Ox_Wagon

I have to agree with Big_H. I thinking of getting a small commuter motorcycle again. So I have been window shopping a bit and came to the conclusion that you can get a decent small commuter for less than a mid priced full susser MTB bike. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> There is a lot more R&D in the bike and a LOT more raw material. In short it doesn?t add up. As the old cycling saying goes ?In cycling you pay more to get less? Or maybe it is just mass hysteria.

There is no nitpicking. I would appreciate ANY actions that the CSA will take to make it safer for cyclist on the road irrespective of the discipline.Ox_Wagon2008-09-25 03:48:31

Yes pleeeeeeeeeese.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

Also look at Conti Racing Kings and Mountain kings

Cool pic

Not realy, most of the people do Ironman on converted roadbikes.

A steep angle tri bike would work better for longer distances like Ironman etc but most of us can?t justify a bike that may be used for a maximum of 3 non-draft legal races a year. There is a number of problems in using road bikes as tri-bikes the biggest is that in moving forward, to save the legs for the run, your putting a lot of weight on the front wheel (upsetting the weight distribution between the front and rear wheel). You tend to end up with a twitch ride and it doesn?t help that you trying to stear with your elbows with most of your weight on them. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Tri bikes usually have longer wheelbases, steeper seat tubes, shorter chainstays and tend to steer sluggisher that their road counterpart. This help when you?re in the aero bars. T There is a few manufactures building multi-sport bikes which is a sort of a cross between a road bike and a tri bike, a sort of jack of all trades, master of non. My favorite being the old aluminum Cervelo soloist and no I don?t own one. It has a rotateable seatpost adapter that allows you to run the bike as a road bike and intermediate angle TT/tri-bike. The other option is to look at a more relaxed geometry bike like the Specialized Roubaix that should handle forward weighty distribution better than a criticum inspired road bike that most of us ride in this country Ox_Wagon2008-09-11 10:23:15

What distance Tri do you want to do? <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Here is a nice buy. http://www.bikebay.co.za/Products/ProductProfile.aspx?ProdGuid=205e8ac9-86d3-4789-a1a4-0ac5a5a5b161

Sounds like a software company, who we all know?s, business practice.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Funny my Kona's Mavic rims, free ride models ?nogal?, also have these nice "stretch marks" around the nipples. I ride them until the crack and the replace them with DRC MT17. Luckily there is no proprietary hubs and spokes involved.

There is more?..<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> MTB chain stays widens faster and more to accommodate the larger tire so you will have to check if there is space to install a larger chain ring (clearance problems). As far as I c<?: prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />an remember it was one of the big reasons that everybody moved to the current Compact MTB cranks. Where is all that guys that say only girls ride compacts, they should explain the compact cranks on their MTBs.

I have an old XT, 5 arm, 110 BCD crank that has a 46/38/24 on it. They came out standard with 46/36/24 . I am considering removing the granny and replacing the chainring and then using it as a road crankset. Ox_Wagon2008-09-04 11:02:49

On BB first. It will fit if the cranks use that same BB (Square tape/octalink/isis etc) BUT the MTB BB axel may be wider to accommodate a triple crank set which will increasing the Q-factor.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The BCD determines the smallest chain ring that you can fit. To quote Http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html Campy road = 135 BCD = 39 Shimano road = 130 BCD = 38 Road Compact, MTB STD (old type) = 110BCD = 33 MTB Compact (on all new MTB, 4 arm) = 104 BCD = 32 (29) There is also ?supposed? to be a small difference between the spacing of the chain rings. Shimano recommends that you use their ?special? flatbar shifter instead of normal MTB shifter. http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/catalog/cycle/products/group.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302049903&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181667&bmUID=1220548200443 The 2x9 MTB setup is a relatively old idea(Cannodale's coda cranks etc), but they fit a 29 instead of a 32. 29 are just very hard to find expecialy in ZA. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=30179 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Kits.aspx?ModelID=3345 Ox_Wagon2008-09-04 11:12:28

Different Bolting circle.

According to these guys bigger is always better.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=31848&PN=1 So rather replace your 42 with 52 and your 52 with a 54. PS: There is a link to Sheldown Browns Gear Calculator some where in that link.

Wrong size, I need a 174.9mm crank!

Sorry to say it but the adjustable crank are back!

Yes, it is 110BCD instead of 130BCD for shimano BUT BBB makes a 53 in 110BCD. BCR-32C CompactGear ? Compatible with Campagnolo compact cranksets. Special Features ? 5-arm. ? 7075 T6 alloy. ? 110 BCD. ? Available teeth: 34T, 36T, 38T, 39T, 42T, 48T, 50T, 52T, 53T. http://www.bbbparts.com/

10) Arm warmers with a sleeveless jersey <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> There is nothing stopping you of putting 52 on compact crank.

In light of this brilliant technical explanation on the pros and cons I must admit your right, a standard definitively gives you more street credit so rather go for it.

It is only relevant if your sprinting and for most of us it will be for the XXXX position (Fill in what ever bunch your in), which in my opinion is sad but then again I am not into trying to win the F/G/H etc bunch. If you buy stuff due to peer pressure by all means go ahead buy what ever is in fasion at the moment.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> There is the old 80/20 % thumb rule. Choose the solution that that gives you the best performance 80% of the time. Then ask your how much time your going to spend in the 53-11 and how much time your will be enjoying a closer ration cassette. The rule can also be flipped in the opposite direction in that it does not make sense spending 80% money to get a 20% advantage which a typical crank swap will entail. So if your having problems climbing and already have a std crank it makes sense, money wise, to just swap the cassette. Ox_Wagon2008-09-01 09:31:52

You also get a closer spaced cassette with smaller jumps, which is lighter too. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> If you?re strong you can get your self a corn cob cassette with single tooth jumps. Ok, Ok it jumps two teeth at the end (11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21)??? I also have an old XT crank that uses the 110BCD bolting circle.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Ox_Wagon2008-09-01 08:48:41

Nice design