SRAM GUIDE Brakes

[LukePurdon]

I am looking to get myself a pair of good breaks and the Sram Guide R brakes have just fallen into my price range with a great sale on CRC, any advice/reviews on the Guide R brakes in particular?

[Bizkit031]

Most of the reviews have been on the rcs ones but they have been very good and are being put on a lot of production bikes coming out now.

[Iwan Kemp]

Review on the RSC over here:https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/gear/reviews/user-review-sram-guide-rsc-brakes-and-centerline-rotor-r1524

[LukePurdon]

Thanks for the replies, I have looked around for a review on the R's but none seem to have been done, that's why Im asking.

[wepat]

Just buy Shimano XT

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Thanks for the replies, I have looked around for a review on the R's but none seem to have been done, that's why Im asking.

Only difference would be that they just have reach adjustment whereas the. RS have reach and swinglink adjustment and the RSC has reach, swing link and contact adjustment. Exactly the same internals and calipers, with just the adjustment differing between them.

[Barry Stuart]

Just buy Shimano XT

 

Sure, if he only wants the measly power of two pistons and on-off braking with zero modulation.

 

I am looking to get myself a pair of good breaks and the Sram Guide R brakes have just fallen into my price range with a great sale on CRC, any advice/reviews on the Guide R brakes in particular?

 

I wouldn't bother with the Guide R's rather look at the RS set. The Swinglink technology is pretty useful in actuating the braking early on so you don't get that initial deadband and you have a lot more control. I've found with the Guides I don't lock up my wheels nearly as much as I did with Shimanos and I can feel that there is still plenty of extra power at my fingertips if I need to use it. Those four piston callipers can slam on anchors in a hurry in an emergency. The new levers are a major improvement over the old taperbore technology that used to plague Avids so you no longer need the perfect bleed that those did for them to run well. That was always the advantage that Shimano had, reliability, but these have solved that and provide way more power and feel than their Shimano counterparts. Pair them with the 180mm Centreline rotors and you have a beast of a brake system.

[pellieg]

do they squeal as much as the older brakes 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

do they squeal as much as the older brakes 

 

 

That was apparently a design flaw on the rotors themselves, and yes. They fixed it. 

[Iwan Kemp]

Have RSC's on a bike of mine and they have been flawless. Have ridden the R's on a bike or two I've spent some time on and same there. No squeal, no wild turkeys, no drama.

[LukePurdon]

Only difference would be that they just have reach adjustment whereas the. RS have reach and swinglink adjustment and the RSC has reach, swing link and contact adjustment. Exactly the same internals and calipers, with just the adjustment differing between them.

Is there any chance you can explain what each of those adjustments are? Excuse my ignorance.

 

Thanks

[LukePurdon]

Have RSC's on a bike of mine and they have been flawless. Have ridden the R's on a bike or two I've spent some time on and same there. No squeal, no wild turkeys, no drama.

Thanks for the advice

[LukePurdon]

any advice on rotor size? I am a 87kg guy with a large frame pyga oneten. I was thinking 160mm in front and 180mm on the back?

[MarcL]

any advice on rotor size? I am a 87kg guy with a large frame pyga oneten. I was thinking 160mm in front and 180mm on the back?

 

I think you have it the wrong way.

You should have 180 on front and 160 at back.

I weigh more than you and that works for me.

 

Enjoy the new brakes, the reviews seem good

[LukePurdon]

great thanks.

[Capricorn]

Purdon: in general the largest percentage of your stopping force comes from the front brake, not the rear.  The larger rotor allows you better braking control as you dont have to squeeze the brake lever as hard as say with a 160mm rotor to get decent stopping force.

 

Contact point adjustment: this determines how much lever travel is required before the brakes bite. Some ppl like a longer lever travel before the brakes bite others prefer near instantaneous contact. It also helps accommodate for brake pad wear which can lengthen the lever travel before the brakes bite.

 

Reach adjust: this determines the distance of the levers relative to the bars. Some like their levers very close to the bars, others prefer the levers further away from the bars.

 

Contact point and reach adjust operate independently of each other.