Capricorn Posted November 19, 2014 Share did you have the HR II on the front yet? Would the same happen if the tyre was up front? The HD knob tear issue, is it isolated to occurring on the rear, or does it happen on the front too? Bronson on the front anyone? (No vigilante in 26) I have a Magic Mary (trailstar, SG) up front. Its been there for over the lifespan of two rear tyres and still running strong with the current third rear tyre, the HR II. It is wearing down, but not the same way or rate as the rear tyres. I dont foresee myself replacing that front tyre any time soon. its more likely i'm going to rubbish the HR II before the Magic gives up the ghost.. It probably has another year of hard riding left in her. So to answer your question: I'm sure it can lose side knobs, but it hasn't. Edited November 19, 2014 by Capricorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko35s Posted November 19, 2014 Share did you have the HR II on the front yet? Would the same happen if the tyre was up front? The HD knob tear issue, is it isolated to occurring on the rear, or does it happen on the front too? Bronson on the front anyone? (No vigilante in 26)Bear in mind that, by all accounts, you are pretty light while myself and some of the other guys mentioning the tearing were not really designed in a wind tunnel... It may make a difference. Capricorn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niterider Posted November 19, 2014 Share I have a Magic Mary (trailstar, SG) up front. Its been there for over the lifespan of two rear tyres and still running strong with the current third rear tyre, the HR II. It is wearing down, but not the same way or rate as the rear tyres. I dont foresee myself replacing that front tyre any time soon. It probably has another year of hard riding left in her. So to answer your question: I'm sure it can lose side knobs, but it hasn't.That's impressive. I ran the non-SG trailstar version up front through winter. Most of my side knobs have small tears. Tread depth is still very good though, hardly any wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAAHIRWP Posted November 19, 2014 Share Bear in mind that, by all accounts, you are pretty light while myself and some of the other guys mentioning the tearing were not really designed in a wind tunnel...It may make a difference. I hope it does make a difference! I really don't want to make a purchase, and then a few rides in I get the "I told you so" feeling. After all tyres are not really cheap. I've noticed some wear/tear on the side knobs at the base of my schwalbe (pacestar though). It is not braking wear( I know what that looks like:-)) the side knob still stands proud, and as cap said earlier - base of knob and tyre top cap junction. But its okay though. I had the tyre for about a year now, nothing has broken off. Maybe this is the "my weight" factor. Hope so, really do. Just sucks that it seems I will have to be importing from CRC, local stock is so crappy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAAHIRWP Posted November 19, 2014 Share Also, At capricorn: If the Magics are lasting over a year already, and still have about one year left (on the front) - that is really good in my books! I would actually pay the price (easybikes price) for a tyre that good that lasts ±2yrs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capricorn Posted November 19, 2014 Share That's impressive. I ran the non-SG trailstar version up front through winter. Most of my side knobs have small tears. Tread depth is still very good though, hardly any wear. i have some small tears as well, but i dont feel the tyre sliding out unexpectedly which has happened with rear tyres that were pretty badly worn. Similar to your experience, tread depth is still very good. If i look closely, the general wear and tear is more evident. But it's still a very well performing tyre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capricorn Posted November 19, 2014 Share Also, At capricorn: If the Magics are lasting over a year already, and still have about one year left (on the front) - that is really good in my books! I would actually pay the price (easybikes price) for a tyre that good that lasts ±2yrs... I was pretty surprised myself. after I saw the HR II tearing, i decided to look at the MM and realized just how well she is doing despite its reputation for wearing down fast and knobs tearing off and all that. So my estimation of 1 additional year, is just a guess! By then, i'm pretty sure that tyre will be beyond vrek. Who knows how it will deteriorate over the next year. But i'll makes some notes as time goes by. I was going to try an HR II up front. But i'm completely sold on the sidewall stability of the SG carcasses. It runs so well i've neglected checking tyre pressures for weeks on end, only to be surprised to realise just how low tyre pressure has dropped in the interim the lowest I've ridden hard was 1.3bar. But I couldn't tell because the sidewalls weren't folding over. Fantastic stuff! In comparison, I check the HR II before every single ride. Side walls resilience to cuts and abrasions is the best I've experienced with a maxxis, i'll give her that. But she bleeds sealant every single ride. Nearly every run results in weeping, meaning she is burping as well, hence the pressure drops. Nothing major since the first big blowout, but still requires alot more attention than the MM up front. Edited November 19, 2014 by Capricorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big John Posted November 20, 2014 Share That's impressive. I ran the non-SG trailstar version up front through winter. Most of my side knobs have small tears. Tread depth is still very good though, hardly any wear. Im the same with a HD. There are tears on the side knobs, which appeared after only a few rides. I was pretty bummed having only just forked out for them. Decided to just keep going, and TBH is hasnt got any worse. The cracks are still there but the things grip like hell and wear very minimal elsewhere. The rear (non SG trailstar too) has seen a lot of wear over the whole surface of the tire. Will probably get six months out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockCoach Posted November 20, 2014 Share Not able to get the Ibex 2.4 for 26 inch locally in SA, the MMary too. So i was considering the HD. Well, your above statement just put me off completely. Seems WTB also stopped manufacturing 26inch Vigilante tyres as well. Think the Vigilante only ever was 27.5 The Bronson is 26" and now comes with double thick sidewalls. I've just installed a set on my Ragley. No rides thus far but when I do will report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted November 20, 2014 Share Here's a question... has anyone else experienced this? I have a Hutchinson Toro and and a Conti Race King on my Pyga as an experiment (business up front, party at the back), and when I load the conti - in a fast corner or a dip, it makes a growling sound. I've never heard this from any other tyre. It sounded like the tread was rubbing against part of the frame, but that wasn't the case. Tyre was pretty hard, probably 2 bar ish. Anyone else got "vocal" contis? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 20, 2014 Share Here's a question... has anyone else experienced this? I have a Hutchinson Toro and and a Conti Race King on my Pyga as an experiment (business up front, party at the back), and when I load the conti - in a fast corner or a dip, it makes a growling sound. I've never heard this from any other tyre. It sounded like the tread was rubbing against part of the frame, but that wasn't the case. Tyre was pretty hard, probably 2 bar ish. Anyone else got "vocal" contis?That sounds like you have Rolling Tire Syndrome. Same thing happened to me with my Hans Dampf and the WTB Weirwolf before it (on the back) When you load up a tyre and it's got weak sidewalls and / or your rims are narrow, the tire WILL roll and make that sort of growling / grinding sound. Only way to get rid of it is to either pump it up harder (bracing the sidewalls) or get a tire with stronger sidewalls. In that respect - I STRONGLY recommend the Schwalbe Super Gravity casing. It is IMMENSELY strong. No more rolling in berms and corners for me, and I'm not a lightweight. Capricorn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattrb01 Posted November 20, 2014 Share WTB Bronson 2.3Loads of grip and fast rolling to a point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big John Posted November 20, 2014 Share Have you guys seen this? http://www.gramslightbikes.com/2014/08/schwalbe-procore-dual-chamber-tire.html Looks like a good idea, but who knows why they include the regular tubes with the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capricorn Posted November 20, 2014 Share Have you guys seen this? http://www.gramslightbikes.com/2014/08/schwalbe-procore-dual-chamber-tire.html Looks like a good idea, but who knows why they include the regular tubes with the kit. Its not a regular sized tube. The blue thing is just a protective cover for the inner tube.i think it's a brilliant innovation for MTB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big John Posted November 20, 2014 Share Its not a regular sized tube. The blue thing is just a protective cover for the inner tube.i think it's a brilliant innovation for MTB.Not talking about the blue thing. In the box it comes with the procore tubes (the blue ones), as well as regular tubes. They way they describe the installation, you install the procore tube, then your tubeless tire... So why the two regular tubes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big John Posted November 20, 2014 Share Its not a regular sized tube. The blue thing is just a protective cover for the inner tube.i think it's a brilliant innovation for MTB.Not talking about the blue thing. In the box it comes with the procore tubes (the blue ones), as well as regular tubes. They way they describe the installation, you install the procore tube, then your tubeless tire... So why the two regular tubes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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