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I am considering getting a twistgrip, can anyone offer some input on the pros and cons versus the standard shifters ?

R shimano and sram chains completely interchangable - Can u use shimano chains with sram casettes etc?

I have a SRAM X0 2x10 on my Scott Spark Pro. Is there any technical reason why I cant swap out the small blade for an even smaller one, and keep the big blade the same? Currently upfront I have :Sram Carbon S-2210 GXP PF, Carbon crankarm, 38Ax24A T The cassette is a Sram PG 1070, 11-36 T Just in case its relevant: Rear Derailleur Sram X.0 carbon long cage, 20 Speed Front Derailleur Sram X9, DM S3, dual pull

Hi All, Im looking to get a new bike, and right now I am trying to find all my options to work out which i going to be the best bet. Im looking for a trail type bike, so something like Giant Reign/Anthem or Specialized stumpjumper. Something in the Shimano (or SRAM, dont care much) SLX/XT set. Spending somewhere from R25-35K for the bike. Can you guys help with some good options and pro's/cons of the options?

Hi Hubbers, I am finding it very hard to decide what bike to buy. It is finally time to let my Anthem 26er go and get a Anthem 29er. Both Bikes have a similar price so what shall i do personal pros and cons weigh up equally. The advanced anthem is about R1.5k more expensive. Heres the Spec,Both bikes are new Bike 1 2014 Anthem x 29er 1 Ali SL frame Full SLX groupo Xt shadow rear derailer Fox float CTD front and back Bike 2 2013 Anthem Advance 29er (build) Composite/Carbon Frame Sram X5/X7 Groupo (corrected) Avid 3 (corrected) Shifters (only says SRAM) (corrected) Rockshox Reba RL fork, Rockshox rear shock (only rebound adj) (corrected)

My son has a 2013 Spez Hardrock sport 9spd with the basic shimano components. I want to convert it to a twist shifter. Firstly:Can i put a Sram X9 derailleur(initially off my 10 spd bike)on a 9 spd ? Secondly:Can i put Sram XO 9spd twist shifters on and leave the shimano crank and front derailleur on? Would the Sram RD and Twisters be compatible with the shimano FD,crank and cassette? Would there be any issues here that would lead me to spending more on this change?

Apologies if this has been posted before, but I could not find anything when searching. How much better are the new type 2 derailleurs compared to older equivalents, from what I can see the main improvement is the reduction in chainslap via the clutch, but you also have the lockout system to assist with wheel removal. The latter is a nice-to-have, but the clutch sounds like a good feature - how good is it?

I would like to sell my bike, but I don't know for how much I should advertise it. Can you help? It i a 2011 Specialized Stumpjumper comp (Alu) hard tail 29er in very good condition. See attachment. Size - Medium Shifters - SRAM X9 (2012) Front DR - SRAM X7 Rear Dr - SRAM X0 (2012) Brakes - Avid Hydraulic disc Rear rotor disc - SRAM XX (2013) Shock - RS Reba DT Swiss 450 Wheelset What would a fair selling price be? My bike.pdf

I lied, this is the last video of the week. A couple of mates playing a game of bike. It's simple, one person does a trick and the other has to repeat it. If you don't, you get a letter. It carries on until someone spells 'bike'. Click here to view the article

I am trying to educate myself a bit on BB's. So let's just stick to MTB for now. How accurate is the following: 1. There is predominantly 2 types of BB's - Pressfit and screw in (name?) this is specific to your frame. 2. For the types above you get BB30 (Shimano?) and GXP (SRAM?) these are crank specific? Can somebody please clarify this for me? What is the Road bike standards?

http://singletrackworld.com/2014/01/sram-to-begin-licensing-narrowwide-chainrings/ Just read this link and was wondering what the impact would be on Woolftooth etc?

Hi. Anyone know where I can get the best deal on the new Dura Ace 9000 11-speed groupset ? Need the full works; front and rear mechs, shifters, compact crank 50/34, F & R callipers, cassette 11-28, chain, BB and cables. Any opinions on SRAM Red 22 alternative option, how they compare etc ?

Ok, thankfully prices have come down despite the ZAR weakness (albeit more of late). However, there appear to be a few alternatives to the rather expensive SRAM XX1/X01 that r not being advertised. Is an XT groupo at R8k reasonable? There are now Shim clutch options that put a 1x11in reasonable reach. So are the other existing groupo options reasonable?

Can one buy the aluminium bracket between frame and derailer as a loose item? It's on my old 9 speed Sram X9 deriler? Bike shops closed so just wondering where I could get just this part. http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee420/Landy1973/IMG-20140101-00199_zps97c7f46e.jpg

...so after many years are toil, I have finally got the cash together to buy a bike. Now, that sounds all good and well, but I only have R6k to spend. So I've been searching high low, for new and old models. And I managed to find two offers that are well worth looking at. The first is a Momsen AL029 and the second, a GT Timberline 1.0. The Momsen costing R6k and the GT costing R5k. Both are 29ers and both have hydraulic discs. The Momsen has SRAM sets, while the GT has Shimano. Both are 24-Speed. I've decided to go for the GT, purely on price, and based on the reasoning that there is very little difference between the two. Have I made the right decision?

This has probably been posted, but I cannot find it!! Can u use xt cassette with sram chains and visa versa?

Hi guys, Since some time I am looking into the options for a 1x10 conversion and settled for going for the ONEUP 42t on my XT cassette. I would need to buy a new clutch deraillor as well. I think I read most of the XX1 and 1x10 pages and one issue seems to be either accepted or left unresolved: the non-XX1 deraillors are not meant to work with the 42t sprockets. When adjusted to clear the 42t sprocket the offset of the jockey wheel to the other sprockets is quite large and not ideal, leading to a drop in shifting performance. I know that the X01 or XX1 deraillors are supposingly not compatible to any 10spd system but: (if this has been answered elsewhere I missed it. Please forgive me I this case and throw in your experience/knowledge anyway). 1) is a 11spd cassette not the same total width as a 10spd cassette? With a smaller incremental spacing between the sprockets? 2) are the 10spd and 11spd shifters and grip shifters not very similar, just with a different increment on the shifting ratchet mechanism? But actuating the same length of cable over the full range? 3) if 1 and 2 is true then the X01 deraillor should work with a 10spd shifter on a 10spd cassette? 4) Since some of you are already riding 1x10 with various adaptations of 41t or 42t conversions how does the XT Shadow Plus deraillor perform? Now I wouldn't trust any SRAM documentation on the answer to these questions. The only way to find out would be to try it out. Anybody out there tried this? I know that there is the option to just stick to combinations like 34t/36t front with the 36t at the back and toughen up, but this topic should more focus on the technical issue than rider strength. Cheers S

I am busy with a build and I am considering using a single chainblade crank on the front with a 10 speed rear setup. Since Im no expert in mountain bike setups, is this possible?

From Bikerumour: http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/12/13/sram-announces-complete-recall-of-all-road-hydraulic-rim-and-disc-brakes-stop-use-immediately/ UPDATE: SRAM Road Hydraulic Brake Recall – STOP USE IMMEDIATELY On November 4th SRAM identified and announced a technical issue with respect to a narrow production range of its RED 22 and S-700 Hydraulic Road Brakes. At that time, it was described as a performance and safety concern with no reported failures in the field. It has recently come to our attention that during last weekend’s Cyclocross racing in the US, in sub freezing temperatures, several failures were reported. In these conditions the master cylinder seals failed to hold pressure resulting in abrupt loss of brake power, and an inability to stop the bike. These failures are related to product that is outside the originally stated date code range and unrelated to the original failure mode. No injuries have been reported to date. As a result of this new finding, SRAM requests that anyone who has a bike equipped with SRAM Hydraulic Disc or Hydraulic Rim Brakes stop using the bike immediately. All products shipped to date, and currently in the market or in inventory will be recalled.

I am riding a 38/26 crank and 11/36 cassette on my dual suspension bike. What length rear derailleur should I use? SRAM.

I have a Trek Superfly 100AL, which uses a SRAM X7 3x10 groupset. What would the advantage be to upgrade the rear derailleur to a type 2 model with the built in clutch? It uses the normal X7 rear, but finally they have launched the type 2 X7.

2014 Stumpjumper Comp HT R23 799.00 The aluminum Stumpjumper HT Comp 29 features an 80mm-travel RockShox Reba fork with rebound and lockout adjustment and a custom SRAM 2x10 crankset. > M5 fully manipulated alloy HT frame with optimized 29er geometry features a PF30 BB, and PM 140 rear brake for a sleek, responsive and race-ready design > RockShox Reba RL 29 fork with 90mm travel, Solo Air spring and rebound adjust, and a 15mm thru-axle provides premium XC suspension performance w/Lockout and compression adjust > Roval 29 rims mated to Specialized Hi Lo hubs increase wheel stiffness for more confident riding > S-Works Fast Trak 29 2.0", 2Bliss Ready front tire features dual-compound rubber, delivering exceptional speed and traction while minimizing rotating weight > Custom SRAM S-1250 10-speed XC double crankset with 29er-specific gearing, large PF30 bearings, and alloy arms for smooth, efficient power transfer > Formula C1 hydraulic disc brakes provide consistent and reliable stopping power 2014 Crave Pro 29 R21 999.00 The all-new Crave Pro 29 is a competition-inspired aluminum hardtail 29er with a 100mm-travel Fox Evolution fork, Shimano Deore hydraulic disc brakes, and Shimano SLX shifters. > New, fully butted, smooth-welded M4 Premium Aluminum frame is super-lightweight, stiff, and features XC 29er Geometry, integrated headset, tapered headtube for front-end stiffness, plus bridge-less seatstays for compliance over bumps > 100mm-travel FOX Float Evolution Series 29 fork with CTD damper, rebound adjust and tapered steerer tube is lightweight, plush, and tunable to help smooth technical terrain > Specialized Stout SL Disc 29" wheels feature double-wall rims with sealed bearings for lightweight, durable wheels > Custom SRAM 10-speed XC double-ring crankset with 29er gearing and GXP bottom bracket offers lightweight and durable performance paired with Shimano Deore XT Shadow Plus 10-speed rear derailleur for exceptional shifting performance > Shimano Deore hydraulic disc brakes use 180mm front rotor for increased braking power, while 160mm rear rotor keeps weight low. Shimano levers feature lever reach adjustment OR a Scott in that price range or Bergamont ?

Hi guys I ride a Shimano group set bike, my wife is on a Cannondale with SRAM group set. Is there a difference between the shifter cable and housing? Can I use the Shimano Housing and cables on the SRAM shifters (I haven't looked)? G

The story: So I have ridden my bike with my favorite Sram Rival groupset for about 4 months now, and at Die Burger Cycle Tour I wondered why I couldn't shift properly? Had given the bike a good clean and lube the night before and rode it around the driveway before putting it on the bike rack that morning. The issue: The double tap (right hand shifter) took far too much effort to engage and disengage, had to push too hard and had to pull the lever back into place after shifting up gears. Not a smooth clicky click at all. The left shifter wasn't so bad, the right however was terrible. Unfortunately I stressed out and cleaned it before taking any pics. The cause: There was sand. Alot of sand. When I pulled the shifter hood off sand quite literally fell out of it. There was sand caked all over the shifter internals and it was extremely painful to see. Just the thought that I had ridden 97km+ like that made me cringe. I realized that driving from the far South along Beach Road to Stellenbosch was not the choiciest thing to do, as our bikes were sandblasted and nearly pulled off the car and this was part of the result. The solution: I am no bike mechanic, or specialist, but I am proud of the fact that I put my bike together myself with all the bits and pieces I have acquired through the hub. DIY all the way, and visit the LBS's for general parts, consumables and coffee (and the hub for deals ). - I used lamp oil and a thick brush to loosen up the sand and wash some of it out, then blasted the rest out with the compressor and repeated until there was no sand left. - Afterwards, rinsed with water and blasted it dry with the compressor again. - Finally re-lubed as required. If there is any better way to do this, and suggestions for re-lubing shifter internals please do share the knowledge. From now on: When it is windy, I will travel the more inland route. Also, the shifter hoods have a 'mouth' underneath and semi-expose the internals so I'll be sure to check up on these more often. So to all the hubbers out there who have yet to do so, check for sand this summer and happy riding.

I saw today on Cyclingnews.com that some SRAM Red rear derailleurs were recalled. I was expecting X5 and possibly X7 RDs to be recalled, because of the following issue I recently encountered: I got an X5 9spd RD with my MTB. The bike was brand new, unassembled. I aligned the RD hanger with the park alignment tool (after having rebuilt, dished and straightened the rear wheel) and then installed the RD. While installing the RD, I noticed that the body of the RD was quite loose on the pivot which contains the bolt that attaches the RD to the hanger. There was noticeable play and the body of the derailleur was skew on the pivot (see attached photo). I'd never seen that on a RD before, but continued with the installation of cables. When it came time to adjust the low stop screw of the RD (the largest cog on the cassette, closest to the spokes), I aligned the top jockey wheel with the largest cog. To my amazement, the bottom jockey wheel, which was at a similar height to the top wheel since there was no chain installed and the jockey wheel cage was sprung back horizontal, was touching the spokes. If I rotated the jockey wheel cage downwards against the spring, as it would be positioned if a chain was installed, the RD no longer touched the spokes. This suggested that it would work fine with the chain installed and properly tensioned, but should the rider be in the largest cog at the back and the chain comes off the front chain rings, the RD would make contact with the spokes and possibly cause serious damage and injury. Convinced that I must have received a rare dud X5 RD, I went to look at some bikes with X5 RDs at the LBS. There was only one, a Trek, and it had the same play in the pivot. When I contacted the supplier of my bike, he said that he'd noticed that about the X5 RDs, and he very kindly swapped it out for an X7. I couldn't ask for better service than that! The X7 had a noticeably tighter pivot, but it still seemed to have a bit of play. When I installed it, it exhibited the same behaviour (touching spokes when top jockey wheel aligned with large cog), but possibly not as much. Has anyone else noticed this about X5 and X7 RDs? It is easy to check: Change gears to largest cog on cassette. Take the chain off the front chain rings (or take it off altogether), so that the RD jockey cage springs back. Gently turn the rear wheel to check for contact with spokes. Maybe they all need a recall? Or maybe my park hanger alignment tool is broken :-) (not likely, given the simplicity and solid engineering of it).