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post your 1x10 conversions


BaGearA

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You don't find yourself spinning out a bit at times? 

The 32 front ring -> 11-36 cluster on a 26'er is good for about 35 km/h before you start to spin out at a cadence of over 100 rpm. 

 

You need the 32 for any decent climb if you have a 11-36 cluster, but if you can do 11-42 and don't climb anything over 10% then I think a 34 would be better.

 

Must be a huge market for anybody who could make a 10 speed 10-42 that fits the standard 10 speed hub.

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My 1x10 Using a Shimano Zee groupo

attachicon.gifIMG_1193.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1195.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1196.JPG

 

 

Hey!How is this 

 

Zee working out for you???

 

Pricing is great, and I am sure the rear derailleur is better than the long cage shadow +

 

 

I am a SRAM fan and want to switch back, thus I am asking...

 

Also in the process of going 1 X 10

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Is anyone on an 11-36 running a 32 and 34 alternately depending on the terrain? I ride in kzn and GP so thinking of getting the 34 for GP and the 32 for KZN. Is that overkill or is a 32 enough in Gauteng?

Mostly ride Groenkloof etc so not hilly but do a fair bit of riding on the road to and from venues as well.

On a 29"

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The 32 front ring -> 11-36 cluster on a 26'er is good for about 35 km/h before you start to spin out at a cadence of over 100 rpm. 

 

You need the 32 for any decent climb if you have a 11-36 cluster, but if you can do 11-42 and don't climb anything over 10% then I think a 34 would be better.

 

Must be a huge market for anybody who could make a 10 speed 10-42 that fits the standard 10 speed hub.

 

 

HUGE bru...

 

I found a company once, forgot the name but they do make a standard cassette 10-42 in a 10 speed flavor...

 

But it was expensive, and not sure how long it would last verse the OEM versions.

 

If I find the link I will post it...

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Hey!How is this 

 

Zee working out for you???

 

Pricing is great, and I am sure the rear derailleur is better than the long cage shadow +

 

 

I am a SRAM fan and want to switch back, thus I am asking...

 

Also in the process of going 1 X 10

Did over 1800km on it. only dropped the chain once and that was when I over shot a jump See the "not so hot dismounts" thread haha.

was great loved it. Rode the roughest terrain in GP to try and drop a chain and nothing. the Standard Zee chainring is not N/W and nothing. Now paired with my Kitted Wondering (N/W chainring) its magic. I have a the option of 32/34/36 but ride mostly 34t up front.

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Is anyone on an 11-36 running a 32 and 34 alternately depending on the terrain? I ride in kzn and GP so thinking of getting the 34 for GP and the 32 for KZN. Is that overkill or is a 32 enough in Gauteng?

Mostly ride Groenkloof etc so not hilly but do a fair bit of riding on the road to and from venues as well.

Done Midstream to Groenkloof, fountains, klapperkop and back to midstream. was running the 36t upfront with a 11-36 cassette. had no issues. I would say get the the 34t and 32t. for R900 you can get both from Kitted.co.za awesome rings.

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I have a Lappier Pro Race 729 HT with a 10 x 1 conversion done by Bicycle Supply Chain (BSC). Shimano XTR with 11-40 cluster and 34 front no chain guard.

 

Really happy with what was done! will post pics.

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The 32 front ring -> 11-36 cluster on a 26'er is good for about 35 km/h before you start to spin out at a cadence of over 100 rpm. 

 

You need the 32 for any decent climb if you have a 11-36 cluster, but if you can do 11-42 and don't climb anything over 10% then I think a 34 would be better.

 

Must be a huge market for anybody who could make a 10 speed 10-42 that fits the standard 10 speed hub.

 

42t extenders? Like JC said - Kitted.co.za will have em soon... 

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Mine has been through numerous forms, started with 1x1 with a Paul chainkeeper, then I had to get gears on the bike, and so had 1x9 with the Paul Chainkeeper, and SLX 10sp+ RD and a 9sp SRAM gripshift. This didn't work too well, there was a small diff in the leverage ratio, even with a spacer on the RD, and the chainkeeper didn't like to work with the gears, even with the clutch RD.

Next I bought 10sp cassette, and a 10sp Zee shifter, but the budget wouldn't allow for a NW chainring at that time so I persisted with the Paul Chainkeeper, but that wasn't too successful.

 

The bike is meant to be a SS so I wanted a solution that would work for me, a chainkeeper, and in particular the MRP chainkeeper(X0) would do the trick, about around that time I saw one at a good price on the Hub, so contacted the seller, who had retracted his ad, but we came to an agreement, and I now had the chainkeeper in my grubby paws, and proceeded to install it, and it works a treat, the chain won't be dropped at all, even on the rockiest trails.

The chainkeeper with a normal SLX chainring

post-2975-0-91128200-1415876767_thumb.jpg

 

The bike as SS with the chainkeeper

post-2975-0-15978100-1415876728_thumb.jpg

 

The bike with 1x10

post-2975-0-47377700-1415876709_thumb.jpg

 

edit, and the chainkeeper works as a chain tensioning device on the SS

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HUGE bru...

 

I found a company once, forgot the name but they do make a standard cassette 10-42 in a 10 speed flavor...

 

But it was expensive, and not sure how long it would last verse the OEM versions.

 

If I find the link I will post it...

Now You're talking..

 

Taking one tooth off the bottom of the casette is like adding 4 on the front ring. Its the obvious solution but since theres been no company to really crack this, I take it Its not so easy.

 

Me and a Mate sketched up some concepts for this the other day. The price point of 11speed casettes are so high that you could do a entire retrofit mod for the same Price if you could only find 10t rings..

 

I'll get Google fired up so long.

 

A freehub for 4 major wheel brands ( take some pointers form SRAMS 11speed freehub adaptor and get a way to kold the 10t ring)

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I see a lot of the 2x specific SLX cranks used. I also have one and have to say the chain line in the top 2 gears is worrying!

As I understand it, the middle chainring on a 3x10 is the benchmark at 47.5 with the outer ring on a 2x10 sitting at 48.8, not perfect!

So, if you are running 1x10 on a 2x10 crank (XT) you need to move the chainring towards the frame by either spacing the chainring or by swapping the spacers on the BB to move the whole crank.

Also, spacing the chainring on 32T or smaller will avoid any issue with the chain grinding into the spider arms on some models.

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I see a lot of the 2x specific SLX cranks used. I also have one and have to say the chain line in the top 2 gears is worrying!

Realistically, we probably never notice how bad the chain line is on a 2x10, as your single chainring will be in exactly the same position as the big ring on a 2x10, which we use most of the time.

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Realistically, we probably never notice how bad the chain line is on a 2x10, as your single chainring will be in exactly the same position as the big ring on a 2x10, which we use most of the time.

 

 

This is true, then how do you get the line to be much better with a standard 2x10 setup using a single N/W ring in front?

 

I have an entry level SRAM crankset, and was planning on getting a single N/W on the front, do I just move that spacer to the none drive side?

 

Would that not move it too far into the frame and have other problems?

 

Otherwise can anyone else give some suggestions since we are here, and then I dont have to read through 200 pages of varying information :eek:  :eek:  

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