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Rider Weight on Notubes  

29 members have voted

  1. 1. Crest

    • 90-100
      1
    • 100-110
      2
    • Not Happy 90+
      6
  2. 2. Flow

    • 90-100
      3
    • 100-110
      4
    • Not Happy 90+
      2
  3. 3. Arch EX

    • 90-100
      5
    • 100-110
      4
    • Not Happy 90+
      0


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Posted (edited)

Hi all

 

Have a friend looking at buying some Notubes rims.

 

Looking at the 90+ / 100kg+ range.

 

Looking at the Notubes web site and forum they state they don't have max rider weights on their rims. It's all dependant on how the wheel set is build, spoke thickness and tension.

 

Looking for some experience here.

 

If using and happy and int he weight cat please tick.

Will also add a not happy for any rider experience over 90kg+ so we can see a relation to votes posted.

 

G

Edited by awesme
Posted

Arch EX is the better option - it also depends how you ride and what you ride. I am 110 kgs and ride XC with some airtime on jumps and I bent the rear Crest in 6 months so i changed to Arch EX rims and am happy. On the build, depending on how strong you want it, go straight gauge on the inside of the back i.e. drive side. It adds a bit of weight but i never worry about landing the bike.

 

And get a good wheel builder.

Posted

I have both crest and arch .I have used the crest bike only for training and the odd flattish race .Arch is obvious stiffer and stronger .I weigh 100kg and have had no problems i=n 3 years with the crests but i still will not bomb them at 60km/h down breed,s or similar descent like i would the arch set

Posted

There are a few things to keep in mind. Wheel diameter is important. A 26" Crest is way stronger than any of the 29" versions. Also with the same rim spec a 36 spoked wheel will be significantly stronger than a 32 spoked wheel. Failure normally happens in three areas. 1) Denting the rim from hitting objects. If the wall is not beefy enough the dent will extend into double section of the rim and then is not repairable. I have seen this a couple of times with heavy guys on Crests. 2) You get stress cracks around the nipple holes caused by the wheel flexing. The heavier the rider the faster this will happen. 3) To compensate for the flexing you build the wheels to a high spoke tension. This strengthens the wheel in the radial plane. It weakens the wheel in the lateral plane. This increases the risk of failure where the wheel collapses when for example you hit sand at an angle. What you choose depends on what you want to do. For everyday use build strong. For race days build as light as your risk aversion allows. For most guys a strong wheelset for all occasions is the best bet.

Posted

Anyone else found that the small 3 sprockets from a cassette bite into the aluminium freehub quicker for a heavy rider?

 

(90kg+, for notubes 3.3 hub )

 

Ordering a steel freehub today...

Posted

Anyone else found that the small 3 sprockets from a cassette bite into the aluminium freehub quicker for a heavy rider?

 

(90kg+, for notubes 3.3 hub )

 

Ordering a steel freehub today...

Yes .Had to replace my hope freewheel hub for that reason after 3 years
Posted

Flow EXs are great for the 90+ weight range. I think at that size, we don't really need to worry about a few extra grams on the wheels versus something that is pretty damn strong for when you do get airborne :D

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