MTBc Posted August 7, 2013 Share 1x10 is great, you don't need to be a world cup XCO racer, first ran 1x9 in 2010 (with a chain guide) love it even more now without the clutter of a chain guide with my wolf ring..... No chain dropping on the wolf ring without a guide? Been looking at the longer teethed (?) rings, but still nervous about not getting a guide with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Smoovf Posted August 7, 2013 Share You don't need a chainguide when using the wolftooth chainrings. A clutch type derailleur is recommended but with my past race and from other reviews it just serves as extra insurance if you have correctly done the chain tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted August 7, 2013 Share Also need to mention that the race was done on a HT, which I think makes it even more impressive that the chains stayed on without the clutch derailer. A HT will hold chain tension better than a DS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Smoovf Posted August 8, 2013 Share This is my lady. She is a bit more working class than the other examples, but she still gets my rocks off. Also tried to get her as Ninja black as possible. Skylark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted August 8, 2013 Share That's a tiny chain ring! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fandacious Posted August 8, 2013 Share what size front chainring you all running? currently my 2x10 is 26/39, but I never use small blade, so i'm thinking of getting a 39 wolf tooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 8, 2013 Share That's a tiny chain ring!looks like a 30... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted August 8, 2013 Share looks like a 30...Yeah, maybe it's the fact that it's so close to the 'spider' arms that it looks tiny... although... 30... is tiny... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted August 8, 2013 Share what size front chainring you all running? currently my 2x10 is 26/39, but I never use small blade, so i'm thinking of getting a 39 wolf tooth On my 1*9 I use a 32 (Probably because they are on most triples ...) with an 11-34 cassette. Find it ok for most riding ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 8, 2013 Share Yeah, maybe it's the fact that it's so close to the 'spider' arms that it looks tiny... although... 30... is tiny... lol. yeah. I'm running a 32 on my steed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Smoovf Posted August 8, 2013 Share Hi. I have a 30 on there. My normal route at Tygerberg has a 26% gradient and I based the chainring size on that........for now. The more I ride, and stronger i get, the more I will consider going 32 or 34. But for now, with my 11-36 cluster and the type of rider and riding that I do, it is perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Smoovf Posted August 8, 2013 Share BTW, on my commute this morning I was able to comfortably pedal at 35km/h and do 40km/h at a Froomelike cadence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowta Posted August 8, 2013 Share I should be getting a 34 tooth on Monday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaco-fiets Posted September 17, 2013 Share So what is final consensus about converting 2x10 to 1x10 and what rations I currently have a 2 x 10 XTR 11-36 back and 26/38 front. I still use the 36 back and 26 fronts on steep climbs now and then. Which woolftooth chainring would you guys suggest?I it necessary to do the cassette conversion or can I keep the 11/36?I don't have a clutch RD. Do I need one if I change to woolf chainring? What about the chainguide? I did read entire thread. Using a 34 up front and a 11/36 back means you are a seriously strong rider in my opinion. I'm wondering if the 32 up front would not also be too grueling on the climbs Looking forward to comments Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share So what is final consensus about converting 2x10 to 1x10 and what rations I currently have a 2 x 10 XTR 11-36 back and 26/38 front. I still use the 36 back and 26 fronts on steep climbs now and then. Which woolftooth chainring would you guys suggest?I it necessary to do the cassette conversion or can I keep the 11/36?I don't have a clutch RD. Do I need one if I change to woolf chainring? What about the chainguide? I did read entire thread. Using a 34 up front and a 11/36 back means you are a seriously strong rider in my opinion. I'm wondering if the 32 up front would not also be too grueling on the climbs Looking forward to comments that's what I have at the moment. 32 and only a 32, with an 11-34 at the back. If I can make it up the climbs, to the mast in Tokai, on my Reign X (yes, I have done it a few times) in my state (overweight - 102kg and unfit) then you can, Jaco. To put it in perspective - I'm pedalling 125kg up the hill EVERY TIME I go out. 15kg bike. 102kg me. 8kg gear, water & camelbak, helmet shoes etc. If I can do that with a 32 tooth, 11-34 at the back, then it's more than sufficient. I have a 34 in the post. It's time to HTFU, mate. Jaco-fiets 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share oh. And on the clutch RD thing - I have a 34t Raceface narrow / wide chainring (their equiv of XX1) in the post. I have a 9sp X0 non clutch RD. I ride rocky rooty tech stuff like a plonker, so if it's gonna cme off it'll be when I ride. I will report back once I've ridden it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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