100Tours

Try cycle lab second hand sales - they bought my (early model) diverge. Spesh is a good brand and so it's easily traded. Once you know their offer you can decide whether you want quick cash or to try for a bit more on the hub

bikemarket.co.za - they will rent you one

road cleats will give you a larger contact patch on the pedal. this means better power transfer and less cleat pressure. definitely worth it if you want to go faster or more hours.

use a VPN like express vpn with location in the uk Then look for 'uci cyclocross live' on youtube

My experience - without the battery it's just a bike. so you're OK on that front. You usually have to pay a bike bag fee. This was about USD100 last time I travelled. so it's that or more. you can ask the airline. What are you planning on doing about the battery? my understanding is that you can't take a full size battery even as hand luggage,

Rapha Day 4 - Lollipop Cradle | 99.3 km Cycling Route on Strava

Download the e-tube software - plug the charger into the USB port on your laptop and run the diagnostic. Chances are it is a connection issue. and this will help you find a loose wire.

What LCN said.., But - It looks like the HR spike follows your exertion, perhaps after you have stopped pedaling - like climbing some huge hill and then stopping and collapsing over the handlebars at the top. Riding like that is a bad idea because your legs are doing lots of work to move blood around your body while you are exerting yourself, but when you stop suddenly then your heart has to take on the strain of the extra pumping work, your breathing races and you feel light-headed. Rather ease off gracefully over the top of the hill or as you finish the interval. I'm looking for an Eskom loadshedding analogy here when some saboteur takes Duvha your legs offline and suddenly your brain gets load-shed of any more oxygen.

I've got one. let me know

The issue with carbon in my opinion is the risk of loosening of the pivot points in the carbon matrix - not the strength of the frames per se. I have scrapped 2 because the bearings eventually ground out the carbon frame around the bearing race, and I didn't try to repair. Strength wise, carbon is pretty robust and almost always repairable. I have seen cracks on Titanium, aluminium, etc. but only the carbon one is properly repairable.

I try to use a 'sum of the parts' approach. E.g. - is the groupset 9s, 10s, 11s - a good condition 11s groupset is worth R8k to R10k, Di2 is worth R15-20k, 9s is worth maybe R2k - Are the wheels stock or high-end. R2k-3k for stock wheelset, R10k+ for carbon - is the frame particularly special. Aluminium - maybe R2k - R4k, Carbon R10k or more. - are there any special/costly components on the bike (carbon saddle, integrated bars, etc.). Carbon seat +R1k, Integrated carbon bars + R4k-R5k Then have a look at how this compares to the other as on the hub and see if it feels about right.

That is useful 👏 I have tended to use Chorus 11s chains on pretty much everything, with good results, until the Rand took a nosedive. Black Friday this year has brought a whole lot of KMC chains into my life at basement prices (25-30% of the cost of Campy options) so I guess I will see how they perform. replaced 6 chains and 1 cassette in one go last week. my maintenance budget is blown.

That doesn't seem accurate? if you draw a straight line between 2 non-adjacent teeth on a chainring then that would be a shorter distance than the line drawn along the curve. So you would pull less chain for the same leg movement through the part of the stroke where the teeth on the oval ring lie inside of the teeth on a circular ring. Not commenting on the marketing hype, but your geometry argument is wrong.

Assuming the power meter measures input power (?) then changing rings won't make a difference - they're still the same legs. What ovals are meant to do is to reduce the effective gear size in the dead spot. This means that the smaller muscles that you're using to get the crank through the dead spot have an easier job to do, and therefore less fatigue.

Personally: 34t for a 29er, 36t if you're on a 650B If you have a 12s groupset then you can go up a size. i.e. 36t on a 29er. I like my ovals - they will make a difference if you are a seated climber, otherwise round is also perfectly good.

PM'ed you

I have seen a BB reducer that steps the BB down from the 30mm standard to Shimano's 24mm spindles, so that's a yes, similar for the headset - yes you can get a reducer. I have one if you like

Pudo for the win - R50 on most items. But yeah sometimes it takes a day to get there. just be clear about it with they buyer

Buy this brake - swap out caliper. Mountain Bike Front Brake | Bike Hub

Cinturato's. they are the bomb. 45mm, either H or M depending on your riding style. SA gravel is tough on those other tyres.

Hi Vish - you're should not be setting the saddle tip in the same place for the 2 saddles, more you are hoping to get the middle of the saddles aligned (so that your ass is in the same place). the power saddle should have the front of the saddle pretty much horizontal with the back of the saddle siting slightly higher I think.

interesting - weight distribution on the big bike is probably more like 60:40, and I have no idea how to class Joburg's roads (poor pavement/chipseal?), but I'm running tubeless up front to deal partly with snakebite risk on road holes. So silca.cc is about 0.5bar above where I'm running them for both tyres

Interesting - I'm running my front (GP5000 TL 25mm) at 5 bar on a tandem, so 6 seems high. The rear runs at 7 bar and isn't tubeless because I have found it starts giving issues at this pressure.

Assuming that's the 9170.. 1. check the bleed screw and o-ring. I have often managed to get these seated badly / cross threaded. Should be an easy fix to get it sitting right if this is the issue. 2. check the hydraulic line. again if this is where it is leaking it is reasonably easy to fit a new olive and insert to reapir this 3. You're on your own and likely looking for a replacement

Just remember to keep the video running - the right time to start recording is after the brandy but before you go out to the car for the jack. On the issue of reach and rise have a look for the RAD sizing method on youtube. Just an extra reference point on getting the bars positioned right.