Christopher Brunsdon

Good to hear you got your Wig back Frail.

The Shimano one is the only exception but it also works on the ride, no-ride concept and does not give you an indication of how far your off from no-ride. I thought of getting one but they are so expensive, a could buy 7 Park Tool spoke rulers and pimp-em-up JB style for chain wear measurement.

CRC as they are known on The Hub are considered to be the best: Largest Range; Lowest Prices; Bestest Service; Quickest Delivery But do not order any clothes or helmets as they attract heavy duties (don't forget your going to pay duties on the items). Also check BuyCycle and CWC online before buying from CRC. You might be surprised to see you can get some, but not all, of your items for a better deal locally. I would say your not a Hubber till you've bought from CRC. EDIT: Personally I've made two orders and been on one group order this year alone. Also see if there is not perhaps a group order going on in your region, it makes it easier for newcomers to join in on them. Also delivery is split (if charged) and group orders are done to get free delivery.

Actually that could have been a cool idea, get PPA to rather donate those charity helmets to the kids when you can still influence them.

Awesome. This is what I like to see.

I've got one awesome granny gear

Well I live in Somerset West and we have some hard core uphills on our roads. I just find it ironic that I no longer see road bikes on taking them on, its guys on their MTBs ... I think MTB give you more guts even when just riding on tar as you can easily bunny hop the curb and cut shortcuts through fields. Perhaps its our baggie gear that makes us less wind resistant vs the tight fitting Lycra sausage brigade outfits.

I use a R100 chain. How much are you then paying for your cassete and deore blades then? Also remember that once your chain goes over > 0.75% wear, you start accelerating the wear on your cassette and chain ring and once you hit > 1%, then it gets worse. Also keep in mind your shifting goes for a ball of dung and other problems. I'm talking from experience where my chain went way over 1%, I think it was closer to 2% .... needed a new cassette and chain set and it was way more expensive than just replacing the chain when I should have.

The only exception is > 1% wear on the chain and then you would need to also consider your chainset. I'm also surprised at how even a good LBS will become lazy and rely on the Park Tool chain wear indicator when giving their customers the "best" advice.

Some feedback. WOW this thing works. My shifting is super duper amazing :thumbup: I commute on hectic uphills in the morning and I've had zero problems finding my gears.

Never a Hijack question as this is what The Hub is all about. The answer is NO - your LBS is ripping you a big one. The rule of thumb is 3 chains to the cassette. After that you can safely replace your cassette knowing that you got the most out of it. I would add that your riding style will also be a factor. I use all my gears instead of concentrating on only a few and my cassette will last longer. It well worth learning how to not only correctly measure chain wear but also your cassette wear. Its also easier to measure cassette wear with a new chain.

Those chain checkers are so inaccurate it should be illegal to use them. You need to measure your links with a ruler, old school.

Well a cheap chain is stronger as they don't try to save of weight by reducing the thickness of the metal used on the links. 1000km sounds a bit rough though, 1500km is more the norm on mountain bikes with cheap chains. What are you using to measure chain wear?

Koggelberg Nature Reserve is awesome if you want some of the best Cape nature scenery, no single track but its a must do - Kleinmond.

Same here. I was also experiencing some creaking that was driving me nuts this last week and I was sure it was not my new Crank brother pedals.

Please gentlemen, no porn so early in the week

LOL ... I once did a race with it on and never again. I don't care about the odd looks I get, but the noise that damn thing makes everytime I hit a bump. Everybody looks around to see who in hell is riding a demonically possessed bike

Yes, its my commuter and that stand comes so handy at the office and when loading little Hubber into his bike seat.

Thanks for that post Mampara. I was actually wondering this morning if that might also have been the case and you confirmed it.

Just some feedback from my commute this morning that involved some rather steep uphills, my shifting has never been better than before and it was crisp and clean that I actually stopped a few times to make sure I was in the intended gear, and was each time. My rear derailleur is an OEM Shimano ALTUS so I can without a doubt say that it was no in the head

Just downloaded the app onto a BB Bold (work standby phone) and its much better than Sports Tracker. Very basic and easy to use. Will give it a go tomorrow on my commute as I have the phone till Wednesday morning. I need to upgrade my wife soon and if VC still have the BB Bold offer then I will take the phone and buy the wife another one.

I also read a couple of guys use V-Brake pipe instead of the rollamjig. I think thats also a cool idea but I had no extra pipes to try it out.

Thanks for the advice, was thinking about it myself but will do so in the morning. Also the newer Rollamjigs now use metal washers on the inside which apparently makes them more serviceable and more durable than the original ones (apparently this was a big thing in the past as on one forum the guys where jizzing in their pants about the metal washers)

Actually the ball is just a "bead" that you will find in any children's bead set. I use to do beads and trinkets so I immediately saw it was nothing special, just check your local craft shop and you can easily drill the hole bigger with a dremel or hand drill (use to do it when beading pearls). I read from quiet a few other guys experiences that "DO NOT LOOSE THE BALL" and I nearly did this afternoon

Here you can see I got the length right but I'm still using the old cable, took me less than 2 minutes to trim this way: Now I got my 3rd hand helping me with the proper cable, sadly I had to cut it too short so it was a trick to get right (need to replace the cable): All done and here is a shot from the rear to give you a better idea of how it works: