SRAM type 2 clutch RD

[Li Mu Bai]

keeping your chain fairly 'dirty' helps keep it in place too. Also not pedalling backwards (even to adjust both pedals to horizontal) makes a huge difference in a 1x10 setup, especially when you are in the 11 small sprocket.

 

Ultimately the safest setup is both type 2 and narrow/wide.

 

As I said, riding the BnB I had no drops on terrain much gnarlier than the flat Down&Dirty dirt dash - go figure.

you only need to drop a chain a few times in a race and loose several hard earned positions to decide that the extra spent on a n/w chainring or slightly cheaper chainkeeper is woth it.

Edited January 13, 2014 by Li Mu Bai

[Li Mu Bai]

MH: aah excellent reminder that consideration of all modes is crucial to a balanced perspective, and in that regard, that there are things such as HTs out there. I wouldn't hesitate getting a NW chainring for an HT.

 

Li Mu: where u riding an HT?

 

yes, full carbon On*One Lurcher 1x10

[Capricorn]

yes, full carbon On*One Lurcher 1x10

 

there we go. Now why didn't you say this upfront? It provides proper context for the OP to consider before pulling the trigger.

Edited January 13, 2014 by Capricorn

[Li Mu Bai]

snip ... Then again, i'm the same guy that has only ever used avid brakes, and cannot understand why the fuss about avid being **** and all. snip

 

I enjoy Avid brakes too. Have been using XO and Elixir 9R for 2 years now and they work great. easy to bleed.

Before that I used Formula Oro, also great and would be my first choice.

Before that Shimano deore, cant recall any issues either.

Edited January 13, 2014 by Li Mu Bai

[Li Mu Bai]

there we go. Now why didn't you say this upfront? It provides proper context for the OP to consider before pulling the trigger.

 

Well at the end of the day, the Type2 Clutch is the right choice for whatever bike you own.

[Bigjim]

Thanks for the feedback all, get a fair bit of chainslap noise, but no significant number of dropped chains so far with a type 1 X9. Most of my riding is Giba/ Karkloof so fairly, but not extreme tech. Considering the type 2 upgrade mainly for the noise factor.

[Skylark]

I reckon Clutch RD + shortest possible chain length(without chance of damaging the RD) nips the majority of chain drops even without a NW chainring. NW is like that water tight insurance scheme. I wonder how the cage length of the clutch rd affects the chance of dropping the chain, I suppose the shorter the cage the better?

[shade]

works like a bomb! ,heres feedback - i successfully converted from 3x9 to 1x10spd using a RaceFace chainring(EvoBikes) on my triple crank , and a Sram X9Type2 rear derailer(Evobikes) ...still trying my best to drop the chain..

[madmarc]

Changed mine from XO std to XO type 2. One of the best upgrades i did. No chainslap, very quiet and no chainsuck on the chainring when riding in very muddy conditions. I found XO very expensive though, so go X9 it's a lot cheaper and only slightly heavier but just as good.

[Peach.]

Thanks for the feedback all, get a fair bit of chainslap noise, but no significant number of dropped chains so far with a type 1 X9. Most of my riding is Giba/ Karkloof so fairly, but not extreme tech. Considering the type 2 upgrade mainly for the noise factor.

 

 

do it

I use to get a lot of chain slap, now it will tap every now and then on very rough stuff but doesn't even damage that plastic wrap o the frame.

I have managed to drop the chain once though

[Li Mu Bai]

Changed mine from XO std to XO type 2. One of the best upgrades i did. No chainslap, very quiet and no chainsuck on the chainring when riding in very muddy conditions. I found XO very expensive though, so go X9 it's a lot cheaper and only slightly heavier but just as good.

15 grams difference between the two. the weight of a good fart before setting out.