Palaeodom Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Buying a new set of handlebars but they ned to be cut down a little. Any advice about the cutting process? Any special saws, clamps or wetting agents to stop the carbon splintering?
I-FELT-the-FORCE Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Buying a new set of handlebars but they ned to be cut down a little. Any advice about the cutting process? Any special saws, clamps or wetting agents to stop the carbon splintering? I cut my Carbon Steerer Tube just the other day... a FIRST for me.. and I have NO splintering whatsoever.My tools were pretty "average" to say the least, stuff you can buy at any hardware store....The most important thing being the balde you using.......MUST be 32tpi blade.I bought two clamps, like the below picture and literally, used these as a guide for the blade to go between. DONT put a lot of pressrue on the blade, take your time and move the bars around. Also FINE sandpaper for smoothing the edges off at the end of the cut, concentrate on the inside of the bars... Just my 2c worth .....
Palaeodom Posted March 3, 2011 Author Posted March 3, 2011 Thanks for the advice, I shall go and get the correct stuff. Incidentally did you use some kind of tape to protect the carbon under the brake/shifter clamp?
I-FELT-the-FORCE Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Thanks for the advice, I shall go and get the correct stuff. Incidentally did you use some kind of tape to protect the carbon under the brake/shifter clamp? Hold on..... under the hoods of my STI's??? NO. around where I was putting the clamps to do the cutting? Absolutely I did. Sorry for not mentioning it. I wound some insulation tape / electical tape round the tube, where the clamps would touch the bar. Just PLEASE make sure that you have the correct measurements, otherwise you might end up doing 'throwaway" bars and that is NOT cool.... Mark your measurements in pencil. Use the clamp on the bar (lightly tightened) as a guide to making the mark around the bar. Remove the clamp and do the electrical tape wrap, right next to the pensil marking 9leaving maybe 1mm gap so you can see the pencil mark. Place the two clamps on opposite sides of the marking and start by gently cutting (gently as in pressure). Just keep turning it and you will be fine!!
Face Plant Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 wouldnt a steel pipe cutter work better? i cut my shock steerer with one and it works really well
I-FELT-the-FORCE Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 wouldnt a steel pipe cutter work better? i cut my shock steerer with one and it works really well Just from what I have read, aparently the pipe cutter compresses the carbon and can cause slightly warping or indentation. The pressreu you have to apply to the thing, stretches the threads instead of cutting it when in its natural position. I was going to use the pipe cutter, till I read this. Choice is yours though, cause the pipe cutter would work at the end of the day. DISCLAIMER!!! I am NOT a professional bike mechanic. I have however, NEVER taken my bike in for servicing, and have rebuilt a couple of frames myself. All I know I have learnt through trial and error myself. Please also note, I am pretty hands on....
Face Plant Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 okay after that explanation your way does seem alot better!! great idea using the clamp as a cut guide by the way!!
kosmonooit Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Just the finest tooth blade you can get and also a fine flat file to dress the cut Also one of these are handy if you not practiced in cutting square: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Full/10222.jpg X-Tools Saw Guide
kosmonooit Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 (edited) wouldnt a steel pipe cutter work better? i cut my shock steerer with one and it works really well Pipe cutter is really for soft metals like copper, although it might work its not the right tool for the job. I def. would NOT use it on carbon bars Edited March 3, 2011 by kosmonooit
I-FELT-the-FORCE Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Just the finest tooth blade you can get and also a fine flat file to dress the cut Also one of these are handy if you not practiced in cutting square: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Full/10222.jpg X-Tools Saw Guide THAT is the best tool... the saw guide.... better than using the clamps , I would think a little more pricey though REMEMBER my disclaimer in my post above !! !! !!
ichnusa Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 i would say just leave it... wider is better... certainly more fashionable!
The Drongo Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 wouldnt a steel pipe cutter work better? i cut my shock steerer with one and it works really well NO!
Wyatt Earp Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 wouldnt a steel pipe cutter work better? i cut my shock steerer with one and it works really well You'll wreck it with that. Just the finest tooth blade you can get and also a fine flat file to dress the cut Also one of these are handy if you not practiced in cutting square: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Full/10222.jpg X-Tools Saw GuideWe use exactly that, make sure you get one to accommodate for the correct diameter.The file is not really an option, sandpaper will do the job.
Cycho Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 Do your homework on the specific bars!!!!!! There are certain brands / bars that are not recommended to be cut due to the position of reinforcing for clamping areas etc - cutting means clamps move inwards to a point that might not be reinforced which equals failure and a lot of pain!!!!!
The Drongo Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 Do your homework on the specific bars!!!!!! There are certain brands / bars that are not recommended to be cut due to the position of reinforcing for clamping areas etc - cutting means clamps move inwards to a point that might not be reinforced which equals failure and a lot of pain!!!!! +1
Wyatt Earp Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 Do your homework on the specific bars!!!!!! There are certain brands / bars that are not recommended to be cut due to the position of reinforcing for clamping areas etc - cutting means clamps move inwards to a point that might not be reinforced which equals failure and a lot of pain!!!!!I have had great success with all types of carbon bars, also getting a nice plug for reinforcing goes a long way. http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/product-images-large/specialized-cnc-alloy-bar-end-plugs-pair-42237.jpg
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