Frame Restoration- stripping clear coat

[RudoJ]

I posted a thread last week on this big 21" MERIDA TFS 800 frame a got.

It really didnt look good at all as some of the clear coat was stripped but not all.

Got a call from a guy who was looking for a big frame.

 

Decided to see what I can do to make the frame look better. The end product is quite good. It still needs a polish and some decals before new clear coat. I'm sooooooo sad this isnt a 19"

 

I used Durham chemical paint stripper, 9hours of my time over the weekend and a plastic scraper and very fine steelwool to keep the "brushed look. If youre planning on stripping the frame this way, please use rubber gloves (those yellow dishwashing ones work well) AND a mask (I didnt), had a nagging headache for most of weekend, at least my sinusses are open again

 

So here goes,

BEFORE & After

 

What do you guys think??

[TYGA]

That looks brilliant...have been thinking about doing same on my old hardtail but knowing myself I'll probably end up with the frame half stripped done hanging in the garage for the rest of it's days and paint stripper all over everything else within splashing distance.

 

Is it necessary to get a clear coat done or can it be left as is?

 

If so, what will the clear coat set you back if you get someone to do it or is it easy enough to do yourself with a couple of cans of spray?

[AndreZA]

I would like to know what clear coat does not need a primer. I don't think just sanding the surface will hold the paint. It must be special clear coat.

[DJR]

Is it possible to get a cleaned frame like that anodized in Cape Town? Can the colour of the anodizing be controlled accurately? What would it cost more or less?

Edited May 30, 2011 by DJR

[RudoJ]

Is it necessary to get a clear coat done or can it be left as is?

 

If so, what will the clear coat set you back if you get someone to do it or is it easy enough to do yourself with a couple of cans of spray?

 

I was planning on initially restoring it completely. Would have done it of frame was my size. I've approached two panelbeaters in my area and both said it wouldnt be a problem, even easier if you send the frame in alongside a vehicle that needs a clear coat or so

 

I would like to know what clear coat does not need a primer. I don't think just sanding the surface will hold the paint. It must be special clear coat.

 

That I dont know, but it would be nice to find out. Think a clear coat is necessary to protect the frame against scratces etc.

 

But thanks anyways, I dont think I did a bad job at all. Now to find that 19" frame for a single speed project

[Cassie]

Just dig that brushed silver look!

[Bos]

Funny Im just busy thinking about changing my Zula. White is getting a little old and I think metal finishes are the new Black. So I want to make mine look like Titanium, not to sure How I was going to achieve that, 2 Options were a translucent gray/blueish colour, and the other to anodise. Aparently anodising isnt that expensive, lady quoted me R300 if I do all the prep work. So Im still not sure which to take. But I have all polished and White parts so I thing It will look neat in a all metal, white, gunsmoke and pollished mix.

 

Thing is once youve anodised, Youre pretty much done, cause that stuff is hard. I might go for the Coat, and have it done by a pro...

Dont want my Bony to look cheap

 

As for A couat over your clear, Cape powdercoating in wallflower road pardon Island does a clear Powdercoat.. should be nice and hard.

[EigerSA]

the only problem with anodizing is that it's not the hardest wearing finish, it'll show signs of use pretty quickly (depending on how often you ride and how you ride). Powdercoating is a better option for mtb's, and you can get a clear powdercoat. With powder coating just take the time to seal up all your threads as the coating will add mm's on.

[brussel]

I did a similar thing but clear coating is not that simple.

I had it done by a mate who works for BMW so it was a super quality finish and the guys did great work

but there are tiny pinholes in the paint that let some sweat through (I sweat profusely)

it looks like I have little worms corroding their way under the clear coat.

 

I reckon if you wax the uncoated alu, you could get away with a few months between polishes.

 

I used a scourer even better than steel wool!

[Minion]

If you're feeling ambitious, have some spare cash lying around and don't mind adding some weight to the frame, you could go ahead and chrome it.

[itchy&scratchy]

Go to an automotive paint shop and buy yourself 2K clear gloss, thats the stuff for the job, it will require someone experienced to paint it though.

Clearcoat powdercoat would be the ideal thing but in all my years of painting, Ive never heard of it. Never to old to learn though so maybe it is available now.

cheers

Justin

[patches]

Funny Im just busy thinking about changing my Zula. White is getting a little old and I think metal finishes are the new Black. So I want to make mine look like Titanium, not to sure How I was going to achieve that, 2 Options were a translucent gray/blueish colour, and the other to anodise. Aparently anodising isnt that expensive, lady quoted me R300 if I do all the prep work. So Im still not sure which to take. But I have all polished and White parts so I thing It will look neat in a all metal, white, gunsmoke and pollished mix.Thing is once youve anodised, Youre pretty much done, cause that stuff is hard. I might go for the Coat, and have it done by a pro... Dont want my Bony to look cheap ;)As for A couat over your clear, Cape powdercoating in wallflower road pardon Island does a clear Powdercoat.. should be nice and hard.

 

Yeah, I was quoted R360 when I wanted to anodise my Morewood Izimu frame, and R150 for a bead blast (suggested by the anodisers) ro get that matt anodized look like the Santa Cruz frames have.

 

The only hesitation I had was when I was told that decals can't stick to an anodised surface. Is this true?

 

the only problem with anodizing is that it's not the hardest wearing finish, it'll show signs of use pretty quickly (depending on how often you ride and how you ride). Powdercoating is a better option for mtb's, and you can get a clear powdercoat. With powder coating just take the time to seal up all your threads as the coating will add mm's on.

 

 

When done properly, it's supposed to be the 2nd hardest surface, next to diamonds. I have heard though, that a poorly done job will flake off

[EigerSA]

When done properly, it's supposed to be the 2nd hardest surface, next to diamonds. I have heard though, that a poorly done job will flake off

 

I don't think so. As I understand it anodizing is like a stain, it adds nothing to the protection of an object, it's purely cosmetic, though according to wiki, anodized alu is stronger than un-anodized alu. My climbing equipment is anodized and the finish didn't last long at all, loads of scratches showing through.

 

If you're happy to anodize, then you should rather powdercoat, it's the strongest paint finish available. And as for the worm holes, I've had 4 frames powder coated so far, 2 steel and 2 alu and I haven't had that problem? Sounds like maybe the prep wasn't as good as it could've been.

 

Last frames cost me R120 to powdercoat each, and R60 to blast.

Edited May 30, 2011 by EigerSA

[EigerSA]

If you're feeling ambitious, have some spare cash lying around and don't mind adding some weight to the frame, you could go ahead and chrome it.

 

Instead of chroming, just polish it.

[Bos]

Anyone Have Ideas how to make it look more like Ti ? IOW bit darker? without giving it a solid coat ? Can it be treated so it makes it a little darker?

[AndreZA]

Anyone Have Ideas how to make it look more like Ti ? IOW bit darker? without giving it a solid coat ? Can it be treated so it makes it a little darker?

 

You can just add a dash of colour tint to the clear lacquer. But you will only have one shot of painting it. Say you use 10% tint and you missed a spot. If you go over it and the surrounding area gets a second coat, it will be darker then then rest. It's like when you stain wood.