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Posted

:mellow: :eek: :blush:

I have my saddle as far forward as I can get it, and shortened my stem to a 70mm, and I still feel like Im not getting far back enough on the saddle... :mellow:

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Posted

Rode with the set-up that was done and I am so comfortable. For those that say go to a reputable fitter I say "that is what I did". Just came as a shock that I could actually ride a much smaaler frame that I thought. Thanks to Ergofit.

Posted

:mellow: :eek: :blush:

I have my saddle as far forward as I can get it, and shortened my stem to a 70mm, and I still feel like Im not getting far back enough on the saddle... :mellow:

 

Same. But with 6 bikes, I'm bloody well not going to change now.

Posted

I can ride my daughters 16 inch bike,just need a longer seatpost.Feels very comfortable .

 

A dude did the 94.7 on one of those some years back. He didn't look comfy. Maybe he hadn't had a bike-fit done.

Posted

This is what mine said: I am 178

 

M.T.B.Size M

Seat height 73.7

Crank length 175

 

Road Bike Size 54

Seat height 74

Crank length 172.5

 

This is where these bikefit things go wrong. You leg is the same length across MTB and Road yet they suggest a different saddle height for different bike types which is bollocks.

 

Add in the suspension sag and you are sitting way too low on an MTB if the Road saddle height is correct.

Posted (edited)

This is where these bikefit things go wrong. You leg is the same length across MTB and Road yet they suggest a different saddle height for different bike types which is bollocks.

 

Add in the suspension sag and you are sitting way too low on an MTB if the Road saddle height is correct.

 

Lol everyone is an expert, ok so your top tube lengths are the same size on both bikes making sure your hip correlation is correct? you bb's are the same relative angle and obviously your seat angles are exactly the same on your road bike and your mountainbike.

 

Ill drop Dr Swarts a e-mail and inform him he is wrong, maybe he should inform burry too.

 

And you get measured by knee angle sitting on the bike including sag.

Edited by covie
Posted

Point is you can make yoursef fit on almost any size bike but if you running a 400mm seatpost a 140mm stem and 6cm of spacers under your stem you on the wrong size bike. Don't care what the experts say. Problem is bikefit is expensive so if there is no change we are pissed because we were ripped off but if there is a huge change/correction we feel it's money well spent.

Posted

I find it interesting to see the old guys riding style. Eddy always looked cramped, but you can't argue that it worked for him. Shorter frames all round?

post-14151-0-67712700-1339063066.jpg

Posted

Lol everyone is an expert, ok so your top tube lengths are the same size on both bikes making sure your hip correlation is correct? you bb's are the same relative angle and obviously your seat angles are exactly the same on your road bike and your mountainbike.

 

Ill drop Dr Swarts a e-mail and inform him he is wrong, maybe he should inform burry too.

 

And you get measured by knee angle sitting on the bike including sag.

 

Apart from the fact that pedals are different,shoes and cleats are different.

Posted

This is where these bikefit things go wrong. You leg is the same length across MTB and Road yet they suggest a different saddle height for different bike types which is bollocks.

 

Add in the suspension sag and you are sitting way too low on an MTB if the Road saddle height is correct.

 

Suspension sag changes your seat height :eek: - what bike you riding :whistling:

Posted (edited)

...not to mention that there shoudn't be any relative sag between the pedal and seat... and that the advised crank lengths are different which brings you to... aaah, the same distance bar half a mm - which is most likely differences in shoes/cleats or (more like) negligible)

 

(oops, ben beat me to one point whilst I was typing...)

Edited by SeaBee
Posted

Remember that formulas are used to calculate those values. And it is based on averages from previous surveys. Your final position might differ from those supplied. No formula is perfect for everybody.

 

Only you yourself can determine if you are comfortable or not

Posted

Dunno if comfort can be used as a guide. You will be comfortable over a range, and within reason, 'comfort' is just what you are used to, and what feels familiar.

 

I had a fit with Arran Brown a good few years ago and immediately felt better 'fitted' to the bike - some guy mentioned that you feel like you are sitting 'in' the bike instead of 'on' the bike, and that is how it was for me.

 

I got a new (different) frame and took a stab at setting it up. Felt comfortable enough, but I never had as much confidence riding the new frame as the old frame. Old frame I could just let go on down hills (mtb) and the bike would fly but always feel under control. The new frame didn't feel anything like that.

 

Had an Ergofit done, and it immediately felt wrong. Felt like I was riding a BMX. However, once I got used to it (5 - 10 rides?) I realised that I could put far more power down than before, was more comfortable and once again can just let go on downhills. I'm much happier on the bike now, but if I was going to go by feel, I'd just have said 'this is crap' and still be badly balanced on the bike with my saddle too high and too far forward and bars too low.

 

Had it done a month bf S2C and was worried I was going to pop a knee due to the extra bend / unfamiliar range of motion but flew through it. Made a huge difference - more comfortable and seated to get the most efficient use of muscle so much stronger riding.

 

So sometimes you just got to have faith that these guys might (God forbid) know what they are talking about.

Posted

Point is you can make yoursef fit on almost any size bike but if you running a 400mm seatpost a 140mm stem and 6cm of spacers under your stem you on the wrong size bike. Don't care what the experts say. Problem is bikefit is expensive so if there is no change we are pissed because we were ripped off but if there is a huge change/correction we feel it's money well spent.

 

You can make it go forward yeah but your not going to fit, you will have either neck back knee ankle problems your balance point will be off and you will sure as hell not have an effective stroke and power transfer.

Posted (edited)

This is where these bikefit things go wrong. You leg is the same length across MTB and Road yet they suggest a different saddle height for different bike types which is bollocks.

 

Add in the suspension sag and you are sitting way too low on an MTB if the Road saddle height is correct.

Road riding is not the same as off-road riding. Off road you are on and off your saddle more.

 

The range of motion that is ideal is quite large - e.g. for mtb knee bend of 25 deg to 35 deg. Probably find using a straighter leg on road gives more aero position, on mtb you need to be able to get on and off saddle easier, so is slightly lower. Road biking is about cadence - shorter cranks, mtb is about leverage, longer cranks.

 

Your seat tube is welded to your bottom bracket (unless you own a GT) - sag ain't gonna make no difference to seat to BB distance.

 

The advantage of good bike fits is that they put your centre of gravity over the BB and then work out saddle position / bar position from there. They see the front and back of the bike as two different parts and adjust accordingly. Some dude with a big protractor and a tape measure is going to battle to beat that.

 

Like Greg Minaar said when he was asked about riding DH "Do you put your weight back and go?" "No" he said, "you get your weight over your BB and go from there".

Edited by davetapson

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