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Posted (edited)

If the BCD(space between the mounting holes) is the same it should work fine, you may need to file off a small amount on the inside of the Shimano rings to fit the SRAM spider but other than that should be good. I'm going to try this on my next set of chain rings.

 

 

Fixed, thanks Meezo

Edited by Skylark
Posted
If the BDC(space between the mounting holes) is the same it should work fine, you may need to file off a small amount on the inside of the Shimano rings to fit the SRAM spider but other than that should be good. I'm going to try this on my next set of chain rings

 

You mean BCD Bolt Circle Diameter .

 

The same concept applies for cars/mag wheels

Posted

Check the chainring thickness as well as this could result in the rings either being too close together or too far apart.

 

Both can result in misshifts.

 

I found TA Specialities rings were the best generic replacements for Shimano OEM rings

Posted

Thanks.

Any idea or name of manufacturers that make sram generics?

 

What BCD chainrings do you require.?

I may have some Sram Red compact 110BCD to sell.

Posted

Truvativ. Buy a level down if you worried about costs.

 

Truvativ = SRAM

 

And yes they are cross compatible with Shimano - but shifting my not work quite as well unless you replace the entire set - the ramps and pins are designed to work together.

Posted (edited)

 

Truvativ = SRAM

 

And yes they are cross compatible with Shimano - but shifting my not work quite as well unless you replace the entire set - the ramps and pins are designed to work together.

 

Droo how would the ramps and pins matter if you running 2 chainrings, small ring has no ramps or pins, only sometimes a flattened tooth every 180 degrees on some rings?

Granted I understand if you are running 3 rings the bigger 2 rings must be the same brand as there the matching ramps/pins between those 2 are important for quick shifting.

Edited by Skylark
Posted

Droo how would the ramps and pins matter if you running 2 chainrings, small ring has no ramps or pins, only sometimes a flattened tooth every 180 degrees on some rings?

Granted I understand if you are running 3 rings the bigger 2 rings must be the same brand as there the matching ramps/pins between those 2 are important for quick shifting.

 

SRAM sell their cranksets with specific chainring pairs - the bigger one always has 1.5x more teeth than the smaller one. This is so that the chain can engage both chainrings at the same time at the shifting points, which gives better shifting under load and makes it less likely that you'll snap a chain because of shifting like a clown.

 

Shimano - not sure. For 3x it's as you said above for both.

Posted

Halfway through a shift the chain's engaging teeth from both rings...

 

Skylar: even without knowing that, if the chain didn't engage the one ring before coming off the other completely, where do you think it would be sitting? The front mech can't hold the whole chain up.

  • 2 months later...

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