MTB: New chain slipping and jumping off

[clyde79]

Remember that with 2x10 or 1x11/10 drivetrains will have different chainring lifetimes, so these need to be inspected visually for wear.

 

ParkTool recommends chain replacement at 0.75.  I have pushed it a little further than that without problems, but you need to be careful.  The difference between a usable and ruined cassette driven by a chain at the end of its life, can be one single ride.

 

Thanks, I thought I was well below 0.75 but perhaps and by the sounds of it quite likely, I miscalculated.

 

I think going forward I'll get a proper tool and replace my chain with cheaper ones, more often.

 

I'll probably just replace my chainrings and cassette with SLX ones too.

[David Marshall]

Don't waste money on just any chain wear indicator.  I've never checked the Park Tool one but I know the Shimano one works.  The short ones that slip between a couple of links are rubbish. Rather use a ruler - with inches for simplicity or do the conversion.  New chain - 12 links (ie 1 inner and 1 outer plate half links = 1link) measure 12 inches.  At 12 and 1/16 inch replace chain.  Any longer and there is a good possibility you need a new cassette as well.  Chain rings will suffer less from abuse than the cassette because of the way the chain is forced into the chain ring under tension.  The chain enters the cassette under less tension and as the chain wears it slides more on the teeth before it is properly seated on the gear.  This causes the space between the teeth to elongate so when a new chain is fitted it will ride along the top of the gear and then slip into place with a bang.

[Eugene Stander]

wash the chain. with a degreaser. i use cleangreen and wipe the chain clean.

 

Myne started to jump. cleaned it up and all good again.

if its a new chain, make sure that its not too long. If it falls off the chainrings the chain maybe too long. I had the problem on rough terrain and just removed 2 links and much better. 

[Flashfozzy]

New chain: Shimano XT HG-X 10 speed

 

Your new chain is directional. Side with the writing on the link is to face outwards.

The inner link plates are smaller than the outer link plates

 

There is a fitting guide in the box.

[Fauret]

Quick question here, I replaced my cassette,chain and small 24t ring on my shim xt 2x10 m785. But lucky for me the 38t big chain ring needs replacing too, must i replace it with an XT 38t chainring or will the cheaper slx or deore 38t chainrings work aswell?

[lerouc]

As long as the bolt circle diameter (bcd) is the same you can replace with any one.

[amasendeinja]

FWIW I use either XT or SRAM 1091 cassettes. Chains vary in make and price but I never buy the top end hollow pin versions so I guess XT/X9 equivalent or one level cheaper.

 

I replace my chain religiously when it gets to 0.75. (I use the checker pictured above but you need to be consistent when using is as it will give you different measurements depending on how much pressure you push the little swinging bit with).

 

I put the worn chain back in its box it came in, write the date and chain measurement on it, and keep it. I do this for 4 chains without ever changing chainrings or cassette.

 

Once I hit 0.75 on the 4th chain I replace it with the first chain I replaced at 0.75 wear. I ride this chain until it gets to 1.0 then bin it and replace with the next 0.75 worn chain. I get through 6-8 chains per cassette, and roughly the same for my front chainring. I run 1x10 though so wears a bit slower than 2x/3x.

 

Little bit of effort to check your chain wear every few rides and your save quite a bit on consumables. Never had a chain skip with this system.

[kinggrant]

Where is it jumping/slipping? when is it happening?

 

Most important thing to remember when replacing the chain firstly, make sure that you change the cassette at the same time as they tend to wear simultaneously, the chainrings last much longer.

 

Important things to check is the chain length, chain direction, chain link size (9s,10s etc).

 

With all those boxes checked, it really shouldn't slip.

[Li Mu Bai]

Nope, just the chain. I think it is the road chains that are specific, not the MTB ones. I had better check this though.

A chain is a chain, some are shiny, some more expensive than others.

[velomonatiCT]

when you say you replaced the chain does that mean you did it or an LBS

 

if an LBS did it take it back !

 

if you did it take it to a qualified person BEFORE  you go off assuming the chains crap your bike s crap etc

 

the chain could be too long or too short (did you just fit it or did you shorten it ?)

 

you may have adjusted a derailer stop  incorrectly or threaded the chain incorrectly thru one

 

etc etc

 

its great to work on your own bike but if somethings wrong after you have changed stuff -ask an expert