Cyclocross

Anyone got any experience with Gusset ss sprocket? Despite them saying (and CRC) that they are fine for 9 speed chains, I am having problems with a 17t and both a not-new-XTR and brand new HG73 chain, where under pedal pressure, the chain doesn't engage properly and skips. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17775 Chain line is nearly perfectly straight, with Fireye Spur tensioner assisting too. Chainring is 34t middleburn with no worn teeth which has been working fine on my Reynold tubed ss. Would be using a Connex Wipperman 708 (slightly wider) chain already if CRC had not lost the joining link. Once installed I will know if it's chain width that's the problem. So anyone used a Gusset sprocket? I saw a 16t for sale some months ago and would be interested in any experiences with them. Frustrating.

In my opinion they are a victim of their own success. That many race wins comes from having quality (i.e. expensive) riders and depth (i.e. lots of them). They have a womens team too, all of which needed sponsors money to continue. Value proposition may still be good in terms of numbers of hours of international air time achieved as quoted in Cyclingnews article, but it may just be too expensive in the current economic climate (and that was before yesterday's bloodbath on stock exchanges around the world). Its similar to F1 where the uber teams dwarf the minnows in terms of budget and performance, but at a cost.

No, I'm going the other way (older XTR IS mount caliper) to newer SID fork with post mount. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13735 Was just wondering if it could be done while keeping the 160mm size disk. Looks like 180mm stopping power is in my horoscope.

Did you mean post-to-IS? i.e. post mount caliper to IS mount frame? Reason for question - been looking for adaptor to go IS (caliper) to post mount (fork) without needing to upsize rotor to 180mm, but doesn't seem to exist. 1.Tell me I'm wrong and I'll be happy (please send me detail of adaptor). 2.Tell me I'm wrong and you got the elusive part from Cajees and I'll be amazed (but still happy).

PM sent BB.

Cool, just following up on a local option, failing which I will give you a shout.

Thanks BB. Does your adaptor come with a complimentary 180mm rotor (6 bolt)?

1 x Hope adapter image attached. Shimano doc too big to upload, but available at: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BR/EV-BR-M965-F-2148E_v1_m56577569830609096.pdf[/size]

It seemed simpler in my head! I guess what I'm asking is whether anyone knows whether item 32 in the attached shimano diagram can be sourced for a 160mm rotor, or whether I'm going to need to upgrade to 180ish size rotor for which suitable adaptors are available. (Chain has Hope version). "Hope mount adaptor to mount a 51mm international standard caliper (i.e. Hope, Formula, etc) to a 74mm post mount fork (i.e. Manitou) with a 20mm increase in disc size".

Anyone had any luck fitting an IS (i.e.side mount )standard disk brake caliper (XTR BR-M965F) to a fork with Post Mounts? Disk size is 160mm. After swopping forks between bikes to get the longer travel on the FS, I have tried various options (Shimano & Brake Authority as well as shiny red version by KCNC) without success. Is it possible to do this while retaining the 160mm disk, or could it be that the only way to do this is to upgrade to a 180/183/185mm disk for which suitable adaptors exist?

I recently made use of a version of JB's recipe and it worked perfectly. Used (in reverse order) 2 x thumb-screws from my Thule bike carrier clamps as the nuts on each end of a length of prescribed threaded rod, followed by the large washers with small hole to spread load, and with sections of drilled pine plank(about 30cm x 8cm x 2cm) compressing directly onto the upper and lower bearings, with headtube in the middle. The leverage afforded by the two sections of timber (with holes/contact points offset to one side rather than centred) allowed me to precisely and independently align the upper and lower bearings while tightening (using fingers for the Thule thumbscrews rather than spanners & nuts to effect the compression), to ensure they went in straight. Also lightly coated the external contact surfaces of the bearings/headtube with grease to assist.

Monthly. Last Friday of each month. 5pm from the MM stadium precinct (Nino's/Posh VA area by the fountains). Left all my carbon at home and had a blast on Reynolds 631 tubeset.

Photo of some of Fri night's bmx bandits (post ride, pre-beer). http://twitpic.com/5g86l3 Thanks to Brandon & Co for arranging.

Only got to watch the final stage last night on the PVR. Amused by Uncle Phil's rambling and cussin' at the very start of the broadcast when the mike was on without his knowledge.

Much happier with spindle just behind ball of foot. Previously was too much "toe down" through pedal stroke, now foot is flatter (occasionally heel down) and able to draw on bigger muscle groups. Also required me to drop my saddle heights fractionally to compensate which is something to consider if changing cleat position.

It's worth taking a small hex key to tighten the tension on the pedals (yes Shimano cleats are perfect) to limit full sprint disasters with a foot coming out. The pedals tend to be set up quite loose and (too) easy to unclip. Also not worth using high end shoes with carbon soles as these will get trashed by the pedals. Use a cheap and cheerful pair for spinning.

Try lubing the cleat - pedal interfaces. If very "dry", can make uncleating more difficult.

Watching the clip I noticed a noise I hadn't heard before. Oh...quality commentary by someone who knows the riders by sight, their teams and has done research before doing the commentary you say. Don't the SS guys do that? No I guess not.

Probably because Gateway is one of the sponsors.

Seeing as we're talking numbers, I really liked his 950g (per set) DT Swiss carbon tubbies (XRC950T's) with 50mm diameter Dugast rubber. Noted also that Scott Swisspower's 29ers were wearing narrower Dugasts than their 26" bikes (possibly to offset the weight of the heavier wheels?)

Set rebound too quick and fork can become pogo-stick-like with consequent loss of wheel to earth contact and hence control. Set it too slow and shock will not have enough time to extend before next hit, leaving it in compressed state and removing ability of shock to absorb bumps, with resultant loss of control as shock becomes "rigid" in compressed state. I think that correct rebound settings can be more important to get right than air pressure (assuming pressure is in ballpark in relation to rider weight) as minor adjustments can have a major effect on their ability to keep wheel/s in contact with ground and achieve/retain control. I apply basic principle of getting rebound to be as quick as possible without causing loss of control in the process.

Same loosening happened to me on an old Bianchi during a race many years ago after I had had it resprayed. Regular finger re-tightening didn't work and eventually after many stops was loaned a large pair of plumbers vice grips by a parent following the race. It worked but not the lightest tool to carry in your pocket! Permanent fix was to boot the old cup and cone bb and replace it with a cartridge bb which came pre-loaded with locktite on the threads.

Both versions of Monday's Paris Nice stage which I PVR'd ended within the last two km's so had to go to cyclingnews.com to get the scoop on the outcome of the sprint!

I've put out word through the Precinct Security company who have 24/7 response vehicles here + landscaping company + builders on site in the area and will let you know if anything turns up. Any further detail regarding exact location where it might have bailed would assist.

Try a touch of lube between your front fork dropouts and the quick release/hub axel contact points. The opposing tension created between you cranking on your bars up a hill and the giroscopic effect of the front wheel, combined with frequent washing with front wheel removed, can cause clicking source which is difficult to pin down. No amount of tightening the qr will resolve this if contact points are "dry". A drop of lube between thumb and forefinger, rub onto each side of each dropout, insert wheel and no more clicking.