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Posted

Any idea on pad replacement $$.. sintered of course!

 

Sintered pads are horrible. Every time I've tried them, I end up going back to organic. They make terrible squeeling noises, vibrate and generally suck. Urgh!

 

PoS, do you find organic pads wear out too quickly for you?

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Posted

Butyour short list:

Formular: Oro, R1

Avid: elixir CR / X9 in 2011-2012 speak..

Hope: X2

Shimano: XT/XTR

 

the Hope M4s, Avid Codes, Shimano Saints and Formula The Ones are all overkill for AM IMO. But if that's what u like, then by all means.

 

Have you tried SLX with big, fairly-solid-surfaced rotors? Both my boet and I both run these, they're way more powerful than you'd imagine. There was a chart rating lever effort in relation to resistance applied, and SLX was (in the dry) actually better than XT and XTR. Only Saint rated higher in the Shimano stable. Actually I think the chart went Saint, Formula the One, Avid Code, SLX.

Posted

Oh, before I forget: Mayhem/Cap, the stripper used to get that M3 shiny is from Genkem, it's about R200 for a little pot, but works way better than RemoveAll. Not sure what the actual name is, but it shouldn't be too hard to find...

Posted

Sintered pads are horrible. Every time I've tried them, I end up going back to organic. They make terrible squeeling noises, vibrate and generally suck. Urgh!

 

PoS, do you find organic pads wear out too quickly for you?

 

yep.that's one of the classic complaints from the avid stable (but not directly linked to sintered or organic pads). I only use sintered, and times when they squeak momentarily is when starting out when its' wet, and after riding in really dry dusty conditions. In the latter case, cleaning my discs just by wiping them down fixes the problem in a snap. In the former case, drying by using works every time.

 

MH; the squealing was when using sintered pads on you SLXs? Also, apolgies for not short listing them. I'm unfortunately not well rounded in terms of the various brands I've used wrt brakes.

Posted

Oh, before I forget: Mayhem/Cap, the stripper used to get that M3 shiny is from Genkem, it's about R200 for a little pot, but works way better than RemoveAll. Not sure what the actual name is, but it shouldn't be too hard to find...

 

Good thing you rememberd: i tried the RemoveAll for over 24hrs on some paint that needed removing: horrible fail. Maybe it's too cold outside, or I didnt apply enough, but definitely not looking good.

 

from this list: which one is it?

Posted

Sintered pads are horrible. Every time I've tried them, I end up going back to organic. They make terrible squeeling noises, vibrate and generally suck. Urgh!

 

PoS, do you find organic pads wear out too quickly for you?

 

 

Went through a whole pad today.. so yes.. Guess you could say that.

 

Sintered has been on all my bikes until I got this resin sheet..

Posted

PoS: you ride in the wet today? Organics/resin pads are notorious for being destroyed very early on in the wet. Sintered's get ravaged too, and sometimes feel a bit too slippery in the wet, but still last waaaay longer than organics in the wet.

Posted

Good thing you rememberd: i tried the RemoveAll for over 24hrs on some paint that needed removing: horrible fail. Maybe it's too cold outside, or I didnt apply enough, but definitely not looking good.

 

from this list: which one is it?

 

 

Genkem NOVA 8 NOVASTRIP ®.. the only stripper on the list for metal. Available in little pots too.

Posted

Oro's have been discontinued for about two seasons now.

 

For AM go Formula RX for ultimate value for money. Best all round deal available today. For heavier duty AM riding try The One and for Trail / Light AM R1. Next in line will be Avid Elixer. Shimano's XT /XTR aren't the best around and I'll only rate them behind those and Hope. Latest XTR Trail stoppers are much improved though, but $$$. I would go SLX before I'd spend money on XT or XTR.

 

For a couple of tips on how to get more from your disc brakes have a look HERE

Posted (edited)

CRC pricing (per side excl shipping, VAT, customs and GRYP):

Formula:

The One 2010 - R2065

RX - R1022

R1 - R1648

 

Avid:

Codes 2011 - R1345

Code R 2011 - R1147

Elixir CR X9 2011 - R1199

Elixir R X7 2011 - R938

 

Hope Tech:

X2 - R1189

M4 - R1389

Edited by Capricorn
Posted

PoS: you ride in the wet today? Organics/resin pads are notorious for being destroyed very early on in the wet. Sintered's get ravaged too, and sometimes feel a bit too slippery in the wet, but still last waaaay longer than organics in the wet.

 

Yeah, sintered just lasts longer.

 

I like the look of the codes.. and 50% off at CRC!

 

Me short fingers will do well with the reach adjust, and the bite adjust will compensate for cranking the reach all the way in. So it ticks all the boxes.

 

Thanks for the advice..

 

I'll be the one on the front wheel! :blink:

Posted

Went through a whole pad today.. so yes.. Guess you could say that.

 

Sintered has been on all my bikes until I got this resin sheet..

 

Haha, I guess that answers my question pretty solidly :)

 

For me it works 10000 times better, but:

 

1) I weigh only 69kg

2) I ride in mud only during these funride-type events, where I can't avoid it...

 

In today's weather, I'd believe you on wearing through anything pretty quickly!

Posted

PoS: what brakes you currently on?

 

also, C-adjustments dont negate R-adjustments. C only works inward from full pad thickness position of the pistons, that is, normally retracted. R-adjustment is a heaven-send though: I run mine very close to the bars.

 

Those Codes are SUPER grabby. I dont think I've lost traction so many times before in all the years combined riding the Elixirs, as I have in just one day with the Codes.

Posted

Thanks Crow, Cap, MH. Brakes are in the basket, now what's your thought on dropper seatposts.

 

Wait for Fox? Buy KS? What you guys think??

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