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Shifting problems???


BarHugger

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How can a bike shop miss something like this? After getting a new rear sproket (casette), chain (also with big chain rings) and cabling, the changing of gears was not a smooth as before. I was told alot of stuff that seemed to have merrit why there will initially be some problems. Main problems was that down shifting would not go all the way and that the chain will stay in a gear and then suddenly jump to another without me even changing gears. A nice problem to have when negotiating a rocky climb. Getting fed up with all this and not being able to get the problem solved by the people who make a living out of it, I tackled the problem. Found a Bottom Bracket cable guide with a "new and thighter" groove for the cable. No wonder the cable could not glide/move/release properly. Freakin awesome dud(e)s.

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Edited by BarHugger
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Supposedly one of the better LBS groups in Pretoria. Post is however to highlight that such a simple piece of equipment can affect the functioning of a very precise bike piece (rear derailleur) and lead to unnecessary frustration.

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Supposedly one of the better LBS groups in Pretoria. Post is however to highlight that such a simple piece of equipment can affect the functioning of a very precise bike piece (rear derailleur) and lead to unnecessary frustration.

 

*** job by the LBS, part of the reason I do my own maintenance.

 

While you're fixing the problem, do yourself a favour and run full gear housing and basically bypass that problem

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*** job by the LBS, part of the reason I do my own maintenance.

 

While you're fixing the problem, do yourself a favour and run full gear housing and basically bypass that problem

 

Thanks for the advice, will do. Usually do my own stuff, but when time is a problem one consults the professionals. Only became aware of this after dismantling the whole rear derailleur system - from shifters right through to hanger (because there is time with the cold weekend and Van Gaalens is in two weeks).

Edited by BarHugger
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That would have me break down shop doors,..bike shops just don't flow along the same veins than us bike owners when it comes to taking care of our bikes, they just don't..

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Just finished Dome2Dome with only 5 gears. Bike went to LBS for service (including setting the Di2 shifting - I havnt figured it out yet). Got the bike , didnt go for I ride due to time limitations (my bad). Before startline realised it wont shift onto big wheel. I thought about not starting and decided to HTFU and ride. I looked like some moron spinning away in A bunch and got dropped on a DOWNHILL (****)! Some words will be said tmrw...

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Just finished Dome2Dome with only 5 gears. Bike went to LBS for service (including setting the Di2 shifting - I havnt figured it out yet). Got the bike , didnt go for I ride due to time limitations (my bad). Before startline realised it wont shift onto big wheel. I thought about not starting and decided to HTFU and ride. I looked like some moron spinning away in A bunch and got dropped on a DOWNHILL (****)! Some words will be said tmrw...

 

Theatre of the mind moment - ha,ha,ha. What was playing on your iPod? - GOING NOWHERE SLOWLY by the Spinning Tops?

 

But seriously, I would be more than grumpy. Another Pta bike shop involved if your profile is correct? Whats up, are they trying to mimic a recent USN Mtb Cup race wrt proficiency and excellence?

 

Just as bad as a "cracked" Land Rover! :-@

Edited by BarHugger
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How can a bike shop miss something like this? After getting a new rear sproket (casette), chain (also with big chain rings) and cabling, the changing of gears was not a smooth as before. I was told alot of stuff that seemed to have merrit why there will initially be some problems. Main problems was that down shifting would not go all the way and that the chain will stay in a gear and then suddenly jump to another without me even changing gears. A nice problem to have when negotiating a rocky climb. Getting fed up with all this and not being able to get the problem solved by the people who make a living out of it, I tackled the problem. Found a Bottom Bracket cable guide with a "new and thighter" groove for the cable. No wonder the cable could not glide/move/release properly. Freakin awesome dud(e)s.

 

As agreed this is wrong.

 

But what I found in my limited experience, a lot of frames come out with the rear mech cable guides(routing) on the right hand side or drivetrain side of the frame and the front mech on the left. While awso not being incorrect ita just looks much neater, to run the rear mech around the left side of the frame and the front mech on the right. In some cases, recently experienced on a Spec SL3, the cables cross at the downtube. Was this not the case? If so then there is a little sympathy for the above LBS.

 

Hubber TheV would blow a top if they didn't cross at the headtube

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How can a bike shop miss something like this? After getting a new rear sproket (casette), chain (also with big chain rings) and cabling, the changing of gears was not a smooth as before. I was told alot of stuff that seemed to have merrit why there will initially be some problems. Main problems was that down shifting would not go all the way and that the chain will stay in a gear and then suddenly jump to another without me even changing gears. A nice problem to have when negotiating a rocky climb. Getting fed up with all this and not being able to get the problem solved by the people who make a living out of it, I tackled the problem. Found a Bottom Bracket cable guide with a "new and thighter" groove for the cable. No wonder the cable could not glide/move/release properly. Freakin awesome dud(e)s.

Yeah i learnt long ago to do my own bike stuff. Had similar with my merida bike. Found dirt got i to the same spot and cleaning it and spot of q20 worked well. Those plastic guides were never the best invention..... Glad you solved it but sadly asking for your money back or trying to question the LBS's wisdom never seems to help

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As agreed this is wrong.

 

But what I found in my limited experience, a lot of frames come out with the rear mech cable guides(routing) on the right hand side or drivetrain side of the frame and the front mech on the left. While awso not being incorrect ita just looks much neater, to run the rear mech around the left side of the frame and the front mech on the right. In some cases, recently experienced on a Spec SL3, the cables cross at the downtube. Was this not the case? If so then there is a little sympathy for the above LBS.

 

Hubber TheV would blow a top if they didn't cross at the headtube

 

Nothing strange and out of the ordinary with the setup, all sandard and straight forward. Even equipment is not top shelve - SRAM X7. Trying to keep it as reliable and simple as possible (without going the minimalistic route). The LBS sevice however sometimes seem to be minimalistic and you must cope for 70km not getting in your stride.

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Feedback on OP:

 

Visited 5 of the well-known LBS in Pta for replacement BB cable guide. None of them even stocked such a replacement or similar part. No wonder it was not replaced. Completely cut through by cable. However, got helped at Solomon's (Gift Acres Centre - new bike shop of choice). Not original part, but something that can do the job for now. Urgently need to get some time in the saddle. Will do a full conversion of cabling after Van Gaalens. Now for some fine tuning of the FD and RD.

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Gears.... Such a headache.

 

But if you continue to persist with such silliness I would suggest full length cable housing.

 

works wonders in the mud and the fine dust too.

 

I suppose bike shops miss things sometimes. Before thehub and social media nobody could tell anybody but their buddies but now word gets around more.

 

Its never nice to get bad service anywhere and I am super impressed you didn't name and shame. You have my respect (for a guy who complained about his GEARS that's quite something! hahaha)

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You have my respect (for a guy who complained about his GEARS that's quite something! hahaha)

 

Ditto - first to acknowledge that my GEARS lack adequate capacity for SS, so I need options. Cabling recommendation is a given. Thanks

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This is why it is imperative that a senior mechanic(experienced) test rides the bike after maintenance. I also have changed to full housing and this type of problem is now a thing of the past. Testing the bike in a bike stand does not apply the range of stress that riding will do.

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