Titanium Rocket

IdeJongh - you may hit a brick wall trying to get Mavic wheels via CRC, if you are ordering from SA. It specifically says they will not ship Mavic products to customers outside of the EU...at least it did when I tried to get some CrossMark SL's last year. Be interested to hear if you experience otherwise...maybe this has changed?

I used Ergon grips for a while, until I worked out they were the cause of considerable discomfort. I have small hands, and found the Ergon grips were preventing ideal reach/control of the shifter/brake lever (dual control Shimano). On long downhills with fingers on the lever for protracted periods, there was all sorts of pain and discomfort. Changed back to conventional skinny-type grips, and problem disappeared, plus far better handling and confidence on the technical stuff.

I know that there is no such thing as "the best MTB chain". Same as lubes and tryes - these are very personal and therefore highly subjective. I only use XTR chains, currently very well-priced on CRC at R193 each without VAT, if you buy a pack of 3. But my experience is that if you don't lube them well and keep them properly clean, they just don't last. But that applies to ANY chain - so which one is "less worse?" For those hubbers who regularly buy from CRC, let's have some advice on chains. What about those other brands like Wipperman etc? JB - are there any conclusive comparative tests that have been conducted on different brands and grades of MTB chains?

Further to Morewood Kid and Techguy's posts above, I have just changed an XTR centrlock rotor where 2 of the rivets and worked loose. You cannot believe the shudder and howling before I discovered this...frightening! It was 3 years old with plenty of work to its credit, although I am by no means heavy beast. I put on a new rotor and silence is golden, even with the old 50% worn sintered pads. Amazing. Plus the damned brakes work with vigour once again.....!!

Thank you JB and others, let's consider this thread closed now. There is no solution - QED.

Maybe this is a totally dumb question, but why the hell hasn't someone designed a way to retract the pads properly, and end this source of anguish? Whenever I hear this rubbing, I develop a panic attack about that friction sucking away valuable energy....may as well ride a 29er.

Thanks for your comments everybody. Relieved to learn that I am not unique in this problem. Was beginning to think I am a pedantic young fart.

OPC - can't believe that pissy little spring really forces the pads apart....?? It takes considerable effort with a strong plastic goodie like a tyre lever to do this. Those little springs are really just to position the pad firmly aginst the piston surface. Anyway thanks, but I have already tried new springs. Alas, no difference.

1. No, the state of the pads doesn't seem to be an issue. 2. Not really excessive drag, really just touches the rotors as certain points during the revolution. But it should never touch, that's my point. 3. Can't really remember if it was like this from new. Only know it's really pissing me off big time right now! 4. The kit is now 3 years old. Do hydraulic brake systems "wear out"? Can they lose their ability to effectively retract the pistons? Some sort of "wear" in that complex mechanism at the exit inside the reservoir?

Can any of you technical wizards help please: <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I have a dual control <?: prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />XTR setup. No matter what I do, the pads are always touching the rotors to some extent. Very rarely do the wheels rotate without touching. At least once a month, I remove the pads, squeeze out the pistons, clean the piston surfaces and lube. I have brand new (un-bent) rotors. I have replaced the hydraulic fluid and re-bled them?..but nothing seems to make the pistons retreat enough. Are the clearances are just so fine that it?s a permanenet problem? I reckon they need another 0.25 mm clearance either side to avoid touching the rotor entirely. I Is this normal? Anyone got any bright ideas? Do other brands have this problem?

You fellas shouldn't squeal so loudly. The late entry fee for the Midmar Mile yesterday was R220.......for a 32 minute swim...!!

I have had experience with both M966 and M975 dual control shifters. Have been running the new ones for almost 3 years, and I consider myself a high-mileage rider. Never had problems myself, never had to replace either, but I have mates who've had dramas. To answer your question, they are much better than the old series, in my experience. Will the new XTR due at the end of this year include an upgrade of the dual control shifters? Perhaps do some research, may be worthwhile to wait a bit?

I know you are talking SLX here, but I must disagree with GoLefty's earlier post: The XTR M970 crank no longer comes with the special installation tool. I have bought 4 XTR cranks from CRC in the last 3 years. The first one in early 2008 came with the tool plus BB. But since then NO TOOL; buy it separately for +/- R300! They've also stopped sending the crankset in the OE box; now just wrapped in plastic. One of the arms was badly scuffed last time.

Must agree with you guys. The MyRace site must be one of the most pathetically designed interactive websites I have ever encountered. The webdesigner needs his arse kicked, and so does CSA for the way the registrations have been managed this year. CSA has gone backwards on this one, after all the good work Greg Till put in place during his tenure as CSA boss.

Just my 2 cents worth on the Ergo grips. I used them for about two years, and always found myself to be below average on the technical stuff. No confidence, twitchy on descents, panic for ruts and ditches, hands got tired on long descents, etc. A mate suggested I should try conventional grips; switched to some Bontrager high density foam jobs, 32 mm diameter. What an amazing transformation to my technical riding, within one month I found heaven in terms of tech MTB'ing. So take heed: Ergo-type grips may affect your tech riding skills if you have smallish hands.

I used a USE Shokpost for a good few years on a titanium hardtail. I adjusted the tension setting quite tight, so it gave about 25 mm travel, just enough to take the kick out of the bumps. Certainly worked, but at +/- 450 g it is quite heavy.... So for last year's Epic, I went back to a standard scandium seatpost. Changed my brand of UST tyres to ones with a tougher sidewall so I could run them a bit softer. Sweet, and I have never missed the Shokpost... I think you have to try one out, and see if it works for you. They're certainly not a perfect solution for all people.

I have a Cane Creek S6 non-integrated headset, and there are Giant bearings which fit perfectly, at about R160 for a pair. The genuine Cane Creek set costs >R350, but they do last way longer. Have just checked in my workshop, and they are not from the same manufacturer.

Thanks Edman, some obvious omissions. Didn't think of carrying the GPS at the same time.

Can some of you boffin hubbers check the logic below to accurately calibrate the distance measurement on a bike computer? Here is the method, using some very hypothetical figures: <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> 1. Measure the wheel circumference as accurately as possible 3 times (with a fabric tape or along the ground), calculate the average, say 2.865 m 2. Enter this into bike computer 3. Ride a straight, flat route of about 20 km, record distance on bike computer, say 21.2 km 4. Now measure exactly the same route with a <?: prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />GPS (in car, or on bike) and record, say 19.9 km 5. To calculate exact wheel circumference: a. wheel did 21200/2.865 = 7399.65 revolutions along the route b. correct wheel circumference should be = 19900/7399.65 = 2.689 m 6. Enter 2.689 m into the bike computer 7. DONE.

Great debate guys; I'm now convinced I don't need to buy that 29er since I am small. One last post: some hubbers like JB have mentioned marketing in their submissions. Are the other boffins above not underestimating the power of marketing in this 29er discussion? It plays a hugely influential role between scientists and their hard facts at one end, and consumers with their subjective opinions at the other. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Marketing is a necessary process that ?converts science into sales?. If the scientific evidence in favour of 29? wheels is fundamentally thin (as it appears to be), by the time it reaches the consumer having gone through the marketing process, it can emerge totally ambiguous. Is the whole 29er initiative not a result of a highly competitive industry where the marketing budget is bigger than the R&D budget? Beware of the power of marketing; its function is to extract money from the ill-informed consumer. Rather sort your mind and body out first, and only then challenge the diameter of your wheels. Don?t forget someone once said ?It?s not about the bike.?

Try: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/ Self-taught myself off this site some time ago. I see it has just been updated, just choose the relevant model and click ahead.

Hell hath no fury like JB on a pet-hate bike topic. (Remember his diatribe on the poor Park Tool chain measuring device?wow.) <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> This time sir, I?m not sure you?ve got it all right. Do some Google time and research the physical properties and characteristics of titanium alloys versus traditional aluminium alloys, for application in bike frame construction. There are some very credible references there that contest some of the assertions you make, based on fact and not opinion. In the latest What Mountain Bike magazine, 2 out of 3 of their top-rated hardtails (in the >?3000 category) are titanium, and 1 out of 3 of their top-rated long fork hardtails is titanium. In a recent copy (trying to find it?), they reviewed one particular titanium bike and suggested that it could be the best hardtail they have ever tested. These guys have tested hundreds of bikes in the last decade; they are objective and have their integrity to protect, with nothing to gain from biased or subjective opinions. You are of course entitled to your view, but your statement that titanium ??is wholly unsuitable and inappropriate for any bike frame?? is as thin as the marketing department hype that you also reprimand. I trust then, that you support the view that the same marketing bullsh*t is largely responsible for fads like dual suspension and 29? wheels? The benefits of these technologies are promoted more on huge marketing budgets, than proven scientific fact. As for me, I have a titanium hardtail that I bought in <?: prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Beijing 6 years ago. It has done 34 000 km to date, including 3 Cape Epics and all the supporting training. Superb craftmanship, no cracks in 6 years, I love the ride as do most of my mates, and no reason to consider changing it for some other bling junk. No malice intended JB; it?s good to have so many opinions and healthy debate on this forum. And after all, someone once said ?It?s not about the bike??

Now been using a Gobi for about 5 years now, basically since they entered the market. When my original model started sagging (not broken, now on kid's bike), I replaced it with the new Gobi XM is more rigid and seems better built. The cover peeled off the XM within 2 weeks; it was replaced by my LBS, no quibbles. Had this one for >2 years now, including 2 Epics. Definitely the most predominant saddle at the Epic.

I don?t want to add this onto the mega-thread about BB?s, but can anyone help with these questions:<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> 1. What are the exact codes for the bearings in an XTR Shimano Hollowtech II BB? (Seems they are different to XT and LX). 2. Are Endura bearings really worth the price? Do they give you double the life of FAG or SKF? 3. Just opened an XTR BB this weekend. One side of the bearing is sealed, the other is open. Is this to apply more / new grease, yet it says clearly ?do not disassemble?.? So why not have both sides sealed? Why does the open side face outwards from the cup, most exposed to all the gunk and crap?

Have used CRC at least once a year for the last 4 years, and have never avoided VAT. Usually takes 6 or 7 working days to SA. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Really excellent with their returns policy. I posted back a pair of carbon bars once just because they looked ***; a few days later got an SMS from the bank, CRC passed a credit for the original amount, no deductions. When you receive your order, check the items against the manifest carefully. I have experienced the odd shortage. Once the crank fixing bolt had was omitted from an XTR crank. They made good the oversight though, but a pain having to chase. Another time they sent a Shimano chain pin instead of a SRAM Quick Link. Too small to fuss about, so I just left it.