rock shox reba vs. fox float

[Dicky DQ]

I see this way to often. People wait until it is forked or has stopped working, THEN they want to service it!

 

The dustwipers and foam rings does a pretty good job at collecting dust and keeping the stanchions clean.

 

BUT if you dont do your job by cleaning or having them cleaned, all that dirt, grit and grime becomes sanding paper.

 

Not to mention all that dirt going into the oil and then being forced through and sticking to internals where it is not supposed to be, causing havoc!

 

 

 

 

Service on a regular basis!

A service with seal kit is 10x cheaper than replacing stanchions.

 

Agreed, but the fox is the most temperamental. I had the Reba followed by the Manitou R7. Both the Reba and the R7 gave me awesome service and only started showing wear after about 3 to 4 years. The fox showed ware after less than 6 months will less riding and more TLC.

 

In fact the Rx and Reba are still doing service for my son and wife, and are still ridden as much and services equally. but the fox continues to wear at a rapid rate.

[Guest Smimby]

Back to your question OP. That fork should be able to run 120mm. And it will cost you a fork service. Around R500 at the shop. When they doing the service just ask them to remove all spacers.

 

But I think you have a bigger problem running a xmark tyre up front. Get yourself a decent front tyre and adjust your rebound on this fork before playing with the travel that will radically change your bike geometry.

[Eddie Stafford]

First things first.

Have you played around with the different settings on the rebound yet? It is the red (I assume red) barrel adjuster at the bottom of the right hand lower. This adjusts the rebound either faster or slower.

 

By dual air, I assume that you can pump the positive and negative air chambers separately. The (+) side determines how much of the available travel you can use (too hard and you wont be able to use all of it, too little and you'll bottom it out.) The (-) side determines how plush the fork is, the higher the neg pressure, the easier it overcomes sticktion. Test the fork out with the (-) about 10-15psi higher than the (+). This makes for a really plush ride.

Order of inflation: deflate (-) > inflate (+) > inflate (-). If you don't deflate the (-) first, you will lose travel.

Play around with the above and see where you get.

 

Also, that is most likely a 100mm fork that has been internally spaced down to a 90mm. So at the next fork service, ask them to return it to 100mm if this is the case.

 

So go through all this before looking at a new fork because they are not cheap. And the Reba is a very, very good fork.

 

PS, take that Crossmark off the front if you value your life.

Which tyre to you suggest for the front?

[Guest Smimby]

Rocket Ron, racing Ralph, mountain king, Geax sungauro etc.

 

Just search thehubsa maybe threads about that here

[MeridaHFS]

Slightly off topic OP but I've been running Fox Float 32 (26") for the past 4 years(had Rock Shox & Manitou 7 previously). To date it's been serviced on a yearly basis by myself(seal kits, oil, etc) and the setup I do myself as well. Although not as adjustable as the Rock Shox it's been through hell and back with me without a hiccup so I quite like the robustness of the fork but I feel if you want to really play around with setup/travel/adjustability your best bet would be to stay with the Rock Shox. Hope you come right!

[Tankman]

 

Agreed, but the fox is the most temperamental. I had the Reba followed by the Manitou R7. Both the Reba and the R7 gave me awesome service and only started showing wear after about 3 to 4 years. The fox showed ware after less than 6 months will less riding and more TLC.

 

In fact the Rx and Reba are still doing service for my son and wife, and are still ridden as much and services equally. but the fox continues to wear at a rapid rate.

I dont think there is any concrete proof that either Rock Shox or Fox stanchions will wear faster than the other. It is all circumstantial, down to maintenance and looking after your stuff.

 

Case in point.

I was servicing this fork for a client last night, first service in two years.

 

Whether that dirt and grime got there after the 1st ride, 10th ride or 30th ride ... it is not magically going to disappear not in Fox, not Rock Shox, not in Manitou or anything else.

 

You physically have to clean or replace it and will stay dirty untill you do that and that might only be 50 rides or 200hrs later, damage ... already ... done!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dicky DQ]

I dont think there is any concrete proof that either Rock Shox or Fox stanchions will wear faster than the other. It is all circumstantial, down to maintenance and looking after your stuff.

 

Case in point.

I was servicing this fork for a client last night, first service in two years.

 

Whether that dirt and grime got there after the 1st ride, 10th ride or 30th ride ... it is not magically going to disappear not in Fox, not Rock Shox, not in Manitou or anything else.

 

You physically have to clean or replace it and will stay dirty untill you do that and that might only be 50 rides or 200hrs later, damage ... already ... done!

 

 

I get this however my anecdotal evidence through using all 3 and servicing and riding them the same proves different.

[droo]

I get this however my anecdotal evidence through using all 3 and servicing and riding them the same proves different.

 

I have to agree, Fox forks do require more frequent maintenance to prevent damage. I see far more worn Fox stanchions than Rockshox. That said, it's the price you pay for the better small bump sensitivity offered by Fox's coating / seal combination.

 

Fox also went through a stage where they changed their coating to something fairly closely resembling cheese. The older and newer forks are much better. They've also changed their seal manufacturer, which has helped as well.

 

Either way, whatever you've got, stick to the maintenance schedule, keep your seals and stanchions clean in between, and don't spray water at them. If you stick these rules you shouldn't ever have a problem.

[Tankman]

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Edited August 6, 2014 by Tankman

[SURFER]

Back to your question OP. That fork should be able to run 120mm. And it will cost you a fork service. Around R500 at the shop. When they doing the service just ask them to remove all spacers.

 

But I think you have a bigger problem running a xmark tyre up front. Get yourself a decent front tyre and adjust your rebound on this fork before playing with the travel that will radically change your bike geometry.

 

what is the problem with xmark on the front?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

what is the problem with xmark on the front?

 

It's impossible to classify a crossmark as a "tyre"

 

In order for that to happen, it would have to have 3 properties:

 

1 - Rubber construction

2 - capable of holding air

3 - capable of providing grip

 

It has properties 1 & 2, but unfortunately it lacks property number 3 in any way, shape or form.

 

Caveat - it adopts property 3 when coming into contact with a substance known as "asphalt" or "tarmac" - 2 substances that a mountain biker has no experience of.

Edited August 7, 2014 by cpt armpies mayhem

[Flowta]

It's impossible to classify a crossmark as a "tyre"

 

In order for that to happen, it would have to have 3 properties:

 

1 - Rubber construction

2 - capable of holding air

3 - capable of providing grip

 

It has properties 1 & 2, but unfortunately it lacks property number 3 in any way, shape or form.

 

Caveat - it adopts property 3 when coming into contact with a substance known as "asphalt" or "tarmac" - 2 substances that a mountain biker has no experience of.

 

Wasn't that long ago when the Crossmark was THE tyre to have.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Wasn't that long ago when the Crossmark was THE tyre to have.

 

Yeha. I'll give it one thing - it's FLIPPIN hard to kill, apparently. And it's great for hardpack. That's about it.