Replacing front suspension

[lerouc]

Hi

 

I want to upgrade my current entry level coil shock to an air shock. I've developed shoulder and wrist pain and this can be because of me being a little heavy on my shock. (according to my LBS)

 

So i am looking at a second hand shock (due to economical times). How would i know if a shock would fit my bike? I have a 2011 GT Avalanche large.

 

I see you get tapered and obviously there will be different lengths of the shocks, how do i know what to look for to replace mine. (without taking my bike apart and checking?

 

Thanks,

Cobus

[ChUkKy]

Hi

I've developed shoulder and wrist pain and this can be because of me being a little heavy on my shock. (according to my LBS)

 

 

Me thinks you need a new LBS, with a story like that they have spent too much time in the Local Bottle Store

[lerouc]

Me thinks you need a new LBS, with a story like that they have spent too much time in the Local Bottle Store

 

Ja i spoke to a kid in the shop so not too sure how true it is but i guess it wont hurt upgrading the shock anyways from an entry level coil...

[MrJacques]

Some softer grips might help as well (they did for me).

 

As to what to check for in a new fork... you would have to check if yours is tapered or not and try and measure your current fork's steerer length.

[ChUkKy]

Ja i spoke to a kid in the shop so not too sure how true it is but i guess it wont hurt upgrading the shock anyways from an entry level coil...

 

I wouldnt replace anything as yet, shoulder and wrist pain could be due to setup... have you had a proper setup done before?

 

A nice air fork is always a good upgrade and makes the world of difference to handling but one thing for sure is dont blame the fork for the shoulder and wrist pain.

Are you not reaching a bit too far perhaps? How tall are you being on a large frame?

[lerouc]

I wouldnt replace anything as yet, shoulder and wrist pain could be due to setup... have you had a proper setup done before?

 

A nice air fork is always a good upgrade and makes the world of difference to handling but one thing for sure is dont blame the fork for the shoulder and wrist pain.

Are you not reaching a bit too far perhaps? How tall are you being on a large frame?

 

jy slaan die spyker op sy kop - im 1.85 and ive already had to put a 400mm seatpost on - next step adjustable stem...but i've heard from two bike shops that my bike is too small for me - cant afford a new one so i have to make do...

[lerouc]

Some softer grips might help as well (they did for me).

 

As to what to check for in a new fork... you would have to check if yours is tapered or not and try and measure your current fork's steerer length.

 

is there a way to see if it is tapered without taking apart?

[DR ◣◢]

1.85 is fine on a large.

 

First thing I would do is make sure the bar is angled correctly. If set wrong your wrists are strained and on long rides will fatigue a badly.

 

Next is to make sure your fork is set correctly. Reduce the preload all the way. Loosely attach a cable tie to the one stanction and get on the bike into your normal riding position. dont compress the fork.

 

Get of the bike and see how much the fork sagged. It should be around 15 to 20% of the total available travel. If more add more preload until the correct sag is achieved.

 

Most forks will allow you to adjust the rebound damping. Too slow and the fork wont decompress fast enough to get ready for the next bump. Too fast and the fork will pogo a bit also reducing its ability to absorb bumps correctly.

 

Next up you can look at thicker or thinner grips depending on how big your hands are. ESI Chunky grips are awesome and absorb a lot of the trail shudder too fine for a fork to absorb.

 

Check tyre pressure on the front.

[lerouc]

1.85 is fine on a large.

 

First thing I would do is make sure the bar is angled correctly. If set wrong your wrists are strained and on long rides will fatigue a badly.

 

Next is to make sure your fork is set correctly. Reduce the preload all the way. Loosely attach a cable tie to the one stanction and get on the bike into your normal riding position. dont compress the fork.

 

Get of the bike and see how much the fork sagged. It should be around 15 to 20% of the total available travel. If more add more preload until the correct sag is achieved.

 

Most forks will allow you to adjust the rebound damping. Too slow and the fork wont decompress fast enough to get ready for the next bump. Too fast and the fork will pogo a bit also reducing its ability to absorb bumps correctly.

 

Next up you can look at thicker or thinner grips depending on how big your hands are. ESI Chunky grips are awesome and absorb a lot of the trail shudder too fine for a fork to absorb.

 

Check tyre pressure on the front.

 

thanks ill check how far i can get with these

[MrJacques]

A tapered one will be wider at the bottom than the top, google for some images and you will see the difference. I'm taking a guess, but yours should be non-tapered on that model bike.

[shaper]

If you don't know the make of fork and cannot google it to find out the specification of whether it is straight or tapered, then look up you bike on www.bikepedia.com and it will give you the full spec of your bike, then you can find out more about your front fork.

 

You can then also find info on how to set the front fork up

[lerouc]

If you don't know the make of fork and cannot google it to find out the specification of whether it is straight or tapered, then look up you bike on www.bikepedia.com and it will give you the full spec of your bike, then you can find out more about your front fork.

 

You can then also find info on how to set the front fork up

 

schweet thanks!

[lerouc]

got this from the website:

 

 

XCM V3 HLO 26"

 

Recreational trail riding

 

• 120mm / 100mm / 80mm

• Coil spring

• Mechanical lock out

• Hydraulic damping

• Alloy bottom case

 

 

 

I.C.E.

N/A

 

 

Travel

80 or 100 or 120

 

 

System

Coil spring / Hydraulic Remote speed-lock

 

 

Lower

New alloy monocoque

 

 

Design

Leading axle

 

 

Dustseal

Metal inserted type

 

 

Leg Color

Gloss black, Matt black, White w/ heat transfer type decals

 

 

Crown

Alloy

 

 

Pitch

130mm

 

 

Integrated HD

Semi ID type / 44mm

 

 

Stanchion tube

STKM

 

 

Stanchion tube finish

CP finish

 

 

Finish

Black

 

 

Right Side

Hydraulic lock-out cartridge

 

 

Left Side

Coil spring

 

 

Steerer tube

STKM

 

 

Length (w/o thread)

255

 

 

Crown race diameter

30

 

 

Wheel size

26"

 

 

Brake

Disc (Post mount type: for 160mm direct mount) & V-brake type

 

 

Preload adjuster

Yes

 

 

Diameter

30mm

 

 

Note

Disc only type bottom case available

 

 

Weight

2650g

max. disc diameter

185mm

[GLuvsMtb]

Go for a proper bike fitting

If pain still persist go and see a physiotherapist to evaluate your shoulder problem. It may be something that could be sorted out with a bit of proper stretching or development of the correct muscles you may find a more sustainable solution to your problem.

[Dirtbreath]

 

 

jy slaan die spyker op sy kop - im 1.85 and ive already had to put a 400mm seatpost on - next step adjustable stem...but i've heard from two bike shops that my bike is too small for me - cant afford a new one so i have to make do...

If you cant afford a new bike you will find upgrading your fork not a very economical option either. You will undoubtedly find it cheaper or similar to get a correct sized frame and work on your posture/strength and get set up properly.

[awesme]

second third fourth,

 

get a proper bike fitting done like ergofit.

 

G

 

Go for a proper bike fitting

If pain still persist go and see a physiotherapist to evaluate your shoulder problem. It may be something that could be sorted out with a bit of proper stretching or development of the correct muscles you may find a more sustainable solution to your problem.