Turbobok

I have a Windcutter on the front of my bike. In my opinion, it does stop you better, but at the expense of feel and some shudder. Given the choice, I wouldn't put a Windcutter on again. I use Avid organic pads, and I haven't noticed a difference in pad life, they still last very well. Hope this helps.

Agree with GuyP. I used mtb pedals on both bike types.

Also curious about why so many people ride the SPD pedals. I always used Crank Brothers, and recently bought a set of 520s. I have to admit I am very underwhelmed, twice I've unclipped at inopportune moments (despite having a good amount of tension on the clip in stiffness) and they get clogged if you look at them funny. Suffice to say, I already have a set of Eggbeaters back on, and my problems are gone.

A friend of mine has an XCR, and just about every time it gets wet he has to service it, because it locks up solid. It's become so bad he has bandages around the stanchions as a temporary method of keeping it dry, which seems to work for him - student budget preventing an upgrade! However, I don't understand why braking would cause it to compress rather than putting your weight on it.

I'm in eaxactly the same position, bike really not riding like it used to. Student budget means that 2nd hand spares off the hub are the only feasible option. Takes a while, but it's rewarding, and I've met some great people. I'm not sure belt drive is the solution though. Belt drive, at least on motorcycles, is a big no go for offroad. All it takes is one pebble to get between the rotor and the belt, and that's the end of a belt. I'm not sure if that's the case on bicycles, but I couldn't imagine why not. Just my thoughts.

I've heard that the red grease one gets for rubber parts can be used in brakes, but I would use that as a last resort. Like Mecnic suggests, best method is to use brake fluid to lubricate. Then no chance of contamination, or clogging the machined fluid passages in the caliper.

Ja, good idea Stewie. Also Spray and Cook, perhaps?

I have an Avalanche, and played around with tyres a bit. The bike came standard with Nevegals (2.3 F, 2.1 R) which I was always very happy with, grip and comfort. However, a bad night race knee-deep in mud highlighted the lack of clearance between frame and rear tyre. I have since moved on to 2.1 Small Block 8 at the rear and a 2.1 Nevegal in the front, which I really like. I don't think you can fit a much larger rear tyre than a 2.1, though that depends on manufacturer. I know Conti's are usually significantly smaller than their size would have you believe.

Aluminium is actually quite a thermodynamically unstable metal, and has quite a high potential for corrosion (for a metal, second only to Lithium, but I speak under correction there). Therefore any moisture would provide the necessary means for the corrosion to start. Good point about the possible lack of glue in the middle! I wonder though, Cervelo would surely know this? Was this just a once off mistake - and badly bonded? I wonder what their protection against this is - just the resin? I read somewhere a while back that if the aluminium surface area is larger than that of the carbon, corrosion won't take place. How much larger is has to be and why this is - I don't know, just an interesting aside.

Ja, carbon fibre and aluminium (and many other alloys) react and cause corrosion. To prevent this, the aluminium has to be electrically insulted from the carbon fibre, for example by using a layer of fibre glass or a gel coat. This corrosion is exacerbated by the presence of moisture, which as JB said is present in most BBs. However, the bonding layer used to glue the aluminium tube should have prevented the contact in the first place. Haven't a clue as to what happened to the glue. Maybe it wasn't uniform, and the galvanic corrosion started at a blemish in the bond? Turbobok2010-06-03 05:16:14

Just wanted to chip in, I have a Tora 302 (w/o Poplock) and have had nearly 5000 trouble free kilometers arsing about on it. So while perhaps not the lightest nor the most responsive, it's been a dream for a student budget.

I love them! Perfect for purchase when climbing steep unrideable sections. Wouldn't do without them, or the bar ends on my risers. Out of interest, what is wrong with bar ends and risers?! Makes things a lot more comfortable!

I have the same query, just for a Sigma 2209 cadence and speed sensors. Anyone know?

Pumping them a little harder should solve that problem! I don't think changing the hoops will help much without a little more sky in your tyres.

Oh for a bike like that! Awesome.

I would also like to know! And Cycle Mashatu, where did you find it?

Hi guys, Was doing a little research into what constituted a Cross Step chain, and came across the following: What's in a chain? Makes interesting reading, if you're interested.

Don't be a ponce, ride a hard tail.

Hi there, I am also in the market for new wheels (want to upgrade the stock wheels on my Avalanche Expert). I have been looking for a while now, and my choice is between XT wheelset (WH-M775), or XM819's on XT hubs. I think both should come in comfortably below R4k, and be tubeless to boot!

Some interesting ideas. I just wanted to add my thoughts - and I'm basing this also on experience with MTB, car and motorcycle tyres. Firstly, tyres do have a life span, in terms of age of the rubber. This life span is a result of a number of things ? oxidation by ozone and oxygen in the atmosphere (which affects the rubber to steel bond of the bead), ingress of water weakening the rubber to steel bond, and ongoing vulcanistion of the rubber by sunlight, heat and use of the tyre (compression and decompression with every rotation) which leads to embrittlement of the rubber. However, these mechanisms of aging are slow, and with regular use tread depth is by far the easiest and most accurate method for gauging a tyre?s age. However, if the tyres are older, even in ideal conditions, this is a lot more complicated. I firmly believe though that there is very little to worry about if a tyre is used regularly, and generally only requires replacement when there is no longer any tread depth remaining. A slight aside, I use Kenda Nevegals on my MTB, and from the very first to last time I mounted them, they remained a pain in the backside. I am not sure about how time and oxidation affects the Kevlar to rubber bond in the bead; perhaps someone else has some ideas? Turbobok2009-11-01 06:00:53

I did something very similar to what Bos described on my shifters, and it worked a charm. Amazing the muck that gets in there. Hope you get yours working!

Awesome, thanks for your help.

Thanks for the reply. I have IS mounts on my shock. If I understand you correctly, a 185 front adapter is the same as a 160 rear adapter? The reason for my question is I have found a 203 mm front disk and adapter, and I want to put that on the rear of my bike, and I wondered if there would be any difficulty? From what you have said, it doesn't sound like that's possible.

Hi all, What is the difference between a caliper mount for the front and back? Are they interchangable? I have Juicy 3's and on each of the caliper mounts, it's marked front and rear. I am planning a disk upgrade, and I wondered if there was a significant difference between the two. (I can't just compare them side to side, as I have 185 mm F and 160mm R) Thanks for your help.

Remember to connect the thingamajiggie to the whatsit, and u should be fine...