brucem76 Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 So in the next few days I'll be getting my first new bike. Can I assume I can just get on it and start riding? Or are there components I must check and adjust? (besides the obvious setup elements according to my height and inseam)
PoiZoNouZ Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 Well the shop you are buying from if new should set up everything for you. Congrats, what you getting?
brucem76 Posted January 7, 2015 Author Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks - really looking fwd - GT Zaskar Elite
PoiZoNouZ Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 Well a bike like that should come with a set up from the shop. Where you getting
cadenceblur Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 get them to set your sag as a start, brake and gear lever alignment
Spoke101 Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks - really looking fwd - GT Zaskar EliteVery nice bike.[emoji106]
Mathieu_Schneuwly Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 I'd recommend dropping the fork lowers and ensuring they contain enough oil and that there is enough suspension grease in the dust wipers. I have done this with three brand new RS forks (fairly high end) and two were lacking. Can't comment on Fox or others...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks - really looking fwd - GT Zaskar EliteAlways liked those frames... For starters, the correct fork sag is key for a hardtail. Get them to measure it in the position you're most likely to be in all the time, so for jeep track warriors that would be while seated, and for those who prefer power moves out the seat and technical climbs and descents, that would be out of the seat, in the "attack" position (slightly forward, heels down and elbows bent with your weight over the bb instead of on the seat) Then get your brakes and shifters lined up properly. Brakes should be set so that you can reach them comfortably with either one or 2 fingers (depending on your preferred braking style) and with the front brake on the preferred side (tell them to change it if they're opposite to what you're used to ito sides) Then set the angle of the brake levers, again whilst in your preferred position (on or off the saddle) so that they're in line with your wrists in your most common position. Shifters can fit either inside or outside the brakes, and I generally like them just far enough away that I can reach the paddles with an outstretched thumb. Mustn't be too close or you'll smash your knuckles on them all the time. Then stem length. If they've given you the right size, go for a stem in the 50 - 70mm range (they should be able to swap it out for you) and then get a wide bar and adjust fit accordingly. A wide bar / short stem does wonders to a bikes handling characteristics and you don't want to be too far forward and over the axle as that totally compromises your balance when it gets to the technical stuff, and when you want to jump / bunny hop / hit a drop off and in cornering. Now, saddle setup. This should be done independent of your reach as this is solely dependent on the length of your legs. If you have to adjust your saddle back or forward from your primary position in order for your reach on a 50 - 70mm stem to be ideal, you're on the wrong size bike. Seat position MUST NOT CHANGE from your ideal position. Stem length and bar width can, in order to get fit right, but past a certain length of stem (i'd say 70mm max) and you're on the wrong size. Any longer than that and you're compromising handling as I said above. Other than that... tyre pressure and a potential tubeless conversion, check the gears and bolts on critical hardware (sometimes mistakes are made regardless of experience) and then get on the bike and ride! Btw - if your bar is on the short side, id HIGHLY recommend getting a Rapide 780mm bar from Kiwi. It's just R200 and is strong as feck. From there you can get the ideal width for you without having to start from what already may be a very narrow bar.
brucem76 Posted January 8, 2015 Author Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks guys - awesome advice! Forgot to mention - I'm 6ft5 and 125kg - any special considerations because of my size?
PoiZoNouZ Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 Oh, and remember, there is no such a thing as a bad ride as long as you are on the bike!
VicanZA Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 special considerations! yeah make sure that bike can take a proper beating buffalo style...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks guys - awesome advice! Forgot to mention - I'm 6ft5 and 125kg - any special considerations because of my size?XL frame as a minimum, firstly. Secondly - you'll need stronger wheels if they're the standard ones! What wheels are on there at the moment?
Guest Karma Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 potential tubeless conversion, #1 on your list.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 Jalco XCD22, Double Wall, 32HJa. Confirmed. You're going to need stronger wheels. Just the wheels and spokes, and then build them across to your existing hubs. Look for ZTR Flow EX, WTB Frequency i25 and anything with a wide internal rim width, which are generally stronger than your narrower rims (which those on the bike are) It irritates me that wheels aren't changed according to frame size. I mean, if you're ordering an XL frame, you're probably going to be a big bastard. With that comes more weight. Which means you need stronger wheels... Given that it's a niner, that's even more important.
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