EigerSA

How is this for being between a rock and a hard place' date=' my nearest other LBS is Cajees ? you catch my drift? [/quote'] Then consider this a perfect opportunity to learn how to service and repair your own bike! My work has me on short-time and the two closest bikes shops are expensive and don't know much more than I do... so I now do my own work... this weekend I learnt to re-build my wheel... far better than the bike shop would've.

No ways will it be a waste of money! I started on a Oakland and still use it two years later as my commuter bike, I love riding it! It'll be more than adequate for someone starting off and will easily do the job... if she likes it then buy it before she sees something that you'll have to sell a kidney for.

I found out the hard way that not all the spacings are the same, they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer as well as from 8 to 9 to 10 speed cassettes. This may help... http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-fitting-replacing-cassette-sprockets-18234 I'm sure JB will put us right!

Don't go back there, simple as that, the guys there are ether intentionally telling lies in order to boost sales or just don't have a clue what they talking about... either way just don't go back. After 5 months of riding I would a) find a reputable bike shop and have the chain checked and/or b) just replace the chain.

No that's not true at all! You're supposed to check your chain once in a while, and when it's stretched out to a certain point then replace the chain... the idea being you replace the chain before it damages your cassette! Just how much you been riding? To replace your chain after only 5 months of riding sounds dodgy, nevermind the cassette!? Who told you to replace?

Why do you need to buy her a bike? She can't buy her own?

I agree with you, people need to use common sense as well, if you're getting dropped 15min into the ride then the groups too fast/strong for you. I trained by myself quite a bit, but it was only with my 1st race that I realised how slow I was. I think 'pacing' is the real answer here... being able to speed up momentarily is all well and good, but if your average pace is off then you got trouble. Getting into a group that averages at a faster pace then you will automatically force you too work harder and in time and with patience your average pace will speed up as well. EigerSA2009-09-27 10:55:02

Depends on how you training now? You can train all you want, intervals or long distance, but if you training by yourself you'll never be fast enough. Best thing to do is train with others and you'll find yourself working harder to keep up and/or drop them. And if you are training with people but not getting anywhere, try joining a faster group... it's the only way to speed up! My 2c anyway...

You started this yet? Any interesting info or pictures to post? I found the place I ordered my tube-set from, they based in the UK and if you check pricing it is pretty reasonable. Don't let this thread die ok, post any progress! http://www.framebuilding.com/index.htm

You're probably right... thanks anyway

Ummm... not sure, they were supposed to have re-built the wheel... I just had a look at the invoice but it doesn't say what spokes, but they cost about R9 each?

sorry should have said so... it's mtb. And I didn't hit anything or crash or anything, I was out the seat climbing a short but hard little hill...

Last time I heard a 'ping' and the wheel was out, checked it there and then and found a broken spoke. After it came back from lbs, thought everything was fine till this morning. Heard another 'ping' and straight away the tire started rubbing on the chain-stay, only this time I can't find any broken spokes.

Unfortunately I'm in Durban...

For about the 4th time in as many months, my rear wheel has "un-dished" (not sure of the correct terminology there) itself so that every power stroke has the wheel rubbing on the chain-stay. I've taken the bike to two lbs, with the same results from both, the wheel stays straight and true for a while and then invariably on a beautiful biking day, "ping" and the wheel's out again. I'm not taking this wheel back to the bike shop, it's cost me about R2000,00 so far for them to constantly true it, so no more, I'm going to do this myself. But want I want to know is whether it could be a fault of the rim itself, and not the wheel building process? Oh and the last time it happened the lbs re-built the wheel with new stainless steel spokes. Any advice?

Say it isn't so!!! I was also just told Patrick Swayze died... I'm sad.

EigerSA is your newly-appointed KZN agent. Contact him. The course is Saturday and Sunday' date=' but I usually offer a fork service workshop on the preceeding Friday afternoon. It requires taking time off from work. Do KZN people work on Fridays? Is it an issue? It's never an issue in Cape Town. [/quote'] Sent an email off to you. Can't see there being an issue with a Friday, as soon as I get info I will start a Durban thread on the Tech side so keep a look-out. Thanks John

Would you mind pm'ing the details... how many people, how much ect... I'd like to chat to some mates and see what we could put together.

How about one in Durban at some point?

I think thats its just the opposite. Remember longer cranks will lower the pedal. You might have to lower your saddle. But only really if you make larger changes like 170 to 175mm. You may not feel a 2' date='5 mm change as much as the 5mm in the example I've made. I cant help but coming back to a senario of a tall guy and a short guy walking up the stairs. To one of them, taking one step at a time seems more comfortable than the other. The tall guy may feel more comfortable taking two steps with each stride. The tall guy uses more energy taking one step at a time. (short stride with long levers) The short guy uses more energy taking two steps at a time.(long cadence with short levers) [/quote'] Oops... my bad, got confused there for a second... you're right, the seat would have to be lowered! I get what you saying about levers, but that's not the way people cycle, the position of the foot in relation to where the power goes doesn't stay constant at all, it varies depending on terrain or speed, as well as high tired or fresh your legs are ect ect... by dropping your heels slightly while pedaling will do more to change your cadence and power than changing crank length. Also if you want to change your cadence, change gears or pedal faster, you want more power, change gear or pedal harder... having a different length crank is not gonna influence cadence or power. Consider also where the existing length has come from. As far as I'm aware, the crank length came because it was the most comfortable length, not because it offered some sought of improvement to cadence ect... EigerSA2009-09-12 10:08:38

the difference in crank lengths will do nothing except change the fit of your bike. Putting a longer crank on will automatically mean you would have to raise the height of your seat so that you get proper leg extension during the pedal stroke. The 'leverage' and 'cadence' discussion is completely irrelevant simply because you got gears! This type of discussion should be in the fixie thread since they would benefit more from experimenting with crank lengths.

What!? How can the length of the crank make any difference? Cadence has got to do with your personal power... it's gonna make no difference whatsoever what crank length I put on my bike, I'm not going to hit the same cadence as Lance Armstrong (that's where your gears come into play)! The only effect a varying crank will make is help the fit on the bike better for the individual rider, if you feel better with a longer crank, and essentially a longer circumference of stroke, then good for you! You then either be raising or lowering your seat in relation to the crank length. EigerSA2009-09-10 12:27:49

I can't see how crank length would make any real impact on your ability to pedal harder, like longer length having more of a lever effect or something like that, mostly because you got gears! Any benefits from crank length would be so small as to be happily ignored. If anything I would say that crank length just helps in setting up the bike. Since all manufacturers have their own sizing guide, I guess it's just one more thing you could take advantage of in order to perfect your fit... nothing more!