Mar Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 My Frenchy suffered a broken spoke this weekend during xterra - damn that was one rocky ride, really put me and my machine through its paces. Must say my bike's ability way outshone my own, but managed to stay on Back to the point - is it crucial to get one spoke fixed and/or rebuild the whole wheel? Budget is toit this month, and I don't want to sit on the side line cause of one broken spoke. PS - There should be a "quick tech Q&A" thread to answer one off questions like the above, instead of starting a new thread for all equations.... #justathought
Super_mil Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Figure out the spoke length you require then go chat to your LBS and get the same length spoke and replace. Edit: Where did the spoke break?
Letum911 Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Just take the whole wheel in. I have had it done 3 times, every time they just charged me for the spoke and to true the wheel. Not sure where you're located but I use Hatfield cycles, Pta
Shepherd Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 You dont need to get the whole wheel rebuilt.. Just take in and get spoke replaced + wheel truing... Is this for a road bike or MTB?
Mar Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 It's a MTB, 26", tubeless and it was the back wheel.
Dirkitech Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 i will oppose the idea of a quick Q&A just because you used a hashtag- get that crap outta here. anyways, replacing a single spoke is possible. From memory, a spoke should cost about R11 and putting it in + truing another R90. The entire job takes around an hour and can often be done immediately by your lbs
JXV Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Depends on the wheel but spokes tend to reach their fatigue limit about the same time if they were evenly tensioned at the time of building. Possible to change just the one but if one or two more from the same side of the hub break over the next few months then it is a sign of fatigue and time to get the wheel rebuilt. If you're lucky it will just be a once-off.
Wyatt Earp Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Depends on the wheel but spokes tend to reach their fatigue limit about the same time if they were evenly tensioned at the time of building. Possible to change just the one but if one or two more from the same side of the hub break over the next few months then it is a sign of fatigue and time to get the wheel rebuilt. If you're lucky it will just be a once-off.And sometimes they just use those pesky alloy nipples that are not the hex type .
Mar Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 LOL - I knew someone will have something to say about the #... Not sure if it was a rock that jumped up or tension. Will do the rebuild with new rims soon.
David Marshall Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 LOL - I knew someone will have something to say about the #... Not sure if it was a rock that jumped up or tension. Will do the rebuild with new rims soon.Wheels can take one hell of a pounding without breaking a spoke. More likely that the rim will break first. Usually the spokes become fatigued and break either in the elbow or at the thread end. If you look at the break with a magnifying glass you see the discolouration as greyish where the crack started and the final break as a more silver colour. Typical of a fatigue break. A spoke that breaks from too much tension will be slightly elongated where the break occurs and the break will be along the spoke and in the thinner section if the spoke is double butted. You are unlikely to see this on a wheel unless something jams in the spokes because the wheel will fold before this tension is reached. The problem with fatigue is that it affects more than one spoke. If one spoke breaks replace it. If more break later re spoke the affected side or the whole wheel. I charge R15 for a DB spoke with brass nipple. R50 to fit and true. R90 if the wheel needs to be re tensioned and dished and R300 plus spokes for a full rebuild.
Shepherd Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 I have been having issues with my nipples.... My wheels nipples that is Anywho, just over a year old and with having been tubeless they are corroding and breaking... Had one in the back and one in the front within a month and a bit of each other... Each time taken just the wheel in and they replaced it for me without having to do much to the wheel except just truing it. When I get the bucks and the next one breaks I will get wheel rebuilt with new nipples completely as they going to fail one by one now... and will be cheaper to replace them all in once go verse the 100-150 they charge for labor and nipples. Then I should be good for a long time on those...
Super_mil Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 I have been having issues with my nipples.... My wheels nipples that is Anywho, just over a year old and with having been tubeless they are corroding and breaking... Had one in the back and one in the front within a month and a bit of each other... Each time taken just the wheel in and they replaced it for me without having to do much to the wheel except just truing it. When I get the bucks and the next one breaks I will get wheel rebuilt with new nipples completely as they going to fail one by one now... and will be cheaper to replace them all in once go verse the 100-150 they charge for labor and nipples. Then I should be good for a long time on those... Ammonia based sealants (Stans, Joes etc.) are not friendly to nipples. Probably worth replacing all the nipples and redoing the tubeless set up. And possibly considering another sealant?
JXV Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Ammonia is corrosive to copper and alloys that contain copper such as brass which is commonly used for spoke nipples. If you ride tubeless then it is a good idea to pay careful attention to rim taping and valve installation because errors here will result in sealant escaping into the void between the rim bed and the rim "crest" where the nipples are seated, allowing ammonia to react with the brass nipples. The ammonia is used in sealants that contain natural latex and its purpose is to prevent the latex from congealing. Sealants with synthetic latex or alternative sealing chemistry do not need ammonia and are an alternative (but not widely stocked in bike shops).Little bit off-topic but if your spoke problems are resulting from corrosion you now have some tips to follow up on.
Super_mil Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Ammonia is corrosive to copper and alloys that contain copper such as brass which is commonly used for spoke nipples. If you ride tubeless then it is a good idea to pay careful attention to rim taping and valve installation because errors here will result in sealant escaping into the void between the rim bed and the rim "crest" where the nipples are seated, allowing ammonia to react with the brass nipples. The ammonia is used in sealants that contain natural latex and its purpose is to prevent the latex from congealing. Sealants with synthetic latex or alternative sealing chemistry do not need ammonia and are an alternative (but not widely stocked in bike shops).Little bit off-topic but if your spoke problems are resulting from corrosion you now have some tips to follow up on.Said far more eloquently than I put it [hijack] WRT Sealants, I've been using the PS2 tyre fluid (http://tyrefluidps2.co.za) and it's been working very well. If you're in and around KZN (Midlands) you are welcome to grab a litre from me for R100 to try the stuff out. [/hijack] I think DomP on here has some available up in JHB.
droo Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Sounds like a case of aluminium nipples to me. Replace the lot with decent quality brass nipples and you won't have a problem again. And check your rim tape to make sure it's not leaking into the rim cavity.
Mar Posted January 28, 2015 Author Posted January 28, 2015 So annoying - so decided to rebuild both wheels with my new rims. How do you determine the length of the spokes needed?
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