Jump to content

MTB Specific: What Tyre Pressures


Theo18

Recommended Posts

So I read through this thread and see the issue of burping and major wipeouts coming up. Why bother with tubeless then?

 

I have read about being able to then run your tyres at lower pressures but then the numbers being put forward on this thread are hardly low numbers. I run these same pressures on my tubes. I have not have any punctures or pinch flats since getting my new bike in Nov last year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 370
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

So I read through this thread and see the issue of burping and major wipeouts coming up. Why bother with tubeless then?

 

I have read about being able to then run your tyres at lower pressures but then the numbers being put forward on this thread are hardly low numbers. I run these same pressures on my tubes. I have not have any punctures or pinch flats since getting my new bike in Nov last year.

Do some research & reading about the benefits of running tubeless, it will enlighten you.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I read through this thread and see the issue of burping and major wipeouts coming up. Why bother with tubeless then?

 

I have read about being able to then run your tyres at lower pressures but then the numbers being put forward on this thread are hardly low numbers. I run these same pressures on my tubes. I have not have any punctures or pinch flats since getting my new bike in Nov last year.

 

maybe once you ride rock gardens/rocky bits really hard, you'll experience sufficient snake bites to either up the pressure, or start wondering if tubeless is the next best thing to sliced bread.

Also, there's the benefit of a lower rolling mass. Always always beneficial.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I read through this thread and see the issue of burping and major wipeouts coming up. Why bother with tubeless then?

 

I have read about being able to then run your tyres at lower pressures but then the numbers being put forward on this thread are hardly low numbers. I run these same pressures on my tubes. I have not have any punctures or pinch flats since getting my new bike in Nov last year.

 

just a q Clint... How much do you weigh? Reason I ask is that for me (at 105kg) 1.6 - 1.8 bar is extremely low, whereas for someone like Capricorn (who weighs more than just 2 cheeseburgers less than me) 1.6-1.8 bar is a reasonably low pressure, but by no means extremely low. So in your case (if you are lighter) then the 1.6-1.8 may be perfect for you, and not seem that low. Whereas I would be burping more than Homer Simpson on a tour of the DUFF factory.

 

Another thing to remember is that with the tubes in the tires, a reading of 1.8 isn't really a true 1.8, as you're reading the air pressure inside the tube itself, which is constricted within the tire and will not exactly follow the contours of the rim & tire. With a tubeless set-up, the air fills the entire tire / rim setup, and the re are no gaps in sight. Therefore the tubeless set-up has a higher volume of air, even though the air pressure is reading the same (ceteris paribus, of course) This also helps with the absorption of impact, and makes the ride feel softer to boot (the air has more space inside in which to move, and is not constrained within the tube, which has very limited movement)

 

Anyway... following on from Cap's post above, the extra volume really helps the tire cope with big hits, and gnarly stuff. Yes, there may be burping, but I far prefer burping to a snakebike (in both senses of the words :-P )

 

So for me, a good setup is approx 1.8 - 2.2, 'cos I'm a big boytjie. For you, it may be 1.4-1.6; 1.6-1.8 etc etc. But I guarantee you this - the quality of ride - as well as grip - on a tubeless setup is just that much better than running a tubed setup.

Edited by cptmayhem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

mayhem: did u reveal to them the size of those two burgers? hint to everyone: one half of one burger will fill the big hole up in Kimberley.*nods*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mayhem: did u reveal to them the size of those two burgers? hint to everyone: one half of one burger will fill the big hole up in Kimberley.*nods*

 

bastard. :cursing: :-P

 

rofl... Yeah. They are big cheeseburgers. With bacon. And onions. And lettuce / tomato.

 

But they make a helluva difference to how hard I have to run the tires...

Edited by cptmayhem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

On this tubeless thing, can somebody please explain to me if "tubeless ready" is the same as UST?

You can buy an HD ready TV, but it really isnt an HD TV, is "tubeless ready" the same thing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UST - bead and carcass (airtight, non-porous --> heavy) fully compliant with the standard. Does not require sealant, but often used by riders to provide puncture protection.

TLR - only the bead is UST compliant, but the carcass is not ito leaktightness. This makes TLR tyres a bit lighter than fully UST compliant rubber. TLR requires sealant to prevent air leaking through the carcass.

Edited by Capricorn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a bunch, now I see :thumbup:

So then is it really a good idea to convert TLR's?

Does the sealant effect the performance of the tire (balance mostly), and does the sealant give any puncture protection?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no balance issues, no discernible weight issues, which will decrease over time any way due to punctures. With UST, u have a higher weight to begin with, and still use sealant to provide puncture mitigation. On balance of all things weighty, TRL is the best option.

 

I've used both TLR and UST DH rubber with zero issues other than the latter making my whip a bit heavier. But that's more due to the added rubber than the bit of sealant used.

 

Go for it: u wont be making a mistake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a bunch, now I see :thumbup:

So then is it really a good idea to convert TLR's?

Does the sealant effect the performance of the tire (balance mostly), and does the sealant give any puncture protection?

 

It's worth a try converting it. I had Schwalbe Racing Ralph Evo TLR on, no problems regarding burping, sidewalls just crap. If you should replace them then go for the "Snake SKin" version.

 

I've once had Conti Mountain King Foldable on, later on the Stans couldn't even seal the sidewalls.

 

I'm a BIG fan of Maxxis, it is very strong tyres IMHO, heck I even ride a normal Aspen Foldable at the back. The Ikon Exception Exo Protection is a great weight/strength combo. The thing is you can't ride them to soft = if you are going over a root or a rock it should not knock through to the rim. You won't have problems of them burping then.

 

Maxxis Lust = Bulletproof

 

My brother had just put on Continental Race King Protection, Seems very nice, same tipe of sidewall as Maxxis Exo Protection. Will see you they keep up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, one last question.

If you get a flat with tubeless, how do you fix it, do you have to carry sealant with you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, one last question.

If you get a flat with tubeless, how do you fix it, do you have to carry sealant with you?

 

it depends on the nature of the beast, but in general, sealant only works for the smallest of gashes/cuts, and most 'standard', hole-type punctures (nails, needles, thorns etc).

All that's required once the hole seals, is to pump your tyre up again. I've ridden for months on one charge of sealant. You can hear it sloshing about if you shake the wheel. If you cant hear it, it probably needs topping up again. Unless u doing stage racing and are your own mechanic, you will not need to carry around a bottle of sealant. it's very small to begin with, but not necessary.

 

Tubeless + sealant has made me irresponsible in some ways, as I've ridden miles and miles without even a pump. Yeah, it's that good at inspiring confidence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I weigh 62kg's and run the following setup: Front -> Specialized The Captain 26x2.0, Rear -> Specialized Fast Trak LK.

 

I usually pump my tires up in the 2.5 to 3.0 PSI range. I've yet to burp a tyre or have a puncture out on a trail that required additional inflating. There have been numerous devil thorns (the nemesis of our tubes) embedded in my tyres, but simply continued riding with them in. I've even removed a few whilst stopped on a ride, only to have the Stans sealant and the 2Bliss tyres eat up the hole from the thorn with minimal if any air pressure lost.

 

I'm definitely going to start experimenting with lower pressures on my next ride after reading this thread. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I weigh 62kg's and run the following setup: Front -> Specialized The Captain 26x2.0, Rear -> Specialized Fast Trak LK.

 

I usually pump my tires up in the 2.5 to 3.0 PSI range. I've yet to burp a tyre or have a puncture out on a trail that required additional inflating. There have been numerous devil thorns (the nemesis of our tubes) embedded in my tyres, but simply continued riding with them in. I've even removed a few whilst stopped on a ride, only to have the Stans sealant and the 2Bliss tyres eat up the hole from the thorn with minimal if any air pressure lost.

 

I'm definitely going to start experimenting with lower pressures on my next ride after reading this thread. :)

 

Yeah bro, far too high. I'm 102kg and run 30psi...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout