Trouble removing reign suspension pivot bolt!

[NukeproofPeanut]

So in my quest to replace the existing bearings in a reign x1 2010 frame I bought, I'm having trouble removing the lower shock pivot bolt (red dot in picture).

 

This thing feels like it's welded in there! I'm not sure if more leverage will work as I can feel the bolt head is developing play from the allen keys!

I've left it overnight twice with Q20 to soak in. I left the frame on the side, bottom hole covered and i filled the inner bolt with Q20.

 

So if worst comes to worse and I drill it out  , where can I get a replacement bolt from?

 

EDIT: To clarify, I can't remove the nut holding the bolt in place.

Edited January 12, 2015 by NukeproofPeanut

[Alouette3]

Unscrew the one end of the bolt a couple turns then knock it out with a nylon mallet or a block of wood and a hammer. That pivot sometimes gets stuck in my Trance frame. Also remove the wheel and any extra weight from the back if you haven't already. 

[(Deon)]

if you have a mallet, tap the bolt on the other side. There is a bit of pressure from the shock keeping it in place. Mallet, not hammer. Helps also to put the nut back on and tap on that instead of the thread. 

 

Only time you would need Q20 is to get the nut off the thread and I am assuming you have managed this?

 

Edit: As Allouette said..

Edited January 12, 2015 by Pain or shine

[(Deon)]

Unscrew the one end of the bolt a couple turns then knock it out with a nylon mallet or a block of wood and a hammer. That pivot sometimes gets stuck in my Trance frame. Also remove the wheel and any extra weight from the back if you haven't already. 

Snap!

[DJR]

These guys are the reigning champions of Reign builds and re-builds!

[NukeproofPeanut]

No the nut is still in place. I just can't loosen it. The other lower one that connects the linkage to the rear triangle came off with ease.

 

The frame is completely disassembled, with the rear triangle off. This is the last piece i need to remove and the shock will come off.

[(Deon)]

what year Reign? 

 

oh 2010 - Sorry.. bit blind since my birthday. 

Edited January 12, 2015 by Pain or shine

[(Deon)]

These guys are the reigning champions of Reign builds and re-builds!

you pun for fun?

[ichnusa]

Use a bigger hammer mallet...

[NukeproofPeanut]

Hahaha I'm not at the mallet phase just yet 

It's waiting for its opportunity, but the nut is still in place.

[(Deon)]

Hmm, if the hex is starting to form play you may need to look at getting a different allen key to help save what is left in the bolt.. the current tool could also be deforming compounding the problem. 

 

You would need to shock the bolt by securing the one side and hitting the allen key with a hammer, not mallet, on the other to break the "seal". Slow turning will only stress the bolt head further and eventually strip the hex. You'll need to make the call when to stop and take it in..

Edited January 12, 2015 by Pain or shine

[Wannabe]

If you can't sort it out with a hammer, it's an electrical problem..     

[nolipoli]

Many moons ago, I replaced the bottom link on my 2010. If I recall it was super difficult to loosen as you are finding.  I think it was a Loctite issue.

Pain or Shine's method is what I used with success.

[Raggy]

I also think heat will help break the loctite. Add heat then follow Pain and Shine method

 

http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/How-to-Remove-Red-Threadlocker/

 

Google to the rescue

[V12man]

Air impact wrench..... take it to your local car mechanic - take him 10 sec to undo it.

[NukeproofPeanut]

I'm a bit scared to take direct heat to the area, as I'll probably damage the surrounding paint and melt the rubber seals on the bearings. Will see if I can go past someone with an Air impact wrench if the hammer does not work.