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Wheel flex


Pieter1

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To the OP, you don't say what bike it is. While the wheel may be at fault, there is a chance that frame flex may also be at fault.

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To the OP, you don't say what bike it is. While the wheel may be at fault, there is a chance that frame flex may also be at fault.

Oh... Its a on one Inbred xl.
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Oh... Its a on one Inbred xl.

 

Steel is real. But it also could be flexing a bit too much for what you're running.

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JB - if the spokes are loose, the wheel will flex. Your post is misleading as it assumes that there will ALWAYS be tension in the spokes. Sometimes this is not the case, and this needs to be checked out.

 

OP - also have a look at the rear hub's bearings. Depending on what they are, they could be worn to the point that they are causing lateral motion in the wheel itself, through no fault of the spokes, meaning the wheel isn't so much flexing as shifting position around busted bearings.

 

Also look at the axle's cone, to check if that's tight enough (if your hub has cup & cone bearings) - if it's loose, it'll have the same effect as busted bearings, in that the wheel will shift laterally and give the impression of flex.

 

Another one to look out for is the QR - is it tight enough? A loose QR could give the impression of flex, and will cause problems when stuff gets "real"

 

Lastly - do not tighten the cones too much, as it could end up in a few crushed ball bearings, which would NOT be good for your riding karma.

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JB - if the spokes are loose, the wheel will flex. Your post is misleading as it assumes that there will ALWAYS be tension in the spokes. Sometimes this is not the case, and this needs to be checked out.

 

OP - also have a look at the rear hub's bearings. Depending on what they are, they could be worn to the point that they are causing lateral motion in the wheel itself, through no fault of the spokes, meaning the wheel isn't so much flexing as shifting position around busted bearings.

 

Also look at the axle's cone, to check if that's tight enough (if your hub has cup & cone bearings) - if it's loose, it'll have the same effect as busted bearings, in that the wheel will shift laterally and give the impression of flex.

 

Another one to look out for is the QR - is it tight enough? A loose QR could give the impression of flex, and will cause problems when stuff gets "real"

 

Lastly - do not tighten the cones too much, as it could end up in a few crushed ball bearings, which would NOT be good for your riding karma.

Awesome! Thanks! I have just had the hub serviced so I reccon it is in good nic. I'll check the spokes and qr. Shot for the help! The frame can take a 2.4 tire, I have a 2.2 on the back. If the other suggestions dont fix it I'll put on a smaller tire.
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Awesome! Thanks! I have just had the hub serviced so I reccon it is in good nic. I'll check the spokes and qr. Shot for the help! The frame can take a 2.4 tire, I have a 2.2 on the back. If the other suggestions dont fix it I'll put on a smaller tire.

 

Don't compensate. Have a chomie swop out a wheel with he's/her's see the result. If still persists! You should be fine running that tyre. I too highly doubt it the frame that flexes, not that much...

 

 

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I noticed flex in my wheels of my Specialized, and spent a long time looking at the rims and the build and tightening the pivots and plucking at spokes.

 

After some time I found out the suspension pivots were worn on the back end and the flex was being caused by the pivot on the LHS moving forward when the RHS was still okay. Replaced the pivots and the problem went away...

 

Use it, don't use it ....

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I noticed flex in my wheels of my Specialized, and spent a long time looking at the rims and the build and tightening the pivots and plucking at spokes.

 

After some time I found out the suspension pivots were worn on the back end and the flex was being caused by the pivot on the LHS moving forward when the RHS was still okay. Replaced the pivots and the problem went away...

 

Use it, don't use it ....

 

Cool, except that this is a steel hardtail.... :)

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I noticed flex in my wheels of my Specialized, and spent a long time looking at the rims and the build and tightening the pivots and plucking at spokes.

 

After some time I found out the suspension pivots were worn on the back end and the flex was being caused by the pivot on the LHS moving forward when the RHS was still okay. Replaced the pivots and the problem went away...

 

Use it, don't use it ....

 

Unfortunately it doesn't help him, as he has a hardtail

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Don't compensate. Have a chomie swop out a wheel with he's/her's see the result. If still persists! You should be fine running that tyre. I too highly doubt it the frame that flexes, not that much...

Sounds like a plan. I REALLY dont want a skinny tire on there...
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Awesome! Thanks! I have just had the hub serviced so I reccon it is in good nic. I'll check the spokes and qr. Shot for the help! The frame can take a 2.4 tire, I have a 2.2 on the back. If the other suggestions dont fix it I'll put on a smaller tire.

 

Don't always trust that the mech did a good job - on my old hardtail, the hub was serviced and CV joint grease was put in in place of wheel bearing grease.

 

Needless to say, a few rides later the hub was toast. I only found out that it was CV joint grease when I took it apart myself to find this black, gritty gloop all over the bearings.

 

At that point, I just bought a new wheelset. The rims were k4k anyway, and the hubs weren't suited to my riding style (heffalump)

Edited by cpt armpies mayhem
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Don't always trust that the mech did a good job - on my old hardtail, the hub was serviced and CV joint grease was put in in place of wheel bearing grease.

 

Needless to say, a few rides later the hub was toast. I only found out that it was CV joint grease when I took it apart myself to find this black, gritty gloop all over the bearings.

 

At that point, I just bought a new wheelset. The rims were k4k anyway, and the hubs weren't suited to my riding style (heffalump)

Also true.
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my 2 lateral cents worth....

 

Big tires on narrow rims leads to a squishy/flexy ride, as the rim cant support the Tyre body well.

 

And skewers - get the best, not the lightest. Small amounts of flex at the skewers (center) equals big movements at the edge of the circumference of the wheel.

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JB - if the spokes are loose, the wheel will flex. Your post is misleading as it assumes that there will ALWAYS be tension in the spokes. Sometimes this is not the case, and this needs to be checked out.

 

OP - also have a look at the rear hub's bearings. Depending on what they are, they could be worn to the point that they are causing lateral motion in the wheel itself, through no fault of the spokes, meaning the wheel isn't so much flexing as shifting position around busted bearings.

 

Also look at the axle's cone, to check if that's tight enough (if your hub has cup & cone bearings) - if it's loose, it'll have the same effect as busted bearings, in that the wheel will shift laterally and give the impression of flex.

 

Another one to look out for is the QR - is it tight enough? A loose QR could give the impression of flex, and will cause problems when stuff gets "real"

 

Lastly - do not tighten the cones too much, as it could end up in a few crushed ball bearings, which would NOT be good for your riding karma.

 

Misleading?

 

If the spokes are loose, the wheel will rattle, not flex. Movement that's not against spoke tension is not flex. Obviously there should be spoke tension and that's assumed and I've explained it many times here. A search will show you. I can't cover my answers for absurd scenarios.

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