Black_Knight Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Hi All, So recently i upgraded my rear hub to a Shimano Deore XT 32H, the reason this was done was the hub that came with my Merida Big7 TFS 500 had issues with the freebody and needed to replace it but could not find a spare so i opted to upgrade the hub as I also like to thrash my MTB down hills a bit, okay so to the point. when im on the 10th gear if i apply as much peddling power i can after a short while i get a chain jump, so i inspected the cassette and found if a hold the 1st gear sprocket on either side and wiggle there is some play. Is this normal or should I have it checked out, im worried when there is greater pressure when im peddling the freebody is moving which in turn is creating the chain jump. Please help.
Gandalf Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 I think you need to check that your freehub body is properly tightened to the hub. Next inspect that your cassette is properly tightened to the freehub body.
Mojoman Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 There is generally a tiny little bit of play but if it very loose and the cassette lock nut is pretty tight, your wheel bearings are correct (as well checking the bolt is tight that secures the freehub body to the hub) then your freehub may have an issue. I have XT 775 hubs and this was my problem a month or so ago, cost R500 odd rand for the freehub, you could feel the movement when you took the body off and wiggled it around a bit. Went through about 4 on my cheaper M475 hubs!
Black_Knight Posted November 7, 2014 Author Posted November 7, 2014 I think you need to check that your freehub body is properly tightened to the hub. Next inspect that your cassette is properly tightened to the freehub body.Thanks Gandalf, I will get on it today then, cheers
Stretch Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 I think you need to check that your freehub body is properly tightened to the hub. Next inspect that your cassette is properly tightened to the freehub body. bingo...its not chain jump its your tenth gear threading your freebody hub because the cap (or whatever you call it) is not tightened on properly. I had to get myself a new freebody hub because of this edit as a matter of interest i downgraded from xx to x9 and my x9 cap did the damage - reverted back to my xx cap on the new freebody and havent had a problem
Black_Knight Posted November 7, 2014 Author Posted November 7, 2014 bingo...its not chain jump its your tenth gear threading your freebody hub because the cap (or whatever you call it) is not tightened on properly. I had to get myself a new freebody hub because of this edit as a matter of interest i downgraded from xx to x9 and my x9 cap did the damage - reverted back to my xx cap on the new freebody and havent had a problemThansk Guys So im pretty settled then of to have it checked again it seems the trails elude me once again.
Guest Smimby Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Chances are that you are missing a little "spacer" that goes on first when you fit the cassette. You will also have play on most of the cogs, not just the last one. Most cassettes have a ring that you put on first about 0,5-0,75mm then you fit the cassette. Then tighten the lockring. While you have the cassette of the bike, you can check if there is play on the hub but I don't think that it is your problem if the hub is new. Normally this problem is because the hub is "shorter" than the cassette so when the lockring is tight (40nm) the cogs are not "compressed" tight yet.
DirtyDan Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Easy solution, just make it a SS. Oh, it is bad to have sideways play ANYWHERE in your drivetrain.
Black_Knight Posted November 7, 2014 Author Posted November 7, 2014 Chances are that you are missing a little "spacer" that goes on first when you fit the cassette. You will also have play on most of the cogs, not just the last one. Most cassettes have a ring that you put on first about 0,5-0,75mm then you fit the cassette. Then tighten the lockring. While you have the cassette of the bike, you can check if there is play on the hub but I don't think that it is your problem if the hub is new. Normally this problem is because the hub is "shorter" than the cassette so when the lockring is tight (40nm) the cogs are not "compressed" tight yet.i have not yet accumilated the tools for all of this what woud i need to take the cassette on and off wath is the average price of the tool ?
DirtyDan Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Get yourself this. So worth the investment! http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/icetoolz-ultimate-tool-kit-box
tombeej Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Chances are that you are missing a little "spacer" that goes on first when you fit the cassette. You will also have play on most of the cogs, not just the last one. Most cassettes have a ring that you put on first about 0,5-0,75mm then you fit the cassette. Then tighten the lockring. While you have the cassette of the bike, you can check if there is play on the hub but I don't think that it is your problem if the hub is new. Normally this problem is because the hub is "shorter" than the cassette so when the lockring is tight (40nm) the cogs are not "compressed" tight yet. Ja, that is an issue. These days, even if I get a wheelset (road or mtb) that doesn't ship with that little spacer on the freehub body, I put one on as a rule so that all my wheelsets have the same spacer before the cassette. Because the other thing that happens if you have this spacer on one wheelset but no spacer on the other, when you swop out wheels (like from training wheels to race wheels), the gear cable tension is suddenly slightly out, which gets irritating.
Stretch Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 i have not yet accumilated the tools for all of this what woud i need to take the cassette on and off wath is the average price of the tool ? you need a cassette tool and chain whip http://s.wiggle.co.uk/product-media/5360087311/lifeline-professional-cassette-tool-bundle.jpg
Black_Knight Posted November 7, 2014 Author Posted November 7, 2014 you need a cassette tool and chain whip http://s.wiggle.co.uk/product-media/5360087311/lifeline-professional-cassette-tool-bundle.jpgThanks I have found them, and this spacer every one is on about where could i find that, sorry for the noob questions, also how do i know if i need the spacer ?
Stretch Posted November 7, 2014 Posted November 7, 2014 Thanks I have found them, and this spacer every one is on about where could i find that, sorry for the noob questions, also how do i know if i need the spacer ? would have come with your cassette it ensures that your chain can fit on your bigger chainring without getting hindered by the frame...I am pretty sure you always need it. The main thing is to make sure that every chainring in your cassette is snugly being held by the splines on the freehub
Black_Knight Posted November 7, 2014 Author Posted November 7, 2014 would have come with your cassette it ensures that your chain can fit on your bigger chainring without getting hindered by the frame...I am pretty sure you always need it. The main thing is to make sure that every chainring in your cassette is snugly being held by the splines on the freehub Thansk A mill, im going to go get some tools today and work on it this evening, thanks
ballisticz4 Posted November 9, 2014 Posted November 9, 2014 Hi, how far did you get with this? I have the same play on my x8 cassette, but was told by some forum members I have no knowledge of bikes and it's best left to the pro's :-(
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