Photo/Photographer thread.

[nazmo]

Tamron or Canon? I am very tempted to get a wide angle, because I really enjoy landscapes.

 

Edit: Congrats on your selection! Some awesome photos there.

 

Canon STM 10-18mm. Canon STM lenses, though not L by any means, are proving very sharp!

 

All taken with mine

 

[Flowta]

Canon STM 10-18mm. Canon STM lenses, though not L by any means, are proving very sharp!

 

All taken with mine

 

 

Awesome pics!!!

 

If you wouldn't mind letting me know what settings you used? And what post processing you did to get these?

 

I am getting better and better results with my pics, but could use a few hints ;-)

[Slowbee]

Flowta - I can really really recomend this magazine, even if you buy only this issue. It is so worth it ! They allow readers to submit pics and then they evaluate them, give tips etc.

 

Soooooo worth it. Had really helped me.

 

http://gb.zinio.com/www/browse/issue.jsp?skuId=416333487&offerId=500377317&subscription=true

[Robrider]

Canon STM 10-18mm. Canon STM lenses, though not L by any means, are proving very sharp!

 

All taken with mine

 

Awesome shots. 

 

Thanks. I would love L lenses, but don't have that kind of budget. The R3k is do-able and the reviews I've seen say its great value for money.

 

+1 on tips for beginners

[nazmo]

So the 3 pics are my first 3 landscape shoots I did  Its really easy

 

1) Take a tripod

2) If you have live view and a level, use it

3) I always take 2 exposures

4) Set to ISO 100, I set my aperteur to one thats considered sharp, around F11-F18

5) I use a variable Neutral density filter, this changes a 1/20sec exposure up to 10-15 seconds! great to make those blurry water shots.

6) I take a shot with the sky rich in detail and in focus, this will make the foreground dark

7) I take a shot with the foreground with the correct exposure, with blown out skies.

 

Post bits

8) Shoot in RAW, AdobeRGB

9) DONT USE LIGHTROOM if you own canon. It sucks regarding noise. trust me. Use   DPP. Lightroom is great for batch, but not when creating high quality smooth images.

10) I dont like HDR algorithms and apps, they tend to look fake. I manually layer the "sky" shot and the "foreground" shot with layer masks. usually a simple graduated one.

 

I dont really do much post. And i try to keep the image looking real, so be careful not to overdo the "HDRI" effect.

 

When compositing your image, try to avoid centered horisons, use rule of thirds, or keep it interesting. Always make sure to have foreground interest, or leading lines, especially shooting wide.

 

Out of interest. My settings typically at sunset is:

 

1x shot at ISO 100, F16, 1/10 seconds, 11mm zoom (for sky)

1x shot at ISO 100, F16, 10-15 seconds, Foreground (note I use a neutral density filter to achieve these shutters.

Live view is great as it uses mirror lockup by default, and you can press focus point. Also, use a 2 second timer so no camera shake.

Edited June 2, 2015 by nazmo

[Flowta]

Flowta - I can really really recomend this magazine, even if you buy only this issue. It is so worth it ! They allow readers to submit pics and then they evaluate them, give tips etc.

 

Soooooo worth it. Had really helped me.

 

http://gb.zinio.com/www/browse/issue.jsp?skuId=416333487&offerId=500377317&subscription=true

 

Thanks SLowbee, buyng it now

[Flowta]

So the 3 pics are my first 3 landscape shoots I did  Its really easy

 

1) Take a tripod

2) If you have live view and a level, use it

3) I always take 2 exposures

4) Set to ISO 100, I set my aperteur to one thats considered sharp, around F11-F18

5) I use a variable Neutral density filter, this changes a 1/20sec exposure up to 10-15 seconds! great to make those blurry water shots.

6) I take a shot with the sky rich in detail and in focus, this will make the foreground dark

7) I take a shot with the foreground with the correct exposure, with blown out skies.

 

Post bits

8) Shoot in RAW, AdobeRGB

9) DONT USE LIGHTROOM if you own canon. It sucks regarding noise. trust me. Use   DPP. Lightroom is great for batch, but not when creating high quality smooth images.

10) I dont like HDR algorithms and apps, they tend to look fake. I manually layer the "sky" shot and the "foreground" shot with layer masks. usually a simple graduated one.

 

I dont really do much post. And i try to keep the image looking real, so be careful not to overdo the "HDRI" effect.

 

When compositing your image, try to avoid centered horisons, use rule of thirds, or keep it interesting. Always make sure to have foreground interest, or leading lines, especially shooting wide.

 

Out of interest. My settings typically at sunset is:

 

1x shot at ISO 100, F16, 1/10 seconds, 11mm zoom (for sky)

1x shot at ISO 100, F16, 10-15 seconds, Foreground (note I use a neutral density filter to achieve these shutters.

Live view is great as it uses mirror lockup by default, and you can press focus point. Also, use a 2 second timer so no camera shake.

 

Thanks Nazmo

 

I'll look into get a Neutral Density filter, but in the meantime I'll play with what I have.

 

Using an Olympus E-PL1 M4/3 camera at the moment so it's liveview anyway.

 

I need to see about getting Lightroom, etc.

 

Used Gimp for the last one I posted. Gimp doesn't do RAW so I have t use the Olympus' own software for RAW stuff

[nazmo]

Flowta, Olympus optics are great. Im sure they have superwides

And yes! please use your Olympus Raw software, and export as a 16bit adobeRGB TIFF, then use in photoshop   or equivalent.

Edited June 2, 2015 by nazmo

[Robrider]

 

9) DONT USE LIGHTROOM if you own canon. It sucks regarding noise. trust me. Use   DPP. Lightroom is great for batch, but not when creating high quality smooth images.

 

 

I've been using light room. Still learning though. Maybe I will give DPP a shot.

[Flowta]

Flowta, Olympus optics are great. Im sure they have superwides

I currently have the 14-42mm kit lens which is equivalent to 28-84mm on a full-frame camera.

 

There are wider available 8mm and 9mm IIRC, but out of my budget.

 

What is nice is that I have some adapters coming so I can use my old Nikon and M42 film lenses 

 

And yes! please use your Olympus Raw software, and export as a 16bit adobeRGB TIFF, then use in photoshop    or equivalent.

Awesome, will do. Thanks for the tip.

[Slowbee]

what is DPP? I have lightroom and it seems to be great .....

[nazmo]

I've been using light room. Still learning though. Maybe I will give DPP a shot.

 

I only noticed when doing touchups on really high detailed studio shots, There should not be any noise. when working in the darker shadow areas, I saw noise. i thought it was my sensor just sucking, until my friend with a 5D MK3 said the same thing. I reprocessed the same image in DPP, and it was smooth.  Note though, i still use Lightroom for many shoots, but whenever I do a landscape or an image where I need ultimate IQ, I use DPP.

 

 

I currently have the 14-42mm kit lens which is equivalent to 28-84mm on a full-frame camera.

 

There are wider available 8mm and 9mm IIRC, but out of my budget.

 

What is nice is that I have some adapters coming so I can use my old Nikon and M42 film lenses 

 

Awesome, will do. Thanks for the tip.

 

 

the 14-42 (which equals my 18-50mm on Canon crop), is great, but until you really play with a proper wide, you dont know what you missing

[nazmo]

what is DPP? I have lightroom and it seems to be great .....

 

DPP is digital photo professional, for canon DSLR's. its not as powerful as lightroom, but I do believe it processes raw's cleaner. but its veryyyyyy subtle, most people wont notice.

[Slowbee]

Thanks SLowbee, buyng it now

have you had a read yet ? what did you think ?

[Flowta]

have you had a read yet ? what did you think ?

 

Haven't had a chance yet

[Frosty]

Inspired by a few hubbers, here are some pichas from my hike through the Fish River Canyon...

 

Edited June 4, 2015 by geraldm24