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Chain dropping with Shadow plus and RF n/w.


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I have complained before re dropped chains with my 1x10 set up. Its just got much worse which is strange because I rode and enduro without any problems last weekend.

 

I have started thinking about other options -

 

1. a short cage Zee derailleur

2. Csixx direct mount chain guide and

3 - a clutch service.

 

Apparently Shimano use a special friction grease in the clutch. All good options but in all three cases I cannot do anything yet becuase:

 

The Zees are only due in in July

Csixx has no stock with no ETA

Shimano agents have no grease

 

Do we live in a backwater or what? No wonder we go online. I can get a Zee here for less in a week from CRC.

 

As for the grease - any ideas on a replacement product. I must admit I am dubious about this fix...

 

We will have ZEE's in stock in 2weeks time. Price will be R950 each.

 

Also have FRM Carbon Chainring guides in stock for R995 each.

 

http://www.evobikes.co.za/frm/frm-chain-guide.html

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Not really - it was a bit damp at Tokai on Wednesday but not wet ie no mud or puddles.

 

I did notice that a brand new chain with the packing lube on it didn't drop at all and that the drops this week were on a slightly dirtier chain than normal.

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Had issues with a Race Face NW with a Zee derailure this past weekend on the Ndiza. Ended up putting the chain guide back on. My Zee RD definitely has less friction than the SRAM type 2 and I think this was the issue in my case. I know you can up the friction on the Zee's but I just never had time to figure it out. That said I think I may just revert back to a full guide or at least a top guide for complete peace of mind in future.

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I've only dropped mine once. Sram definitely seems to work better. That and I leave my chain ring nice and dirty so the chain sticks to it

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I've only dropped mine once. Sram definitely seems to work better. That and I leave my chain ring nice and dirty so the chain sticks to it

 

Maybe its your riding style?

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Well compared to this other guy I ride with sometimes who rides like a rampaging buffalo then you may have a point

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The clutch is not broken but feels less stiff when hand tested than it did initially. i'll check it out though and add grease if it looks dry as an experiment.

 

 

The clutch itself does not break but a little stainless steel bracket/clip and the clutch looses it's stiffness

I suspect that is your problem - google is your friend - I will post a link when I find it

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Okay,

 

So I am not going to read all the replies to see if it has been said. I have the exact same setup as you and my chain dropped for 2 reasons.

 

1. My Clutch tentioning spring [coil] was bent and it needed as service after Sabie. Did it myself, just record yourself taking it apart so you can go back and see if you have a few parts left when you reasemble.

 

2, My rear hub needed a service. It had a bit of friction on and kept pushing my chain forward when I free. So tech downhill [or ever tar surface] with an untensioned chain = Drop

 

Hope this helps :D

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Have you checked that the clutch is actually working - there is a clip that is known to break.

 

About the grease - its the mechanical parts that do the work not the grease - we have done repairs and just used general purpose grease and all is well. Broken part was replaced by Shimano.

 

Although it may seem like it, the grease is not the same. Yes grease is grease but the shimano grease has a lower viscosity and feels a lil bit "gritty"(lack of a better word). Normal grease may have worked in your case and maybe shall continue to work in some similar cases but it is always better to use what the manufacturer recommends as long we are not getting shafted.

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Just to iterate what some guys said in the beginning:

 

I run a 1x10 wolftooth n/w with an slx rear derailleur (no clutch) and yet to drop a chain. Did some reading when I converted and decided to remove 2 or 3 (cant remember) chain links (coming from a triple crankset) so that In the largest cog at the rear, the arm of the derailleur sits at 45 degrees to the vertical, pointing toward the front of the bike.

 

Not very scientific but it worked...

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Just to iterate what some guys said in the beginning:

 

I run a 1x10 wolftooth n/w with an slx rear derailleur (no clutch) and yet to drop a chain. Did some reading when I converted and decided to remove 2 or 3 (cant remember) chain links (coming from a triple crankset) so that In the largest cog at the rear, the arm of the derailleur sits at 45 degrees to the vertical, pointing toward the front of the bike.

 

Not very scientific but it worked...

 

worked in what way? what's your basis for comparison?

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