Mr Mulebar

Go to: http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=61 Tells you what you will need and how to do it.

Most tyre manufacturers have stayed away from road tubeless for a number of reasons. Firstly, there is NO performance advantage over a standard clincher or tubular. Continental have run several tests confirming this. Puncture issue is also moot as new space age breakers such as Vectran virtually eliminate punctures in standard clinchers in any case and if you add sealant to your tubeless tyres to prevent punctures, which does not work at the high pressures run in road tyres then you again are adding to rotational weight. What is the point of road tubeless I ask apart from that the tubeless ready wheels don't need rim tape when running standard tyres?Mr Mulebar2009-06-23 05:04:11

Anatomic with Imported pad, Adidas or Endura FS260 Pro. Incidently MBR Magazine rated the FS260 Pro Short higher than Assos S5. Concluded that the quality and comfort were on par and you could by 4 pairs of the Endura shorts for the price of the Assos ones. No brainer!!

I use both, definitely prefer fingerless on really hot days and never found it to be a problem on the odd wipe out

Most bike shops stock it I think? I get mine from Epic Bike Shop in Plumstead

The same features are available on the new SLX rapidfire shifters for less money

Southern Suburbs, Bergvliet to be exact

Hi Guys, My house got broken into yesterday morning, and the bastards ran off with my XT wheelset!! The wheels are fitted with XTR 970 rotors Continental Vapor tyre on the front and Continental Edge Tyre on the rear, XT Cassette fitted as well. Keep your eyes peeled please if you are in Cape Town

Elite pioneered the gel roller and having used it, it is excellent. Tacx have only just introduced it so who knows?

Did you get the SP41 outer cable? The inside is greased so shifts smoother for longer If you didn't a few drops of Finishline XC Wet, Pro lube or similiar, needs to be a bit thick and wet dripped into the inner does the same trick.

Hi Fire, I worked for shimano for 5 years in the UK. Although it is possible to run the new shifters with older shimano components it is by no means recommended. The shifting will not be as smooth and quick and because of the slightly different pull ratio the setup will be more susceptible to cable tension issues. I personally still run 7800 Dura Ace and have to say that the only real reason to upgrade to 7900 are the brakes, the stopping power is eye popping!! But again these require a complete upgrade

Then yep M751 is the correct one

Have you ran a scan from your unit to acquire the strap since changing the battery?

More education for dummies...Is the correct RD for what we are talking about...http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=9735 ? YES Sorry to burst your bubble mate but RD M751 is a conventional Rear mech ie not Rapid Rise, you need to look for RDM750 or RDM760 if you want XT and RDM960 or RDM970 if you want XTR.

Have you tried changing the battery in the strap?

If you ride regularly in the winter you can't beat the Shimano Gore-Tex winter boot! Toasty Toes :-)

You can't go wrong with DT Swiss, the precision stainless bearings last forever, even in the UK! The other bonus with the DT Swiss set is that it is marginally lighter than the others and can easily be repaired or rebuilt by any bike shop anywhere in the world as it is made up with stock components.

Hi, I take it you mean 160mm rotor? First question; it shouldn't matter but, is the adapter a genuine shimano adapter or a 3rd party adapter? In my experience some cheap 3rd party adapters etc are seldom manufactured to IS specs.

Distance is not the best way to gauge chain wear.If you really want to run a couple of chains on a cassette before changing cassette as well buy a PARKTOOL Chain Checker and replace chain accordingly. Best way to do it!

If the noise only occurs when putting a side load on the wheels then it is definitely an issue with the spokes. Can't seem to remember if the spokes touch each other where they cross? Try dropping some wax lube on the spoke ends that slot into the hub and into the spoke nipples, if the noise still persists then it will be from where the spokes touch each other (if they do

The 2 are not cross compatible as they work on different frequencies. The best option for triathlons etc is the Garmin Forerunner 305

It can also be loose spokes.

SRAM and SHIMANO use the same freehub type so you won't have to change wheels/freehubs if you do change

Oops just saw that it is a 10 spd Ultegra Front mech. You can use it but as the cage on a 10spd mech is narrower to accommodate narrower 10 spd chain you will suffer with chain rub when in the middle ring.