100Tours

I have an ultrasonic bike cleaner I'd like to sell you

I've not tried Orange seal, but personally - Stans is too thin for road pressures and tyre thicknesses. it just runs out and gets everything dirty. Something with particles/lumps is required to help plug the hole. I have been using the approx. R100 bright green 'tube' sealant from sportsmans in my road and gravel bike and on the tandem to good effect. Ryder also have a cheap option like this. Seals quickly, doesn't clump up in the tyre. Have done a few '000 k's with this sealant. NB - because this is more slimey and not quite as liquid as Stans it needs a good tyre-rim seal. I use a single layer of electrical tape on top of the hard tubeless tape to create a good seal.

Thanks 👍 At the moment it seems like the buyer gets a message that shipping costs will be added to his offer (they're not), but the help page says you should negotiate shipping directly as part of the purchase price. (with my systems test analyst hat on)

Not sure how you did this, but there is no option to 'get a shipping quote on the bikehub portal' like you've listed above. Shipping costs need to be added to your sales price by the buyer.

sell the old wheel, buy a new rim?

look if it wasn't for Strava I wouldn't have any social media 🤣 I can however tell you a story about a bunch of guys who collected a KOM on an IDT in the back of a bakkie (inevitably a WHITE bakkie).

try MYUs.com for a full range of options (you send it to them in Florida, and then they ship it to you), They should be able to give you a quote based on size and weight. but shipping a bike like that isn't going to be cheap. edit - I don't think its worth it for a tandem at that price point.

Please excuse the lack of bike-appropriate technical language in this description. I'm sure there are proper names for these things. The shift lever has a little tooth/ratchet that engages the actual shift mechanism inside of the lever to shift the gear. The lever bites against the ratchet to shift, moves the gear, the ratchet locks into the new position, and then the lever returns 'free' back to its starting position - ready for another shift. When you down-shift, the 'locked' ratchet releases and drops back into its original position in the smaller gear. This should also put the ratchet back in position against the lever for the next upshift. It sounds like the tooth/ratchet is not consistently re-engaging after your downshift (or you were already in the big ring position, despite the chain being on the small ring). There are 3 potential issues. either wear, dirt or tuning. You can try clean out the lever (soapy water, Q20) and this may improve the shifting. Also depending on the model you can sometimes check that nothing has loosened up in the shifter that is causing it to miss. You should also check that the shift cable is not overtight when in the big ring (the little limit screw may be holding the shift cable in tension when you're in the big ring, and the extra tension may be fouling the release). You can also sometimes fix this issue by false-shifting the downshift lever to help things settle back into position. i'e' the chain moved, but the mechanism didn't quite reset. Alternatively it is wearing out. in this case you are likely looking for a new lever at some stage. I'm not aware of many successful repairs on these. I would do the following: 1. disconnect the FD. check that the lever is shifting nicely on its own. This may reveal the issue - it should shift cleanly and freely. If you need to clean it or fiddle with the shift cable inside this will now be obvious. 2. set the lower limit on the FD with the cable still disconnected. Chain should run cleanly on the small ring in the biggest cog. 3. Reconnect cable and check upshift. Make sure the top limit screw is not too tight to interfere with the shift.

I don't think Marc meant you should buy it from the hospital staff 👨‍⚕️

bought the same one. does the job perfectly, but I have no idea what else any non-cyclist might use it for 😁

Garmin 530 - superb navigation, lots of battery, fantastic Garmin support. Personally I would stay away from touch screens

I can send you the route if you want? some nice riding out there

streaming on SBS (Australian TV)

I've got a 34.9 clamp, 3x front deraileur you can have. And if you find a crank/BB I can probably help with chainrings.

Look up RAD sizing on YouTube an alternative. Interesting approach, and you can take your peace of string with you to the shop to check sizing. You can usually fix leg length issues with seatpost changes, but reach and balance are much more specific.

As a contrary solution - buy a pair of Magura calipers. Work with Shimano (mineral oil) levers, and absolutely no disk rubbing. Magura caliper and disk on a shimano lever makes the best disk brake solution you can find.

few options to get you started: Brauhaus Afrika | 132.2 km Cycling Route on Strava Route Canals | 121.3 km Cycling Route on Strava Ride to Val | 147.7 km Cycling Route on Strava Centurion to loskop | 170.9 km Cycling Route on Strava Great Ride to Parys | 97.6 km Cycling Route on Strava

You should be able to run an IDT on a 12v battery - all you need is a neat little charger: Something like this: 3 Amp: Sherlo Battery Backup Power Supply 12V 3.2Amp+Securi-Prod 12V 7.2AH Battery | Buy Online in South Africa | takealot.com 6 Amp: Sherlo Battery Backup Power Supply 12V 6.4 Amp + Securi-Prod 18 Amp Battery | Buy Online in South Africa | takealot.com

Destination ideas - The Val hotel in Val (valhotel.co.za) The race to the sun route Cradle-Magaliesburg-Rustenburg via Brauhaus am Dam Parys - Deneysville I've got quite a handful of routes if any of those appeal

I love the smoothness of Di2, and synchroshift in particular I like (why hasn't SRAM done something similar?) And running out of battery should hardly ever happen - you get 2000km on a charge, just learn to check the battery level on the head unit from time to time. The problem is longevity. I've got manual groupsets that are 25+ years old, but I doubt you'll be able to maintain electronic gruppos for much more than 10 years - have a look at the first Di2 groupsets where wiring harnesses and batteries just don't exist for them any more. A single component failure may mean your whole groupset is now junk. I'm just waiting for Shimano to update their e-tube wiring to a slightly modified connector - which will start the clock on replacing a number of groupsets.

Garmin will almost always (in my experience) do a 'service exchange' - i.e. take it in, get them to assess it, and they will most likely sell you a new/reconditioned unit at a significant discount. I have had numerous good experiences with this process.

I do too - difference is I've rolled a tyre off the rim before 😅

I was just about to say don't try this with non-tubeless tyres 😗 My approach would be tubeless rim tape topped off with electrical tape orange seal, or even the cheap green tyre sealant from sportsmans BUT, proper tubeless tyres..

Tandems are very accommodating on the back - they have shore rear seat tubes (i.e. can take a range of seatpost lengths), and the stoker mostly just needs to be stable. We ride a L/S cannondale - I'm a 56 frame usually, and my wife is a 48.

I am busy doing the same thing, give or take for shining up spokes you might try scrubbing with aluminium foil and water/coke. I also find that builders 'all metal polysh' does a good job, although its a bit more expensive. the polish works well with a polishing wheel. I also use a polishing wheel on the dremel for the tiny bits, but that too is a pricey exercise. Also re-chroming seems cheap once you have dealt with any surface pitting. The process I have followed here for a chrome fork has been strip chrome (using an electroplating business), then sand/polish with the drill, then back to the platers for new chrome.