29er setup

[twin rings]

should there be any difference in the setup between a 26 and a 29er? I have copied my setup across from my 26, and after a month of getting use to the bike I still dont feel 100% comfortable, I feel as if I'm to far forward and my hands are taking a pounding. PS the 26 is a dualie and the 29 a H/T, if that makes any difference.

[splat]

The geometry of the frame could lead to a slightly different setup

[Cycle Factory]

Will do in most cases. Lots to consider and possible too complex to post here as there are lots of settings and adjustments that are dependent on each other. Best will be to pop in to your LBS ( would offer to do it for free, but you're a bit far!) and have a set up done. Race snakes are not so keen to let go of their trusted cockpit set up so it's a tough swallow to drop stem length and gain some width in the bars, but that's where most of the fine tuning is at.

 

BUT, again, it depends on a lot of other factors.

[twin rings]

Will do in most cases. Lots to consider and possible too complex to post here as there are lots of settings and adjustments that are dependent on each other. Best will be to pop in to your LBS ( would offer to do it for free, but you're a bit far!) and have a set up done. Race snakes are not so keen to let go of their trusted cockpit set up so it's a tough swallow to drop stem length and gain some width in the bars, but that's where most of the fine tuning is at.

 

BUT, again, it depends on a lot of other factors.

thanks for the offer! Yip probably best to go and see the professionals......

[NotSoBigBen]

I am no expert but can only give my (very) humble opinion, I went to wider bars and it has made a significant difference TO ME ....

[Rapunzel]

Also get the bike shop to check your shock pressures - sag on the front shock on your 29" hardtail or on the rear shock of your 26" DS may be causing the problem.

[BergForce]

Adjust your saddle angle (lift the saddle nose) to address the pounding your arms are taking. There could be a big difference in setup between a 29er and 26er, use your 26er setup as a baseline and them start adjusting to get your 29er setup right.

[wonduhboy]

should there be any difference in the setup between a 26 and a 29er? I have copied my setup across from my 26, and after a month of getting use to the bike I still dont feel 100% comfortable, I feel as if I'm to far forward and my hands are taking a pounding. PS the 26 is a dualie and the 29 a H/T, if that makes any difference.

I have exactly the same problem also moving from a dual 26 to a hardtail 29er. My arms take a beating as well.

Can't figure out if it's because my drop (to h.bars) is too little or too much...

[Tumbleweed]

Will do in most cases. Lots to consider and possible too complex to post here as there are lots of settings and adjustments that are dependent on each other. Best will be to pop in to your LBS ( would offer to do it for free, but you're a bit far!) and have a set up done. Race snakes are not so keen to let go of their trusted cockpit set up so it's a tough swallow to drop stem length and gain some width in the bars, but that's where most of the fine tuning is at.

 

BUT, again, it depends on a lot of other factors.

 

Not a race snake, but that's what I did. went from a 110m to 60m stem; tossed out two spacers; went to a wider riser instead of a flat bar.

[Iwan Kemp]

Adjust your saddle angle (lift the saddle nose) to address the pounding your arms are taking.

 

Sorry, but that's gotta be the worse advise ever. You'll stuff your back, and to a lesser degree neck and shoulders, in no time. Saddle must be flat. At all times. Only time there should be a bit of a tilt is a) you're running a lot of sag and need to level it out when seated or B) you're a FR / DH rider

 

If your arms are taking a beating

• add 5-12mm spacers under the stem OR
• run a bar with greater rise OR
• fit a stem with a greater rise

Never do all at the same time and whatever you do do it in small steps.

Edited December 7, 2011 by The Crow

[scotty]

I prefer narrower bars as allows me to sit more upright than spread out, i also fitted a stem with greater rise.

[Iwan Kemp]

If it's upright you want rather go with extra spacers or riser bars or shorter stem. Going narrower you loose quite a bit of steering control.

[Eldron]

Hands taking a beating on a 29er doesn't make sense - typically 29ers are 1.5" higher in the front than 26ers ;-)

 

Try a low rise bar.

 

My "standard" 29er set up kit is:

Zero offset seat pillar (which doesn't make sense when you say you feel further forward on the bike)

Longer stem (about 2cm depending on top tube length)

Flip stem.

Low rise bar.

 

Actually none of my standard will help you!

 

Ok unread this post :-)

 

When you say you copied your set up - do you mean by measuring or just moved aall your old stuff onto the new bike?

 

Crow - I run all my seats with the front raised. Seat angle depends on comfort, riding style and body geometry. "flat" one size fits all is like saying everybody should ride a medium frame...not good.

[Iwan Kemp]

Hands taking a beating on a 29er doesn't make sense - typically 29ers are 1.5" higher in the front than 26ers ;-)

In theory yes, but a lot of manufacturers spend a lot of money and effort to get the front end lower by going with a shorter HT

 

Try a low rise bar.

Going with a low rise bar will depend what he's currently got.

 

Crow - I run all my seats with the front raised. Seat angle depends on comfort, riding style and body geometry. "flat" one size fits all is like saying everybody should ride a medium frame...not good.

Not correct on saddle angle and saying that is not close to saying everybody should ride a medium. When riding with a raised nose you are using muscle power (core) to keep you up-right, on and in the saddle. Your body will compensate so chances are you won't notice, but you are using energy for something you shouldn't.

Saddle height is of course theory and a general rule of thumb. Something completely different could work for you.

Edited December 7, 2011 by The Crow

[twin rings]

Hands taking a beating on a 29er doesn't make sense - typically 29ers are 1.5" higher in the front than 26ers ;-)

 

Try a low rise bar.

 

My "standard" 29er set up kit is:

Zero offset seat pillar (which doesn't make sense when you say you feel further forward on the bike)

Longer stem (about 2cm depending on top tube length)

Flip stem.

Low rise bar.

 

Actually none of my standard will help you!

 

Ok unread this post :-)

 

When you say you copied your set up - do you mean by measuring or just moved aall your old stuff onto the new bike?

 

Crow - I run all my seats with the front raised. Seat angle depends on comfort, riding style and body geometry. "flat" one size fits all is like saying everybody should ride a medium frame...not good.

 

 

hi there,

 

i copied the measurements across, pedal to saddle, saddle to stem, checked my knee position over the pedal. I currently have a flat bar, not to sure of the stem angle and size. I have tried the seat slightly raised, but find it uncomfortable in other areas, including the lower back. The bike is a GT Zaskar carbon, 2011. Love the bike so want to get the comfort issues sorted.

[Iwan Kemp]

hi there,

 

i copied the measurements across, pedal to saddle, saddle to stem, checked my knee position over the pedal. I currently have a flat bar, not to sure of the stem angle and size. I have tried the seat slightly raised, but find it uncomfortable in other areas, including the lower back. The bike is a GT Zaskar carbon, 2011. Love the bike so want to get the comfort issues sorted.

 

Pedal to saddle? Should be center of BB to top of saddle in line with ST. Saddle to stem should only be adjusted by stem rather than saddle as saddle for/aft is meant to get you in the right position over your crank arms. Not meant to sort reach.