ShortLegs Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 My 2x10 chainrings are shot so a 1x10 seems like the most cost effective way forward right given the type of riding I do!? My dilemma being my rear derailleur is NOT a type-2 so can I get away with it or do I need the type-2 derailleur? Anyone converted to a 1x10 with a similar setup? I'm running 11-36 cassette BTW Advice appreciated or point me to the thread where this had been discussed to death I couldn't find any. Muchos gracias amigos
Meezo Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 advice, search the poormans 1x11 or XX1 one thread. sorry read you said you looked yourself to death
Meezo Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/139779-shimano-1x10-conversion-options/ https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/137421-xx1-alternatives/ https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/129193-1x10-conversion-leonardi-racing-general-lee-adapter/ The big one https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/131061-ultra-poormans-xx1/
droo Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 The most secure way is to run a narrow-wide or similar with a top guide. You'll still drop occasionally when ratcheting back in rough sections, but one pedal stroke forward and you'll be back in action. Then get the Type 2 when you've recovered from the initial outlay.
Eddie Stafford Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 I do not know what a type-2 derailleur is, but I am running a 1 x 10 on two of my bikes with a normal long cage Shimano XT derailleur. I kept the standard Shimano 3 ring cranks and replaced the three rings with a single Race Face Wide Narrow ring with no guide and it works fine. I have not dropped a chain yet and the rear derailleur is a shadow plus, so i am not sure if it keep the chain tighter than a normal derailleur. By the way when you purchase a single wide narrow chainring make sure to also buy the single chainring bolts as the ones you remove won't work for a single chainring. It is easy to change the rings if you have a chainring nut wrench and the rings can be changed without having to remove the crank.
HBay Cyclist Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 I upgraded recently to a 1x10.It is actually very easy. You can run this set-up with any derailleur, a type two or shadow plus derailleur is basically a derailleur with a clutch mechanism that keeps the chain tension up. I however don`t have one of these and my chain almost never drops(I don`t have a chain tensioning device). Probably 2 dropped chains in 3 months of riding really rough terrain. Also a narrow-wide chainring is a must. You don`t even have to buy different chainring bolts, just go to the closest hardware store and buy some washers to get the right fit. A LOT cheaper than buying new bolts.
AdrianDJ Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 I do not know what a type-2 derailleur is, but I am running a 1 x 10 on two of my bikes with a normal long cage Shimano XT derailleur. I kept the standard Shimano 3 ring cranks and replaced the three rings with a single Race Face Wide Narrow ring with no guide and it works fine. I have not dropped a chain yet and the rear derailleur is a shadow plus, so i am not sure if it keep the chain tighter than a normal derailleur. By the way when you purchase a single wide narrow chainring make sure to also buy the single chainring bolts as the ones you remove won't work for a single chainring. It is easy to change the rings if you have a chainring nut wrench and the rings can be changed without having to remove the crank."type 2" = srams "clutch" derailleur and "plus" = Shimanos clutch derailleur
Wolfie1 Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 Been running 1x10 setup for 6 months now. 30 tooth up front (NW) , shortened my chain and still using my long cage derailleur with clutch. With no chainguide. Only time had my chain drop was with Gravel travel race this year MUD FEST. to much dirt in chain and kept climbing off. Total cost R 998 for blade up front
ShortLegs Posted July 24, 2014 Author Posted July 24, 2014 Cool thanks for the replies and the links to the other threads. I'll get a Wolf chainring to replace my whole double spider and leave the normal medium cage derailleur for now. I'll feed back on how the upgrade goes and more importantly how she rides. I would like a 40/41 tooth top gear tho for the really step bits
Cejay Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 Running a 1x10 setup with a SRAM XO derailleur,no tensioner but as RussianSA has said a Narrow Wide chainring is a must.2 months and yet to drop a chain on both my wife' s bike and mine
gwhite Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 what is everyone choosing for the single front chain ring, 32T, 34T or 36T or bigger?
HBay Cyclist Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 what is everyone choosing for the single front chain ring, 32T, 34T or 36T or bigger? For most races a 34T is perfect. If it is a flatter race I will go to something like a 36T, or really flat 38T.
divernick Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 what is everyone choosing for the single front chain ring, 32T, 34T or 36T or bigger? That depends on how strong you are.....
gwhite Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 That depends on how strong you are..... How does it work, the weaker you are the less or more teeth one should go for?
Meezo Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 How does it work, the weaker you are the less or more teeth one should go for? LESS!
milky4130 Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 How does it work, the weaker you are the less or more teeth one should go for?body weight too, lol!
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