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Posted

mm is a measure of LENGTH - not VOLUME... try ml - short for millilitres.... :)

 

I guess that depends, because maybe he was talking about a syringe... then you can get 3mm... and he did talk about "injecting"...

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Posted

I guess that depends, because maybe he was talking about a syringe... then you can get 3mm... and he did talk about "injecting"...

 

a 3mm long needle.... short and thin... tfu for grease - but syringes ONLY come in volume measures...

Posted (edited)

JB

 

Are you seriously happy with any old grease you can buy at Midas?

 

By that measure you could also say forget the 5W30 at R100/L (I need nine for my oil change on my 4.2l V8) just give me any old oil at Midas.

 

It could save me a few bob or blow my engine. :eek:

 

Good oil is good oil. Good grease is good grease.

 

Is there a difference in quality and performance.

 

I am not even sure I could measure the differance in performance.

 

The topic is which grease to use.

 

My opinion is use the best you can afford and 460 is the one I vote for.

 

orsum

Edited by orsum
Posted

Second hand syringe needles are supposed to be destroyed by medical practices, not given away as grease guns... if you do manage to get one, then sterilise it properly before using it - just in case you cut yourself with it or stick it in yourself - pouring a kettle of boiling water over it should be good enough.

 

You can also consider blunting the needle on a fine stone before you use it too, and store it with a cork stuck on the needle.

 

and PLEASE - KEEP it OUT of reach of kids....

 

There used to be disposable syringes made by ONCE. They had an O-ring plunger instead of the solid soft plastic plungers. They work very well as an oiler with a blunted thick syringe. The big rubber plungers get hard and brittle with the oil but the O-ring syringes workx all the time. Can you still get these ONCE syringes.

 

I also use this oiler, worx very well.....

post-24908-0-93139700-1379413856_thumb.jpg

Posted

I bought el cheapo grease guns with a chainreaction.com order, those that take the tubes of grease. No 1 has Park Grease...... Just because I had it, no 2 has white molybdenum grease for the freehubs and STi's and no 3 has copper slip...... Just to poison everything around me.

 

el cheapo grease guns.........

post-24908-0-75546800-1379414626_thumb.jpg

Posted

The ONCE syringes....

 

I am pretty sure you can still get those - just where exactly I don't know - but disposable syringes are so cheap and easy to get these days it's hardly worth worrying.

 

Needles are another story entirely.....

Posted

JB

 

Are you seriously happy with any old grease you can buy at Midas?

 

By that measure you could also say forget the 5W30 at R100/L (I need nine for my oil change on my 4.2l V8) just give me any old oil at Midas.

 

It could save me a few bob or blow my engine. :eek:

 

Good oil is good oil. Good grease is good grease.

 

Is there a difference in quality and performance.

 

I am not even sure I could measure the differance in performance.

 

The topic is which grease to use.

 

My opinion is use the best you can afford and 460 is the one I vote for.

 

orsum

 

Very much different mechanisms at stake here. The effort exerted by bicycles does not warrant any specialised lubricants.

Posted (edited)

JB

 

Are you seriously happy with any old grease you can buy at Midas?

 

By that measure you could also say forget the 5W30 at R100/L (I need nine for my oil change on my 4.2l V8) just give me any old oil at Midas.

 

It could save me a few bob or blow my engine. :eek:

 

Good oil is good oil. Good grease is good grease.

 

Is there a difference in quality and performance.

 

I am not even sure I could measure the differance in performance.

 

The topic is which grease to use.

 

My opinion is use the best you can afford and 460 is the one I vote for.

 

orsum

 

There is a very big difference between your V8 and your bicycle. Your V8 engine, for instance, does around 4000rpm ave take that over an 3hour drive, and you get a whole lot of cycles. The are also more factors in your V*, like heat and pressure, that speeds up wear and tear. You cannot compare that with your bicycle.

 

Your wheels turn at roughly 120rpm, with a very low load factor and no heat (or should I say neglectable), calculate that over a 3 hour ride and compare then, remember, a bearings life is measured in cycles, not km or hours. Most bikes bearings are over designed, this is to make it simpler and stay with industry standard sizes. The only thing that will cause the wear to be aggravated, is if you wash with strong soap, directly on the bearings, where it could pass the seals or if you use pressure washers, that could force sand and water into the grease.

 

But to answer the OP's question and as JB said, almost any midas grease can be used. I usually take the grease that you get in the packets with car wheel bearings.

Edited by JA-Q001
Posted

 

My opinion is use the best you can afford cut cut cut cut.

 

 

That's a foolish philosophy. Firstly, how do you know what is best? The most expensive? Secondly, what is wrong with good enough? Or, what's wrong with appropriate?

 

My car needs 20W50. I can afford virgin synthetic 5W wharra-wharra oil at R300/l but why would I do it?

 

The world needs more customers like you.

Posted (edited)

 

I have a plan. Lets do an experiment. We start with a fresh wheel - a front one since the bearings on both sides are equally exposed. We fit new bearing balls and use your grease on the one side and any old grease on the other side. Upon assembly, we inject 3mm of water into each side. We then go for a 20km ride and examine both sides. I say they will both be equally emulsified. You say the one will be better off than the other.

 

I see that you are in George. You will have to nominate a credible witness for this side of the world.

 

I have a better plan, let's rather just rely on common sense and the fact that even if water-resistant grease is only marginally more resistant to water than normal grease it is still better able to cope with water and that's enough motivation for me.

 

And Yamaha makes good products, a 500g tub of blue water resistant grease is only R68 and will last me about 10yrs or so of bike maintenance. Don't need a maths degree to make a quick decision that opting for the water resistant grease is probably a sensible plan from a financial standpoint and the fact that grease specifically with the property of water-resistance is widely specified by engineers in countless aquatic and industrial applications in both high speed & heat and low speed low temperature situations is good enough basis for me.

 

As with anything if Midas grease makes you personally happy then go with it.

I personally have found lower to middle of the range products from reputable brands are normally the best value for money and make me happy :)

 

Edited by Skylark
Posted

That's a foolish philosophy. Firstly, how do you know what is best? The most expensive? Secondly, what is wrong with good enough? Or, what's wrong with appropriate?

 

My car needs 20W50. I can afford virgin synthetic 5W wharra-wharra oil at R300/l but why would I do it?

 

The world needs more customers like you.

:clap: :clap: :clap:

Well said

Al I can add to this is:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/There's_a_sucker_born_every_minute

Posted

Cost mmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

I do not like paying for anything let alone oil and grease.

When it comes to my car I look at OEM recommendations for lubrication. They say I could use a cheaper / lower grade oil but I could also go for a so called better grade I decided to go for the most expensive / better grade.

So when I buy a bike which is costing me a small fortune and I can find nothing from Giant to tell me what to use I don’t mind getting advice from others, I also don’t mind calling in a technical specialist to my work place who works for a well-known company and ask for his technical advice.

Hence I will use 460 and willingly paying for a so called expensive grease.

 

If I am being screwed then so be it. One thing is for sure I am trying to do the best for my bike.

orsum

Posted

Cost mmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

I do not like paying for anything let alone oil and grease.

 

When it comes to my car I look at OEM recommendations for lubrication. They say I could use a cheaper / lower grade oil but I could also go for a so called better grade I decided to go for the most expensive / better grade.

 

So when I buy a bike which is costing me a small fortune and I can find nothing from Giant to tell me what to use I don’t mind getting advice from others, I also don’t mind calling in a technical specialist to my work place who works for a well-known company and ask for his technical advice.

 

Hence I will use 460 and willingly paying for a so called expensive grease.

 

If I am being screwed then so be it. One thing is for sure I am trying to do the best for my bike.

 

orsum

 

Even the slightest suspicion that you are not caring well for your bike and you will be reported to the Department of Bicycle Welfare....... capice??????

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