Moving from compact to normal crank

[Slowbee]

Currently have a compact crank. But I switch between the mtn bike and the road bike when riding. When on the road bike it feels like my legs are going in circles at 100 miles per hour and travelling at 1 mile per hour.

 

Is there a great difference between compact and normal ? Will it take alot of getting used to ? Is it even worth moving to a normal crank ?

[Barend de Arend]

It's just different gears, that's all.

[Slowbee]

Surely a longer crank makes a difference ?

[Seeker911]

why dont you just change the rear cassette to a 11-23 instead. what size cassette do you currently have ?

[Slowbee]

why dont you just change the rear cassette to a 11-23 instead. what size cassette do you currently have ?

 

firstly, ummm how do you know what size cassette you have on ?

 

Secondly, I am trying to get away from this feeling of like I am spinning all the time. Thought the longer crank might help with that, but you say a different cassette might also change this ?

[ThaStig]

Currently have a compact crank. But I switch between the mtn bike and the road bike when riding. When on the road bike it feels like my legs are going in circles at 100 miles per hour and travelling at 1 mile per hour.

 

Is there a great difference between compact and normal ? Will it take alot of getting used to ? Is it even worth moving to a normal crank ?

Have you tried changing your riding style. With compact cranks I found that I had to use the big ring more often and I tended to cross chain more, but used more of the cassette. I found that the I had to stay on the big blade for the whole 99er (old route) and burger (except for Hels) but I felt quite fresh. I rode 50/34 11-23 for a good few years but as I moved up the seedings I had to go back to normal cranks just to keep up on the long descents and flats in races like the Argus. The change to normal took a whole season to get used to.

 

Ps. I went from normal to compact and back to normal

Edited August 15, 2012 by ThaStig

[Jakkals.]

ive got a nrormal truvativ wanna swop? mine is hollowtech.

[Spark]

The ratio for 50front/11rear is 4.55

For 53front/12rear it is 4.42

Simple maths, almost no dif. Just shift

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Wait a minute... Slow... Do you mean that your road bike's crank ARM is shorter than your mtb's? In other words, it's more "compact"? 170mm vs 175mm?

 

If that is the case then yes, a longer crank will definitely make a difference to your pedalling feel

 

But "compact crank" in road terms refers to a crankset with chainrings that have less teeth than your normal 53/38t combination, thereby having a "compact" profile and being better geared for novices and those afraid of hills... not that the crank arm itself is more compact...

Edited August 15, 2012 by cptmayhem

[Slowbee]

Wait a minute... Slow... Do you mean that your road bike's crank ARM is shorter than your mtb's? In other words, it's more "compact"? 170mm vs 175mm?

 

If that is the case then yes, a longer crank will definitely make a difference to your pedalling feel

 

But "compact crank" in road terms refers to a crankset with chainrings that have less teeth than your normal 53/38t combination, thereby having a "compact" profile and being better geared for novices and those afraid of hills... not that the crank arm itself is more compact...

 

well knock me sideways with a broomstick ! I just learnt something here. I thought compact meant shorter, as in compact.

 

So a longer crank will make a difference. And from Thastig's post, will be easy to get used to. Now what websites can I use to buy a crankset .

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

 

 

well knock me sideways with a broomstick ! I just learnt something here. I thought compact meant shorter, as in compact.

 

So a longer crank will make a difference. And from Thastig's post, will be easy to get used to. Now what websites can I use to buy a crankset .

 

Rofl... Thought that's what you meant when you were referring to "spinning like a banshee" on a road bike, when an mtb's crankset is more compact! and don't worry... Mistake is an easy one to make... Crank, crank arm, crankset wtf!?

 

D for replacement crank arms, try crc. I dunno if the local okes carry the arms (or spiders, as they are also known) separate to the whole crank set... Just remember to get the same length arms as on your mtb! And you just want the crank arms, not a full crankset. Full crankset comes with chainrings and bb as well.

Edited August 15, 2012 by cptmayhem

[TNT1]

firstly, ummm how do you know what size cassette you have on ?

 

Secondly, I am trying to get away from this feeling of like I am spinning all the time. Thought the longer crank might help with that, but you say a different cassette might also change this ?

 

Count the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cocks on the cassette.

 

If you're spinning all the time, that's to do with the gear ratio, not the crank length.

 

You will probably find that the actual crank length will be the same with your setup and a non compact one. The compact part refers to the spider not the length of the crank.

[wapad]

well knock me sideways with a broomstick ! I just learnt something here. I thought compact meant shorter, as in compact.

 

So a longer crank will make a difference. And from Thastig's post, will be easy to get used to. Now what websites can I use to buy a crankset .

 

I was on a standard crank 175mm 53/39

 

then to a compact 50/34 172.5mm

 

Now back to a 172.5mm 52/38

 

it will make a big difference going from compact to a Standard crank and you will feel it on the climbs

 

generally you can get away with the 172.5mm where less leverage is required as opposed to mtb where cadence isnt as smooth its better to have that extra 2.5 mm leverage as explained by Jeroen Swart on Supercycling

[Seeker911]

I always thought the length of the crank arms required was dependent on the size of your frame and your personal body geometry. 175mm seems to be the norm for most people. I never really did quite understand how a mere 2.5mm could make any difference at all.

[TNT1]

I always thought the length of the crank arms required was dependent on the size of your frame and your personal body geometry. 175mm seems to be the norm for most people. I never really did quite understand how a mere 2.5mm could make any difference at all.

 

Correct, and yes, the mm's do make a difference.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Count the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cocks on the cassette.

 

If you're spinning all the time, that's to do with the gear ratio, not the crank length.

 

You will probably find that the actual crank length will be the same with your setup and a non compact one. The compact part refers to the spider not the length of the crank.

 

Bob, the problem is he's comparing the "spinning feeling" to that of his MTB which I can almost guarantee has a more compact crank (and would therefore almost spin more than the road bike) That's why, I think, he was confused when people started referring to teeth and cogs / cassettes when in fact that had nothing to do with it, and he was referring ot the length of the crank...