Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

After I build my old bike's components over to my new frame I ended up with a drop of 75mm. Is that to much? Should I consider a new fork?

 

When I recently went for a bike setup, they are setting it with 50mm and below. This will also depend on your body, and the type of bike you are riding.

Posted

After I build my old bike's components over to my new frame I ended up with a drop of 75mm. Is that to much? Should I consider a new fork?

 

It depends on how tall you are (and how long your arms and legs are) and your flexibility.

If you are 5' tall, that is a lot of drop

If you are 6' 6", then not so much

 

A lot the road pro's have at least 10cm drop.

Posted

They always say, Use 4 fingers as width between top of handlebar and top of saddle.

I suggest that you go for bike setup and get a copy of your setup and keep it as record...

 

What happens if you have fat fingers? That seems a hell of a lot if I look at my current setup and my four fingers, which are not fat.

Posted

roughly 10mm below the top of saddle to top of bars is how I roll ... 75mm and the other huge figures sound like roadie territory to me :)

Posted

Really it's such a personal thing - people who will tell you how many mm's it 'should be' are just trying to sound like experts (standard practise on the hub).

 

Worry about your correct saddle height. Then the difference in height from your saddle to the drops is all about your own comfort levels and (as someone has already said) about your own flexibility and/or core muscle strength.

 

Example: I've changed my handlebar height a few times, depending on circumstance. 8 months ago I had a couple of spacers above the stem because I was much fitter and more flexible than I am now. Now, after a 6 month layoff from injury, the spacers are all back under the stem so that I can have a more upright position - purely because it's more comfortable for me right now. As my fitness & flexibility improve, I will slowly start transferring a spacer or two below the stem, but only when I want to do it, not when some expert tells me I need to.

Posted (edited)

FWIW - my drop on road bike is almost exactly the same (having done a setup). MTB is less.

 

What was it on your old bike? How did you ensure your saddle is at the correct height when you transferred it? (Meaning - what did you measure or did you mark the seatpost or what did you do?) As stated above: seat height (and setback) is critical...

Edited by SeaBee
Posted

For those who needed more info. The geometry of the new frame differs from the new frame and its a road frame. I kept the saddle height exactly the same as well as the reach. The the difference between headtube lenght and headset tipe caused that I effectively less steerer to work with.

 

Non the less, thanks for all the input. I guess I'll take it for a spin and check it out.

Posted

For those who needed more info. The geometry of the new frame differs from the new frame and its a road frame. I kept the saddle height exactly the same as well as the reach. The the difference between headtube lenght and headset tipe caused that I effectively less steerer to work with.

 

Non the less, thanks for all the input. I guess I'll take it for a spin and check it out.

 

Bravo ... best way to see if it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout