dgm Posted February 27, 2012 Author Posted February 27, 2012 Seriously: Depending on your weight, adjust the recommended pressure. 85 kg plus a lil less65kg minus a lil more *loose formula* Thanx, that is pretty much what I thought, our roads up here are terrible so I normally ride with a slightly lower pressure, to avoid my bones shaking too much , so looking forward to pumping them up a little,
Grebel Posted February 27, 2012 Posted February 27, 2012 Also try some Nitrogen from Tiger wheel It comes in a handy canister the same shape as those bomb thingies. Tape it to your seatpost. Come to think of it Helium will take a few grams off the weight of your bike...
dgm Posted February 27, 2012 Author Posted February 27, 2012 It comes in a handy canister the same shape as those bomb thingies. Tape it to your seatpost. Come to think of it Helium will take a few grams off the weight of your bike...You guys are all on something and it is not Helium or Nitrogen !!
'Dale Posted February 27, 2012 Posted February 27, 2012 and I thought I was pedantic Obsession (read here 'love') for details is an essential part of the cyclists' DNA... *you know that*
Tiny K Posted February 27, 2012 Posted February 27, 2012 Depends what time you are going for... but generally since boyes drive is included I like to go for 13 bar and upwards, as Tank has already noted. If you are going to wear that red sticker on your helmet for the cameraman, you may want to go with something slightly lower. I have found in previous years that my picture comes out blurry with tyre pressures above 12.5 bar - due to the increased vibration. You could however get the best of both worlds by installing a seatpost with suspension, or wearing 2 pairs of shorts. 12.5 bars and up you must carry a foot pump with you. If you puncture you will never get your spare tube up beyond 6 bar without one.Since we have lower pressure at the coast, I would recommend your normal pressure of around 8 bar plus another 5 bar for good measure. This will increase rolling resistance and increase your meter per second travelling speed, securing you a sub 3 for sure. Forgetting both waterbottles will also count in your favour. The pressure of a sub 3 ... oh boy! You two crack me up! :clap: :clap:
Tiny K Posted February 27, 2012 Posted February 27, 2012 I weigh in at 95Kg's and pump my Schwalbe Ultremo ZX's to 9 bar (max is 10 bar I think). Ride what you are used to. Changing spec makes handling minimally different but can take away confidence in cornering - well that is all in my opinion. Stick to what you know is all I can say. The roads are fairly bumpy around here too hey.
Tiny K Posted February 27, 2012 Posted February 27, 2012 and I thought I was pedantic I go to the point of carrying a 500ml bottle instead of a 750ml bottle if I can save the weight and don't need as much liquids in the 2nd bottle
dgm Posted February 27, 2012 Author Posted February 27, 2012 I weigh in at 95Kg's and pump my Schwalbe Ultremo ZX's to 9 bar (max is 10 bar I think). Ride what you are used to. Changing spec makes handling minimally different but can take away confidence in cornering - well that is all in my opinion. Stick to what you know is all I can say. The roads are fairly bumpy around here too hey. Thanx Tiny
Reg Lizard Posted February 28, 2012 Posted February 28, 2012 As hard as it can go!!! then again....if it rains a little softer
Niner Posted February 28, 2012 Posted February 28, 2012 Seriously: Depending on your weight, adjust the recommended pressure. 85 kg plus a lil less65kg minus a lil more *loose formula* Why less if you are heavier? I would have thought the heavier to the more the pressure? Like a MTB?
D-Mike Posted February 28, 2012 Posted February 28, 2012 Why less if you are heavier? I would have thought the heavier to the more the pressure? Like a MTB?The heavier you are the more additional pressure you add to the pressure inside the wheel. The overall pressure is dictated by the maximum allowable pressure of the tyre. If you exceed that pressure you could be looking for trouble. This argument holds true for road bike tyres as the tyre deforms relatively little at the pressures we pump the tyres 8-10 bar. However for a MTB it is different, where you ride with low pressure and your weight makes a considerable change in the shape of the tyre. On a MTB you do not want the tyre to deform too much as you could damage the rim, snakebites, etc. Therefore you need to increase the pressure for the heavier guy. Keeping in mind that on a MTB lower pressure increases traction.
nuge Posted February 28, 2012 Posted February 28, 2012 in fact, i've found leaving simply the tyres off altogether reduces rotational weight and the risk of punctures
T-Bob Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 (edited) Doesn't anyone use PSI over here? Thought it just my mate being retarded when I was talking PSI and he was looking blankly. If you're talking to me in 'Bars' I'm expecting a cold frosty ale pretty darn soon! Edited March 1, 2012 by hellocolour
Agteros Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 Doesn't anyone use PSI over here? Thought it just my mate being retarded when I was talking PSI and he was looking blankly. If you're talking to me in 'Bars' I'm expecting a cold frosty ales pretty darn soon!at least 120
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