FSA Crank vs. Others.

[Neg]

im busy with a New build- XTC 29er. what i would like to know form the guys who know is how does the FSA MTB crank- this one- http://www.fullspeed...TRIPLE-Crankset compare to the likes of XT or XO? it will be a tripple 44 32 24.

 

From what i can see the FSA is the lightest but that is the least of my concern. i would like to know who uses one and how durable are they? Spares prices and who is best to go to for spares.

 

thanks allot!

[JGR]

Ive got a set of these - dont know what the comparison would be but the work a treat and ive had no issues so cant comment of spares

[kosmonooit]

I got a 3x10 FSA K-Force light crank off CRC for my Scalpel 650b build, its made excellently and fitted well. Later had some chain suck issues, on trolling the net found that others had issues with FSA chainrings, so changed them to Raceface, so far there in an improvement

 

Must also get into the habit off checking the self extracting bolt regularly, it came loose up a mountain once.

[quintonb]

Nice looking crank. Just make sure spare chain rings and BB are readily available.

IMO I would stick with XT, bulletproof groupset. But that just me.

[kosmonooit]

Chain rings on most models are standard and interchangeable, so is the BB.

 

But they do have some models with their proprietary chain rings fitting, so check that out, takes a bit of digging to get that info,

[Masterlink1]

I had the same crank on my 26er. Lasted about 5000km before the pedal lug came loose in the one crank arm. Pedal flopped around. I only weigh 78kgs. Is possible I klapped the pedal on a rock as well. Was about a 2008 model of the crank so may have changed. Also do some homework on chainring replacement cost and durability. Genuine FSA stuff can be costly. Same with XT though.

[Neg]

Great info guys,

Masterlink, thats what im worried about that the carbon give and the parts spin. i know with the the XT the pedals are turned into the metal crank arm and cant "strip" unless something bad happens. but a few serious knocks on the crank will do nothing.

 

Maybe i should just stick with what i know, i don't really feel like running around trying to "make it work" with other parts etc....

[Lone_Ranger]

I've got this crank on my bike, and it's great. Genuine FSA replacement chain rings are expensive though, so probably going to get an alternative brand.

 

Only downside, and I suspect its the same for all carbon cranks, is that it doesn't take knocks very well. The ends of mine have taken a bit of a beating due to poor technique through some rock gardens. I'd suggest buying some crank socks (I think thats what they called) to protect the ends of these if you get it. Also get some adhesive film to protect the side from rubbing.

 

I read somewhere that this is one of the reasons that Shimano sticks with aluminium for their mtb cranks. As Ali takes knocks a bit better than carbon.

Edited August 6, 2013 by Lone_Ranger

[kosmonooit]

There's not much carbon on any Shimano parts, perhaps a mindset problem?

 

I really don't think anyone should be worried about (most )carbon cranks falling apart. As for those nicks, think of it as a patina.

 

Been reading about the use of carbon in jet engines .. as turbine blades! Laminated with Ti though in most applications.

[Tjokkits]

riding mine since 2006 many many km's changed chainrings few times was quite pricy, BB think one can use others i have a dura ace (yep....) on mine currently. great crank, carbon looks a bit tired with all the beatings but works 100%