Gears skipping/slipping

[DR ◣◢]

Thanks, for the advice does the hanger need to be checked by a bike shop, I've read around, some people say you have to use a tool others say you can lay it on a flat surface... What do you think?

 

That is the one bit on the bike I would leave to a good mechanic to sort out. Happy to tinker with my own bike but I just don't feel comfortable telling you to try stuff on a part that can break.

[Craigwt]

So the cassette and chain are both brand new? How are the front chainrings? Slippage like you described normally happens with new/worn drivetrain components mixed together - IF everything else is aligned and adjusted properly.

 

Could also be ghost shifting if it's a suspension bike.

Ah, this might be it. The cassette is not new, but also not very old. When I used this cassette I would have spent very little time in the smallest cog on the back, causing it to be the least worn. Would the other, more worn out gears also be causing problems for me if this were it? Or are the little cogs perhaps the most sensitive?

 

Exactly what another hubber was experiencing with his Yeti. Up and down the street it was fine but as soon as the terrain changed a bit he would experience the skipping. His was on the upper range of the cassette though but still happened.

Did he find a fix?

 

I've just been troubleshooting my road bike wih the same problem! After anticipating a new cassette and chain purchase, I decided to give it a super clean and lube...

 

Just found my LBS replaced the quick link with a 8speed one on my ten speed chain.

 

Possibly something to check.

 

I'll check this as well, I did put a quicklink in, I ordered 10 speed, not sure if thats what they actually sent me.

[Mr X]

When I used this cassette I would have spent very little time in the smallest cog on the back, causing it to be the least worn. Would the other, more worn out gears also be causing problems for me if this were it? Or are the little cogs perhaps the most sensitive?

 

It should skip more on the most worn cogs.

[Craigwt]

Ok, so double checked the quick links, definitely 10 speed.

 

I had a little test up and down the street last night to try and reproduce the issue. Put the bike in its hardest gear, started pedalling and the first time I hit a smallish bump (small curved pavement) it slipped. Unfortunately after that I couldn't get it to happen again. I tried pedalling hard, slow, standing, sitting all the way around the block up and down pavements, over anything I could find and perfect, no slipping, no problems.... shifting up and down all the way through the gear range was perfect...

 

So... from cheapest to most expensive:

 

Reset derailleur, triple check everything

Double check cable, inner and routing to me sure nothing is hooking.

Take shock out to test if suspension travel causes issues.

Check derailleur hanger at bike shop.

New cassette.

New Bike.

 

Anything else I should check?

[Goodbadugly]

Isn't the derrailleur a short cage? Don't you need a longer caged jockey?

[Heel Drop]

Isn't the derrailleur a short cage? Don't you need a longer caged jockey?

def soemthing to check that the casette teeth count is in line with what the RD can take up

I also would put the bike on a stand put it in the smallest gear and then slowly turn the crank and see if you can see anything happening at the small ring at the back .

 

I did this once and could see the casette ring pushing up the chain a little before it drops in 100% into place and this can cause slippage.

What I did was to mark the spot in the small ring with a black marker and just took a little bit off the metal off the ring so the chain falls into place every time and not get pushed up

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

The RD is the right one, the chain is not too short.

 

What happened with mine to cause it to skip was that the quicklink was not QUITE fully closed, so it was very stiff and a "short link" - causing it to skip on just that one section of chain, in the smaller sprockets (chain needs to rotate more in order to get around the smaller radius, and the stiffness factor prevented that from happening - hence the skipping)

 

What your exuberant pedalling may have done for you is to pull the quicklink into the proper seated position, so that the chain could move freely. I wouldn't worry about it unless it carries on skipping, and then the first thing you should check is the quicklink and all other links to see if one is stiff or not.

 

The 10sp quicklink can be very stiff when you first put it on, which sometimes means that your link isn't inserted properly... and you need a bit of force to get it to seat.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

def soemthing to check that the casette teeth count is in line with what the RD can take up

 

 

wouldn't be an issue here as the problem is in the lower tooth ranges (11t & 13t) so the capacity isn't a factor.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Craig - also looks as if your RD's adjuster screw (the one that sits behind the RD and pushes up against the hanger) needs to be adjusted. There's too little space between the top roller and the cassette. That could be a contributing factor.

 

EDIT: On your second pic, it's the one you see on the left hand side just above the lower jockey wheel.

Edited November 4, 2013 by cpt armpies mayhem

[Craigwt]

Isn't the derrailleur a short cage? Don't you need a longer caged jockey?

 

I looked into this, many forums and the Sram website say that it works on a 36T cassette. http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-x9-type-2-10-speed-rear-derailleur

 

def soemthing to check that the casette teeth count is in line with what the RD can take up

I also would put the bike on a stand put it in the smallest gear and then slowly turn the crank and see if you can see anything happening at the small ring at the back .

 

I did this once and could see the casette ring pushing up the chain a little before it drops in 100% into place and this can cause slippage.

What I did was to mark the spot in the small ring with a black marker and just took a little bit off the metal off the ring so the chain falls into place every time and not get pushed up

 

Cool, I check this too, thanks

 

The RD is the right one, the chain is not too short.

 

What happened with mine to cause it to skip was that the quicklink was not QUITE fully closed, so it was very stiff and a "short link" - causing it to skip on just that one section of chain, in the smaller sprockets (chain needs to rotate more in order to get around the smaller radius, and the stiffness factor prevented that from happening - hence the skipping)

 

What your exuberant pedalling may have done for you is to pull the quicklink into the proper seated position, so that the chain could move freely. I wouldn't worry about it unless it carries on skipping, and then the first thing you should check is the quicklink and all other links to see if one is stiff or not.

 

The 10sp quicklink can be very stiff when you first put it on, which sometimes means that your link isn't inserted properly... and you need a bit of force to get it to seat.

 

Thanks man, will check it out when I get home...

[Craigwt]

So it turns out it was the "B-Tension" screw. I was stuck with what seems to be a common Sram rear der problem where you cant get the upper derailleur wheel anywhere near their recommended 6mm from the biggest ring at the back. I ended up backing the screw out all the way so that I could get as close as possible, this is what caused the problem. I turned the b screw back in until it all kinda looked right and now the problem is gone.... yey!

 

Just thought I'd share in case

[Jewbacca]

Are the pawls slipping in the ratchet?

 

So its not chain slip but the free hub engagement slipping?

 

Its a quick fix