floatfox Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 When you do it, have them make 10 or so, you can sell them in the classifieds section, that way you can cover the cost of the one you keep yourself.Good idea...i will take one
Wyatt Earp Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 Any good bike shop should remove that at no cost..At no cost , really ?Have you ever removed one of these ?Not to mention what they paid for the tool.
Justin_F Posted October 22, 2014 Author Posted October 22, 2014 At no cost , really ?Have you ever removed one of these ?Not to mention what they paid for the tool.I don't mind paying for it, I know that bike shops are not charities and by servicing the hubs myself I'm effectively losing them out on some revenue. Also, from what I have read, you need to be the size of a gorilla to get these lockings loose. I took it to a bike shop yesterday, who moved from a small vice to a big vice, and then broke their tool in the vice!! They said I should look at getting another hub because that lock ring is never coming out, but I'll try and take it to a Spez shop today to give it another shot.
droo Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 You can have that tool laser profiled from 2mm stainless, just add standard 1/2 inch drive hole to the centre and use your Gedore rachet. Less than 100 Randelas. Good luck with that. If you have the arm strength of a silverback gorilla you'll only succeed in stripping the teeth off your "tool" or rounding out the 1/2" socket hole. There's a reason the original is made from case-hardened tool steel and held in a bench vice so you can use the wheel as leverage. The last drive ring I pulled out of an I9 hub took 3 people to crack loose like this.
droo Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 At no cost , really ?Have you ever removed one of these ?Not to mention what they paid for the tool. Hehehehe... I took it to a bike shop yesterday, who moved from a small vice to a big vice, and then broke their tool in the vice!! They said I should look at getting another hub because that lock ring is never coming out, but I'll try and take it to a Spez shop today to give it another shot. They're not the first ones either...
GreatGusto Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 There's a reason the original is made from case-hardened tool steel and held in a bench vice so you can use the wheel as leverage. The last drive ring I pulled out of an I9 hub took 3 people to crack loose like this. If that's what it takes, then either it was over-torqued when assembled the last time or DT Swiss have cocked up the design. You should not need such force to strip a hub. I would scrap it and change to a better hub. In the words of Sweet Brown....
Justin_F Posted October 23, 2014 Author Posted October 23, 2014 If that's what it takes, then either it was over-torqued when assembled the last time or DT Swiss have cocked up the design. You should not need such force to strip a hub. I would scrap it and change to a better hub. In the words of Sweet Brown.... I think its more technique than gorilla strength... Took my wheel to a spez shop yesterday, who deal with these DT swiss hubs daily, and he had the lockring out in less than 20 seconds. They had enduro bearings in stock, so they managed to get a sale of 6 wheel bearings and a set of headset bearings for their efforts.
King_Crispy Posted October 23, 2014 Posted October 23, 2014 I think its more technique than gorilla strength... Took my wheel to a spez shop yesterday, who deal with these DT swiss hubs daily, and he had the lockring out in less than 20 seconds. They had enduro bearings in stock, so they managed to get a sale of 6 wheel bearings and a set of headset bearings for their efforts.Well then, as stated previously, clearly you went to a good shop
droo Posted October 23, 2014 Posted October 23, 2014 If that's what it takes, then either it was over-torqued when assembled the last time or DT Swiss have cocked up the design. You should not need such force to strip a hub. I would scrap it and change to a better hub. In the words of Sweet Brown.... It's not assembly that torques it down, it's pedalling forces. If you want the drive ring to be easier to get out you'll have to weigh 30kg and ride like an old woman. And even then, I know a few old women who would wind that thing in a good shot.
Wyatt Earp Posted October 23, 2014 Posted October 23, 2014 It's not assembly that torques it down, it's pedalling forces. If you want the drive ring to be easier to get out you'll have to weigh 30kg and ride like an old woman. And even then, I know a few old women who would wind that thing in a good shot.Just now we will have guys thinking bikes are waterproof and when water get to the BB it's a bad design.Excpectations, Droo.It's insane what the buying public wants .
droo Posted October 23, 2014 Posted October 23, 2014 Just now we will have guys thinking bikes are waterproof and when water get to the BB it's a bad design.Excpectations, Droo.It's insane what the buying public wants . Ja look, I'm all for user-serviceable stuff and I can't see any reason for the drive ring to lock that bearing in other than to stop the home mechanic from doing the bearings themselves, but maybe there's logic behind it. I'm not going to second guess DT's design engineers. Unless it's on their shocks, that's an oke I'd like to meet in a dark alley.
ichnusa Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 I like you Droo.... always good advice and a good, dry sense of humour!
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