Devon Melville Posted May 17, 2011 Share I am looking at upgrading only the frame of my MTB, what are the Key Factors to look at when I want to transfer my componants and FORK from old bike (frame) to new frame? Looking at getting a carbon HT frame or Duel sus. PLSE HELP!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin Posted May 17, 2011 Share Check that your new frame has a tapered or straight headset...so your fork will fit. Check your frame size by measuring, cause frames differ from make to make. Check brake calliper compatability wrt mountings on the frame/fork. Check mountings for cable lugs on the frame. Check BB size. Check seatpost diameter. And then double check everything again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weight Weenie Posted May 17, 2011 Share type of headtube - normal or tapered although there are adaptersHeadtube length, otherwise steerer on fork may be too short.Headset typeSeatpost sizeFront derailer type ie. normal or bolt on as well as bottom/top cable pull and clamp size Bottom bracket type and size - you may need spacers or adapter if you have an external bb and the frame is BB30 for example.Rear brake mount, may need an adapterSeatclamp type Goode deal here - https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/3908-brand-new-2009-gt-zaskar-carbon-team-frame/Im sure some shameless self promotion is ok after I gave some input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Melville Posted May 17, 2011 Share Thanks for these pointers, will check out componants etc on my bike and compare with availble frames. Saw your Post, really nice frame. in CPT though and would like to c before any purchase... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogwaai Posted May 19, 2011 Share Are you planning to do the build yourself or take all the components + frame to an LBS to transfer or build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tankman Posted May 19, 2011 Share ...what are the Key Factors to look at when I want to transfer my componants .... Spelling, definitely look at spelling as a key factor. Otherwise you might end up with Spam components, a Fos Fork or a Crackondale frame.These Chinese guys are quite good with this sort of thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bontie Posted May 19, 2011 Share http://www.greatkeenbike.com/main/home/cp_detail.php?id=64&nowmenuid=12&cpath=0009:&catid=0 @Tankman - these chinas don't make spelling mistakes... Sorry bout the hijack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tankman Posted May 19, 2011 Share Really, that second last frame says Mince not Prince Man they are getting good at this copy and paste job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted May 19, 2011 Share Get the manufacturer's torque specs. And a torque wench (yes, I know, a girl in the workshop). Either that or tighten till you crack something, and then back off half a turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin Posted May 19, 2011 Share Spelling, definitely look at spelling as a key factor. Otherwise you might end up with Spam components, a Fos Fork or a Crackondale frame.These Chinese guys are quite good with this sort of thing! @Tankman...that was a good laugh ! Hope the bike build is a DIY..taking it to the LBS may be faster, but def. decreases the fun factor. I am hopefully going to be doing a bike build myself soon, so please post progress and pics...and challenges/solutions lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Break Posted May 19, 2011 Share Biggest factor to check is to check if the your fork and frame are compatible according to the manufacturers specification. If not you may end up with handling problems at high speed. Rule of thumb, your hub to hub center distance should not change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted May 19, 2011 Share handling problems at high speed. Dude, unless he's into downhill, no hubbers are in danger of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Break Posted May 22, 2011 Share Maybe there are a few hubbers who go fastert than you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted May 22, 2011 Share We do go fater than you thing but I have never given angles and all that other white coat **** any thought when I put a 160mm fork on my Morewood or a 120mm on my RDS . I have build a few bikes by using the spares from a old bike and if it does not fit you either force it or get a conversion kit . As far as derailures goes , it does not matter what you currently got on your bike it will still pull either top/sideways or bottom on the new frame . But if you get it right the first time you will save a lot of time and money . The only thing I have found to be a problem have been the fork , and then it would be the lenght of the shaft that goes into your the bike headset . Edited May 22, 2011 by dirt-rider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted May 22, 2011 Share We do go fater than you thing but I have never given angles and all that other white coat **** any thought when I put a 160mm fork on my Morewood or a 120mm on my RDS . I have build a few bikes by using the spares from a old bike and if it does not fit you either force it or get a conversion kit . As far as derailures goes , it does not matter what you currently got on your bike it will still pull either top/sideways or bottom on the new frame . But if you get it right the first time you will save a lot of time and money . The only thing I have found to be a problem have been the fork , and then it would be the lenght of the shaft that goes into your head . Are you sure you're talking about the same thing here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted May 22, 2011 Share Sorry that did not come out right !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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