/ISIS, #04D2 | IceToolz.eu 2. a BB tool to unscrew the BB from the shell https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-bb-tool-32mm-shimano-isis-drive-11b3/a5570 If you don't have the tools then rather let your lbs do it for you.

try this procedire: shift to smallest sprocket on the rear wind in the cable tensioner all the way release cable completely from RD check alignment in the smallest sprocket. adjust using only the limit screw reattach cable set cable tension so that the first upshift is perfect check the rest of them - should be 100%. small further tension adjustment if not

Go visit your LBS and see if they have something in their parts bin?