Cape Epic - recommended chain

[koukie]

This is true.

 

I still like my ruler though.

 

Definitely with you on the cheap and cheerful chains. It's a dumb place to spend money.

Can you please explain how to use the ruler method, I always use a chainchecker

[dev null]

I am probably the village idiot, have never done an Epic, and from the likes of it never will be able to, but if I forked out R25k+ to ride the Epic, I will fit a new set of pads and new chain every day.

 

The old ones will go in a bin for later when training and maybe the pads can go in my tool bag on rainy days for back-up.

 

But that be just me.

[rouxtjie]

Can you please explain how to use the ruler method, I always use a chainchecker

google sheldon brown's site, he gives a pretty good explanation.

 

The thing is you CAN still make a "chainchecker" that works just like the normal ones(measuring growth) if you bypass some of the off the shelve chainchecker flaws, lets face it, whipping out an inch ruler everytime and doing calcs is rather stupid when you can make a checker.

 

1.Measure your chain on the outside(plates) instead of inside(rollers)

2.Measure over a bigger distance of chain

 

I will get the measurements tonight from my jobby and give the mm equivalent(using the ruler method they us inches) for

 

A.Doesn't need replacing

B.Needs replacing

C.Totally fubar, probably need a new cassette as well.

 

PS the off the shelve checkers still work well, but they have a tendency to report wear too early due to some of its design flaws mentioned above...So if anything they will tell you to replace too early than too late, which is better imo.

[SwissVan]

I am probably the village idiot, have never done an Epic, and from the likes of it never will be able to, but if I forked out R25k+ to ride the Epic, I will fit a new set of pads and new chain every day.

 

The old ones will go in a bin for later when training and maybe the pads can go in my tool bag on rainy days for back-up.

 

But that be just me.

 

If you pay for an entry you wont have any $$ left to buy 7 chains and 7 pad sets

One chain and pad set (*) will last fine in *normal conditions

I'd rather spend the dosh on a comfortable bed n breakfast close to the epic camp or a camper wa

[Guest notmyname]

google sheldon brown's site, he gives a pretty good explanation.

 

The thing is you CAN still make a "chainchecker" that works just like the normal ones(measuring growth) if you bypass some of the off the shelve chainchecker flaws, lets face it, whipping out an inch ruler everytime and doing calcs is rather stupid when you can make a checker.

 

1.Measure your chain on the outside(plates) instead of inside(rollers)

2.Measure over a bigger distance of chain

 

I will get the measurements tonight from my jobby and give the mm equivalent(using the ruler method they us inches) for

 

A.Doesn't need replacing

B.Needs replacing

C.Totally fubar, probably need a new cassette as well.

 

PS the off the shelve checkers still work well, but they have a tendency to report wear too early due to some of its design flaws mentioned above...So if anything they will tell you to replace too early than too late, which is better imo.

Solid advice as per usual. Thank you. I'll be checking in later for those millimeter numbers.

[rouxtjie]

Solid advice as per usual. Thank you. I'll be checking in later for those millimeter numbers.

No probs, you can cut three "templates" one for each stage of chain wear or combine all of them in one. 

[Hairy]

I see a app here to do the calcs for you?

[rouxtjie]

I see a app here to do the calcs for you?

 

Ag i sommer went to sheldon's site and got them

 

In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.

• If the link pin is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.
• If the link pin is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
• If the link pin is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
• More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

Courtesy of sheldon brown's site

 

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

[GoLefty!!]

So here's a kicker...... How accurate is the ruler? I've measured some to be out by 0.3 mm over a 300 mm length...

[rouxtjie]

So here's a kicker...... How accurate is the ruler? I've measured some to be out by 0.3 mm over a 300 mm length...

should be ok if I look at the tolerances above

[GoLefty!!]

That's with good brands. The cheap Chinese ones are worse

[SwissVan]

Ag i sommer went to sheldon's site and got them

 

In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.

• If the link pin is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.
• If the link pin is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
• If the link pin is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
• More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

Courtesy of sheldon brown's site

 

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

 

And how much tension do you put on the chain when doing these measurements?

 

Just wondering, I'm from the ride till it fails tribe

[rouxtjie]

And how much tension do you put on the chain when doing these measurements?

 

Just wondering, I'm from the ride till it fails tribe

just make sure its straight...you would need ALOT of tension to "stretch" it to a point where it will skew your reading, remember you are measuring from plates or pins....not rollers

[droo]

Can you please explain how to use the ruler method, I always use a chainchecker

 

In inches:

 

12" over 12 links when new

 

12 1/16" toss if you want to save your cassette

 

12 1/16" - 12 1/8" will work, but a new chain will skip, and

 

12 1/8" the entire drivetrain is FUBAR.

 

In millimetres - too much like maths. Just buy a ruler with inch markings.

[SwissVan]

just make sure its straight...you would need ALOT of tension to "stretch" it to a point where it will skew your reading, remember you are measuring from plates or pins....not rollers

 

My bike workshop is in the dungeon and the light is not enough for me to see those small little mm lines, never mind to distinguish between 25.5mm and 25.7mm

 

Just waiting for someone to suggest using 1/16ths of an inch

Oops to late

[rouxtjie]

My bike workshop is in the dungeon and the light is not enough for me to see those small little mm lines, never mind to distinguish between 25.5mm and 25.7mm

 

Just waiting for someone to suggest using 1/16ths of an inch

Check droo...

 

what I am suggesting is doing it once, cutting templates out for all of them, and then you are set. You just check if the plate reaches a certain point of wear