NicoBoshoff Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 Awesome ride, but do you really need the frk lockout? The extra cable is just so unneccessary. Nicko 1
Nicko Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 Awesome ride, but do you really need the frk lockout? The extra cable is just so unneccessary. Valid point, I'll think about that. I may do some endurance races on this bike, so it may come in handy... But taking it off is not a bad idea at all. Thanks
NicoBoshoff Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Valid point, I'll think about that. I may do some endurance races on this bike, so it may come in handy... But taking it off is not a bad idea at all. Thanks Yeah look, it's not hard or dangerous reaching down to set the lock-out (if you even will do that) on long distance rides since the terrain won't knock you off so readily. In Enduro races you will NEVER lock out. It's just another cable that can snag and it's ruining great looks. Nicko 1
Nicko Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Yeah look, it's not hard or dangerous reaching down to set the lock-out (if you even will do that) on long distance rides since the terrain won't knock you off so readily. In Enduro races you will NEVER lock out. It's just another cable that can snag and it's ruining great looks. Good advice, consider it done! I'm already sweating just thinking about taking the ESI grip off to get the lockout off, pain in the a** Edited January 28, 2014 by Nicko
Steven Knoetze (sk27) Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Good advice, consider it done! I'm already sweating just thinking about taking the ESI grip off to get the lockout off, pain in the a**Â Not really, stanley knife and it comes right off
Nicko Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 Not really, stanley knife and it comes right off  Lol I'd prefer to keep them in one piece if possible. I use a flat screwdriver to lift them up and then spray windowlene underneath, it works but still a pain in the ass, and I don't have a compressor. Any other suggestions welcome
Steven Knoetze (sk27) Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) I managed to get mine off and reuse them by shoving a thick cable tie and then just twisting and wrenching on the grip. Came off quite easily.Your method sounds good, the windowlene will just evaporate as it's mostly just alchohol. Edited January 28, 2014 by sk27
Nicko Posted July 22, 2014 Author Posted July 22, 2014 I know this thread is pretty old, but I figured I would put some of my bike updates on here... I've upgraded the front fork:Got a 2013 Rockshox Revelation RLT 140mm from CWC for R3k brand new, what a steal. Nearly half kilo lighter than the Sektor DPC as well... And just yesterday I finally managed to get a dropper post. Picked up a pretty new KS Lev here on the forum for a good price.So I fitted that last night, now I just gotta go try it out. RockCoach, Hairy and Headshot 3
Nicko Posted July 22, 2014 Author Posted July 22, 2014 Still a few things I would like to consider updating... Running a 60mm stem and 720mm barsWould like to maybe go down to 30mm stem or there arounds, and a 760mm bar.  Gearing, I want to get a 42t cog for the cassette, and then change my front from 32t to 34t.At the moment I don't have enough spread on the gears, but it's been generally fine for enduro race runs. Its just the climbing mostly that I can't do. Thinking of upsizing the brakes a bit. Wanna go 180mm on the back, currently 180mm on the front and thinking that 203mm may be a bit overkill... not too sure!
(Deon) Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 The clean lines and the Haven wheels work well. I love those wheels!! Yeah, the 203 will likely be overkill for the weight it adds. 180 at the back is also largely unnessasary but this all depends on the bite from the brakes. If they are a bit underpowered you may want to look at bleeding first and as a last resort, larger rotor. Nicko 1
Nicko Posted July 22, 2014 Author Posted July 22, 2014 The clean lines and the Haven wheels work well. I love those wheels!! Yeah, the 203 will likely be overkill for the weight it adds. 180 at the back is also largely unnessasary but this all depends on the bite from the brakes. If they are a bit underpowered you may want to look at bleeding first and as a last resort, larger rotor. Thanks man... Yeah not really getting the performance out of them that I want, will bleed them this week and take it from there.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 SWEET! Deal on the Revelation. BTW - you won't find a 30mm stem in a hurry. The lowest they go is basically 40-45mm unless you go with one of the stems that fit on Mondrakers, in their Forward Geometry bikes. Reason being that at 30mm your bar would be taking a chunk of material out of your stem, unless it had a hectic rise on it (which mondraker stems do) As for the 203mm rotor - DOOO EEEET! I cannot tell you how much difference it made to my stopping power and modulation. And the weight penalty is minimal.
nigelhicks Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 180mm rotor on the front at max! ...160 rear is more than good enough 45 or 50mm stem with 750 bars! DONE Steven Knoetze (sk27) 1
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 180mm rotor on the front at max! ...160 rear is more than good enough 45 or 50mm stem with 750 bars! DONE Not everyone is built like a broom, Nige! Hairy, RockCoach, G00SE and 1 other 4
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