MTB - How long should a chain last?

[FlandersZA]

I realise this could be like asking how long is a piece of string due to there being a ton of variables like elevation gain/distance ratio, power output etc. but on average, how many kilometres should the average common or garden chain last?

 

I fear my noobness may have cost me dearly on this one. When I got my bike, someone told me that it was around 1500km. Yesterday I realised that my chain has done over 2000km so today I rushed out and bought one of them chain checker tool thingy mabobs. I would have bought a new chain as well but the LBS was out of stock. Turns out the tool is slotting into the 1% wear mark. I know this is not good but what now? Do I just get a new chain ASAP and hope for the best or am I likely looking at a damaged cassette/rings now as well?

 

The thing that boggles my mind is that I checked my friend's chain too and she has done a total of about 1100km and her chain is slotting the 1% wear mark too. Is this normal?

Edited June 13, 2014 by FlandersZA

[GaryvdM]

Chain life is mostly to do with how clean and well lube it is kept. Very little to do with power output.

 

Not sure exactly how much wear 1% is on your measuring tool. If possible, please could you measure your chain using this method: sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

[FlandersZA]

Chain life is mostly to do with how clean and well lube it is kept. Very little to do with power output.

 

Not sure exactly how much wear 1% is on your measuring tool. If possible, please could you measure your chain using this method: sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

 

Interesting, thanks! Well as you can tell I'm no expert on chains but I do tend to keep it lubed etc. The method you're talking about - I must be having a blonde moment but I don't see where he talks about measuring the chain - as in a unit of measurement? He links to http://bicycletutor.com/calculate-chain-length/ but it's subscribe-to-watch.

 

This is the tool I got here: http://www.birzman.com/products.php?src=tech&prod_sn=93&tech_sn=48

[Skylark]

I would replace the chain and ride your drivetrain with that chain till it starts getting chainsuck/slippage.

Technically you've let the chain wear to far without replacing it and that consequently will have worn the chain rings and cassette.

[Tankman]

Interesting, thanks! Well as you can tell I'm no expert on chains but I do tend to keep it lubed etc. The method you're talking about - I must be having a blonde moment but I don't see where he talks about measuring the chain - as in a unit of measurement? He links to http://bicycletutor....e-chain-length/ but it's subscribe-to-watch.

 

This is the tool I got here: http://www.birzman.c...n=93&tech_sn=48

 

Those type of chain checkers are not very accurate and should be used as a guideline.

 

Here is the measurement part you were looking for:

 

In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.

• If the link pin is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.
  
• If the link pin is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
  
• If the link pin is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
  
• More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
  

 

Replacing only the chain wont solve the problem if you cassette and chainings have already worn out too far.

 

I have replaced mtb chains in anything from 700kms to 1500kms ... all dependent on various factors, some road chains has lasted 300km's but you can ride it till everything is vrot and then replace the whole drivetrain.

[Tankman]

This is what happens.

The same that happens on your chainring blades will happen with the cassette.

 

First is a new chainring.

The chain rollers fit nice and snug. Engagement is quick.

(Black arrow is the direction of rotation)

 

 

As the blade or cassete gets worn, the rolles does not fit that snug and engagement wont be as quick as when it was new.

 

This one is worn ... not too bad ... but clearly visible.

 

 

 

Thats why it is best to replace parts before the wear out and replacing only one part of the drivetrain wont solve the problem if other parts are already worn.

[porqui]

Put another way: use an inch rule and measure over 12 inches (1 foot)

 

New chain will measure 0 to 12" oppiekop.

1/16" over 12" still fine

1/8" over 12" replace chain

 

edit:

Correction by droo post #15

 

1/16" over is not fine needs to be less than 1/16"

At 1/8 you will be replacing casette

 

Thanx droo

Edited June 15, 2014 by porqui

[porqui]

Chain maintenacnce is so important to longevity.

 

Clean chain thoroughly (preferably remove and dunk in terps)

Spot of car oil on each link

At least every 2nd ride

 

Takes me 5 mins

[Tankman]

 

Spot of car oil on each link

 

 

No bru!

 

You mean that stuff that goes black, messy, sticks to everything and attracts dirt.

 

Use the right tools (lube) for the job.

[porqui]

No bru!

 

You mean that stuff that goes black, messy, sticks to everything and attracts dirt.

 

Use the right tools (lube) for the job.

 

Not debating this one - you want to get ripped off go for it!

[Skylark]

No bru!

 

You mean that stuff that goes black, messy, sticks to everything and attracts dirt.

 

Use the right tools (lube) for the job.

 

I have/use White Lightening Wet Lube and DIY Car oil/Gearbox oil mix, both look and behave pretty much identical on the chain and with either if I over lube or don't clean the chain regularly they will go black, ie be contaminated with dirt, true for any lube.

Sticks to everything? Well any good lube should stick to whatever you apply it to and if you over apply any lube it will fly off and stick to everything including your frame, so that's a moot point.

Anyway "bicycle lube" is an amorphism, its just repackaged industrial lubes that are used for many other applications totally foreign to bicycles albeit that they may have the same needs.

[arendoog]

Not debating this one - you want to get ripped off go for it!

I use a bottle of lube between 4 bikes per year at a cost of R100 a bottle .How on earth is that being ripped of

[porqui]

I use a bottle of lube between 4 bikes per year at a cost of R100 a bottle .How on earth is that being ripped of

 

Mine works out at about R4 per bottle and if you really want to you CAN use old sump oil - FREE

[Tankman]

Not debating this one - you want to get ripped off go for it!

 

Lets see, pay a bit more for the correct lube or replace your drivetrain much sooner ... difficult choice.

 

I have/use White Lightening Wet Lube and DIY Car oil/Gearbox oil mix, both look and behave pretty much identical on the chain and with either if I over lube or don't clean the chain regularly they will go black, ie be contaminated with dirt, true for any lube.

Sticks to everything? Well any good lube should stick to whatever you apply it to and if you over apply any lube it will fly off and stick to everything including your frame, so that's a moot point.

Anyway "bicycle lube" is an amorphism, its just repackaged industrial lubes that are used for many other applications totally foreign to bicycles albeit that they may have the same needs.

 

Sticks to everything as in it makes a mess by sticking to your frame, cassette and makes a mess.

Of course it should stick to the chain but it should not become a chunky, sticky, messy, black dirty affair..

 

If you want to use car oil in muddy and wet conditions ... sure it will work for that.

I am talking everyday general purpose.

 

Car oil does not get exposed to dirt, mud and water, as it does on the bicycle. It is protected inside the engine and also gets heated up quite nicely. I dont see any of that happening on a bicycle chain. It stays cold, exposed, and attracts dirt.

 

Next time you change your car oil, mix a handful of sand in with the new oil and see how your engine likes it.

Fill up with diesel while you are at it, you know, to save some bucks.

 

Wax based lubricants work much better for bicycle chains. It provides the necessary lubrication, dries up and forms a protective layer without making a mess or attracting dirt.

[droo]

Put another way: use an inch rule and measure over 12 inches (1 foot)

 

New chain will measure 0 to 12" oppiekop.

1/16" over 12" still fine

1/8" over 12" replace chain

 

Not quite... 1/16" over means replace chain but cogs still fine. 1/8" over and you're into skipping country and full drivetrain replacement.

[Skylark]

 

Sticks to everything as in it makes a mess by sticking to your frame, cassette and makes a mess.

Of course it should stick to the chain but it should not become a chunky, sticky, messy, black dirty affair..

 

Car oil does not get exposed to dirt, mud and water, as it does on the bicycle. It is protected inside the engine and also gets heated up quite nicely. I dont see any of that happening on a bicycle chain. It stays cold, exposed, and attracts dirt.

 

Next time you change your car oil, mix a handful of sand in with the new oil and see how your engine likes it.

Fill up with diesel while you are at it, you know, to save some bucks.

 

Wax based lubricants work much better for bicycle chains. It provides the necessary lubrication, dries up and forms a protective layer without making a mess or attracting dirt.

 

If you are getting a chunky sticky messy affair when using wet lubes then you are applying to much and not wiping off the excess, that's user error not the fault of the lube. I have seen what you have described on drive trains with wax lube, because too much was applied.

 

You do know that the exact stuff they use to blend car oils is used in many other diverse applications other than in car engines?

That people often use car engine/gearbox lubes on their bike chains is because they are easily available high quality oils at the required viscosity. Engine oil does not stop offering lubrication when cold, rather the challenge for manufacturers is for it to maintain its lubrication abilities when really hot. Cold oil on a bike chain lubes just as perfectly as it does on anything else/anywhere else, cold or for that matter really hot if it's a decent oil.