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Found 19 results

  1. I fitted a new Connex single speed chain to my dirt jumper. After the first chain clean, I used a waxed based lube on it. I rode the bike a few times over 3 weeks and now the chain has developed multiple tight links. Tried the following: - cleaned and degreased the chain - applied a light oil based chain lube - twisted the chain back and forth at the tight links to try loosen them It seemed to work for while until after 2 rides then the stiff links seemed to return. I don't know if it's a defect with the chain or am I doing something wrong?
  2. So this weekend I made a noob mistake. Took my chain off for a deep clean, let it soak in paraffin (old schools cool man), scrubbed it, dried it off, etc. But when I wanted to put the chain back on the roller and bushing from the links where the masterlink connects to was missing in action (both ends). By my own powers of deduction, I realised they are swimming in the bottom of a 5l old motor oil can somewhere in the local Midas's used oil container. Seeing as I just poured the used paraffin in there after the clean. #facepalm #lotsofswearing #poephol So I suppose my question is can I just replace the bushing and roller with one from a salvage chain at my local Bike shop? The chain has lots of life left (only 1500km on it [GX eagle] and not close to replacement time) and I just don't want to chuck it away for no reason. I assume the risk here is that the replacement roller and bushing could be worn more than my current chain. Are there other caveats? *edit: spelling*
  3. Good evening folks, Bicycle parts agent I know told me this weekend that a Quicklink is only meant to be "used" once ie. if you take your chain off your bike you should chuck the old Quicklink and use a new one. Is this really the case? I wash my chain after almost every ride, so does that mean I need to fit a new Quicklink every single time I remove the chain for a thorough clean?
  4. Hi Guys I run a SRAM X01 1x11 drive train. After almost every ride I clean my chain by removing it and shaking it around in paraffin, rinsing throughly with water and then relubing with Smoove chain lube once dry. I use a park tool CC-3.2 chain wear gauge to monitor wear and replace chains when they reach 0.5% wear. I do this because of the price of X01 cassettes and chain rings. My issue is that I only get about 500kms out of a KMC or SRAM chain riding in mixed Gauteng conditions. Is this normal?
  5. Hi Everyone, Just wanted to show of my new office desk as it has bicycle parts in and i'm super stoked about the results. I made a mould and concrete mix, added the chain and gears(I used a sram parts), then threw the concrete mix in the mould with mesh to make it stronger. I then made the legs and waited for the table to set, took about 4 days. I then polished and sealed it.
  6. Feel my chain is very saggy when on 36x11 I know even if i ride its not suppose to be there but its seems like my chain is too long... Its a new chain aswell. If you could please whatsapp me that i can send pics i cant seem to post pics on the forum for some reason. 0763303831 Thanks in advance
  7. Hey Hubbers, I have a problem I am hoping someone (with adequate knowledge) could help me out with; I have a Sram Force groupset, with the 1071 Hollowpin chain (which decided to break twice on me during a ride today) but needs replacing. A buddy suggested I get a Shimano chain, which I did, and the bike shop sold me a CN-HG95 Chain. Now I know generally speaking, Shimano and Sram are interchangeable, BUT, if I research the HG95, it is specifically mentioned that it has been optimised for MTB use (but nowhere does it day it won't work on a Road bike...). Does anyone have a final answer for me (in terms of experience)?!
  8. Hey guys, My bike started doing this weird thing lately: when I'm cycling normally, i.e. not exerting massive amounts of force onto the pedals like you would pushing a small gear up a hill, then my gears and shifters work fine. 10 speed deore casette with deore chain , deore derailleur and 1 x narrow wide chainring up front. But when i pedal hard, like up the hill in a small gear, i.e pushing down hard on the pedals, something happens. it feels as if the chain slips for a second, or as if the chain jumps off the casette or something. i'm usually not looking at my drivetrain when this happens. all i know is it causes me to suddenly shift all my weight forward followed by striking my knee on the stem, ouch. any ideas what could be causing this? It's a brand new chain, derailleur and casette combo. as said before it shifts no problem just pedaling normally. my free hub body is fine, rear hub is tight, bb is new... i'm out of things to check... please help, thanks
  9. Hello Cyclist I need help regarding replacing my chain on my Tiagra 10 speed. I used my chain checker tool, and the tool indicates that chain needs replacement in the future (0.75) and not (1.0) at the moment. I would like to know the chain options that are available for replacement, do I purchase a Tiagra 10 spd chain or can I purchase a 105 chain. Instead of Shimano can I give SRAM a go. Power link or Chain break tool? Instead of a road chain can I make use of an MTB chain. Are MTB chain stronger and last longer? Please advise. Thanks
  10. I’ve been riding only singlespeeds for quite a few years, and have recently got a bike with gears again. I had a bit of chain slip with the geared bike and did some research on chain wear and replacement, cassette, and chainrings, etc. It made me realise that I haven’t done the same for my singlespeed components, so I took out my chain wear indicator and checked my XC SS. Turns out the chain is very worn. The chainring is very visibly worn too. But, I haven’t had any performance issues yet. No slipping or anything. (It’s a big fat SS chain and chainring.) So, is there any reason I shouldn’t just keep using them? I have some spare chains, but have struggled to find a nice replacement SS chainring. Any suggestions? I’m based in Zim, but have friends in Jo’burg and Cape Town who could receive anything I order.
  11. Howzit guys, I hope everyone survived Monday. I am in need of advice, more specific on bike cleaning. Just want to state from the beginning that I am sort of a perfectionist for a few things, this includes my bike. I'll spend more time cleaning it that might be necessary. In the summer, I only washed my bike when it is really dirty and re-lube my chain every 70km. I used dry lube instead of wet lube that I am using now for the wet conditions. Here is my washing kit: http://i.imgur.com/hdSJ9m9.jpg Rag is being washed... http://i.imgur.com/4Zhy1SX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sjxd2RO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ilVOOtY.jpg After wash, without lube So I washed my bike after Sunday's very muddy ride. I did not do anything after the ride but to bring it inside to put on the wall stand. It stayed there for one day. The mud turned hard so I used the hose to remove the worst of it. Afterwards, I mix medium temperature water with Sunlight Liquid. I always start with the fork stanchions and then my drivetrain. The fork does not take long, but the drivetrain is another story. It probably takes up 70% of the time I use to clean the bike. My process (of cleaning the drivetrain): I try to clean the chain to remove the worst of the dirt with the brush while spinning the chain. I then remove my chainring to clean the gunk stuck between where the bolts screw into the crank. Throw it in the tap and clean it with the brush thoroughly. I end off by drying it off with a rag. I go back to my bike taking the rag to remove the leftover dust from the chain. Put back the chainring and continue cleaning the chain repeating with the brush and spinning of the chain. I do this for quite some time to get the chain as clean as possible. I also use the brush to clean my cassette, although I am not sure it cleans between the teeth. I hose off the drivetrain and proceed to my room for the dry stage. I use an old towel the clean the whole frame, rag for the drivetrain and synthetic chamois leather for my fork's stanchions. To put the cherry on the cake, I have a fan that blows onto my bike as well. This whole process takes me about an hour and a half and is quite draining too. I noted that I really struggle to get my chain clean with the wet lube compared to the dry lube. My questions: 1.) Is my method effective and correct (meaning not harming my components)? 2.) Should I invest in a degreaser? 3.) Should I invest in a chain cleaner? 4.) Should I invest in a brush set? 5.) Should one wash your bike after a muddy ride or can I only hose it off and go for a next ride? 6.) If I take my finger across one of the cassette's teeth, it becomes black. Can I leave it like that? Any other advice/comments are more than welcome. Thanks ~ André
  12. Hi all, Please can you help me. I have replaced almost everything that can make a cracking noise like this but still it won't go away. Does someone maybe know the possible reasons for this sound in my video above. I replaced the following already - Sprocket Rear Derailer Chain BB You would really make my year if you can give me the solution because I don't know anymore. Kind regards Jaco
  13. So my KHS Flite I bought for a bargain on the Hub Classifieds is second hand off course. So after washing her after the R4S on sunday, I noticed the following. The Chain seem to be quite badly stretched . From what I can see the Cassette is not to badly worn, neither is my big ring. My Small ring is showing some Shark Fin patterns. So my question is, based on the pictures what needs to be replaced (on a budget of course).
  14. Greetings, Can I ask for some advice here? I recently put a new KMC 11-speed chain on my road bike, with a 'Missing Link'. Followed the instructions, the link seems fine - but it's giving me a strange intermittent problem: sometimes I'm riding, and put it on the big chain ring and stand on it for a while, when I change down to the small ring, it's as if the chain won't go through the jockey. I then have to back-pedal, or change to a bigger cassette gear, sukkel with it, while free-wheeling, until it will spin again. It doesn't happen on every ride - yet I do stand on the big gears on every ride. I'm really obsessive with cleanliness and lube - so it's not that. I've worked the "Missing Link" by hand - it seems no stiffer than the other links. Is this like a 'running in' issue? Any advice would be appreciated. thanks
  15. I have recently replaced my chain as the previous one had worn to just over 0.5% (measured with a vernier so hopefully I got it right). This was my first chain replacement (the bike was new) and I didn't replace the cassette or chainrings as they did not appear to be sufficiently worn. I'm unsure of total mileage but it was probably about 2500-3000k. Almost immediately when putting down some power the chain slips and often jumps off. I have since cleaned off the factory grease and lubricated with the oil I normally use but the problem is just as bad. I can't say exactly where this is happening but I think it is the bigger chainring because the problem does not happen when I am on the smaller ring. Could the larger chain ring be too worn with so little mileage? It really does not look bad (the teeth are a little flattened from riding over rocks, etc but their shape still looks good) and none of the teeth appear to be bent. Components: Chainring: Shimano XT FC-M785 28-40T (2x10) New chain: Shimano XT HG-X 10 speed Cassette: Shimano XT 10 speed (not sure of ratios) Has any-one experienced something similar?
  16. I am riding a Trek Superfly and have a large amount of chain slap and dropped chains on virtually every ride. The chain throws the master link at times. I have played around with different chain lengths but this does not help apart from keeping the chain on the bike. Very irritating indeed and prefer to ride my Trance 26 because of this. Could anybody help me with any advise on this problem (Google tells me it is common with the Superfly?) and will a RD with a clutch help? I am running SLX 9 speed RD and XT duals upfront and see no need to change? Thanks
  17. We went down to the Eastern Cape over December and had some wonderful rides on the MTB trails. I picked up some rust on my Scott Spark 920 chain and cassette despite all of efforts due to the excessive rain we had and the bike sleeping outside on my car locked away a few nights. Can anyone help me with a solution please? you can post on this treat or email me at cbk64@telkomsa.net God Bless Charl
  18. Hi guys, Had a look at all the normal local online shops. Anyone know where i can buy a chain guide locally for my bike? I want to convert my bike to 1x10. Thanks in advance
  19. Hi Everyone, Needing some help please with my drive train. __________________________________ Firstly What I Have: CRANKSET: Custom SRAM S-1250, 7050 alloy arms, 10-speed XC double, PF30 spindle, 175mm FRONT DERAILLEUR: SRAM X7, 10-speed, 34.9mm clamp, top pull REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano XT Shadow Plus, 10-speed, SGS long cage SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano SLX, 10-speed, trigger CASSETTE: SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36 CHAIN: SRAM PC 1031, 10-speed, PowerLink _______________________________________ Now My Problems: - Bad Chain Slap, with clutch on and off... - Keep dropping the chain off the big front ring, I have tuned it and had the shop tune it, even lowering the mount a touch but still after about 20km of riding the problem starts up again.. - Sometimes when standing to power up a small climb the back gears would skip up one and then back down, mainly on the smaller cassette gears... On the stand the gears shift perfectly even on the trail its perfect, just when I stand up to power up a short hill it would jump every now and then. Limit screws are set and tension on cable is great for fast and smooth shifting. - This weekend my chain kept hoping off the bottom jockey free wheel of the Rear Derailleur jamming it between the cage and the free wheel. When I took it apart nothing seemed to be wrong despite seeing it wobble and throw the chain off while on the trail and stopping to unjam it. - Lastly the chain seems to have a bad flex in it, but since the beginning. Its been measured and not worn to the point of replacing it _________________________________________________ Bike is about 3-4 months old, done about 850kms and bought it brand new so first owner. I have never been a Shimano fan, none of the derailleurs I have had worked great and also been fussy. I am thinking of replacing it with a SRAM X9 type 2, most likely a medium cage since is a 2X10 setup and perhaps a new chain However would this help solve the problems I am having or must I check somewhere else for the cause of these problems before spending the money? Thanks in advance for your help, looking forward to your feedback. Kind Regards, Tim
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