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Posted

what does one do if you are running a dropper post with respect to battery fitment to the bike?

Two options- in the headset with the Pro stem, or the less attractive option, externally next to the bottle cage.

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Posted

Those electric wires look pretty robust. More likely that they will be pulled out the socket if snagged on something. In which event, dismount, plug back in, remount, ride.

That's what I would have thought. A self sacrificing connector or something?

Posted

I installed the seatpost battery myself, but the rest was done by my LBS, through a guy I trust and who has installed a number of Di2 systems already.

Posted

I dont like the idea of wireless.....separate small batteries for each component with no option for in-ride charging Rather standardise on an in-frame battery mount with internally routed cables that terminate at standard weatherproof sockets at the FD, RD and headtube areas.

 

The FD location can be used to connect rear shock too, the head tube socket could also manage a connection to front shocks and the RD position also connects the hub generator.....

Just read the Pivot Mach 4 review on Pinkbike. They have an option for internal Di2 wiring with sealed ports and also a hatch in the downtube for the battery......so it begins.....
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Quick update... 1 month down the line and the Di2 is gearing as cleanly and easily as day 1.

 

I rode Mankele a couple of weeks ago. Great trail by the way, but all about gear selection. 1300m climbing in 45kms! I was also recovering from flu at the time and a flatter course might have been easier on the strained heart. The Di2 at least felt like it made it so much easier. There are some fast bits that lead into unexpected sharp climbs. With a slippery shale surface you don't want to grind up those climbs. Holding down the shifter paddle, I changed about 8 gears in no time at all.

 

You can hear the chain grinding over the cassette in quick succession, but it never misses a heartbeat. I have read that the grinding sound under those forces is normal and doesn't hurt the system in any way. Once you make peace with the fact that those forces are going to result in at least some noise, it gets relegated to the back of your mind.

 

On the other side of the spectrum, there were many occasions when picking up speed and changing through to the higher gears that I wasn't even sure if I had changed gear. If it were not for the display confirming which gear I was in, I wouldn't have been sure. For the hell of it, I also held down the paddle for an accelerated change from gear 2 through to 11. Effortless and hardly any gear changing noise over the cassette when going the other direction.

 

There are only 2 gears that come close to any "noticeable" gear change that I had on my SRAM X0 groupset. For some reason, changing into gear 4 and gear 9 are more pronounced than the others. Nothing that hinders the experience, just more of a feel to it.

 

For me the 2x11 range is perfectly suited to my riding. I seldom use granny gear, but if I do need it (I used it twice for Mankele) it mustn't feel so soft that I feel stationery and my back wheel just slips out. The granny gear with this set up gave me just what I wanted.

 

My top gear felt much lighter to pedal although I only hit about 55kph top speed. Definitely could have gone a bit faster but it was my first ride on that trail so I took it cautiously. But with a 34-24 setup in the front chainrings I am wondering whether an ideal setup may be 36-24.

 

So from my first review until now, my experience has only improved, substantially, I might add.

 

Oh, and as for the battery concern. I am still on 4 bars (out of 4)!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

It will definitely. I think it took the road version about 3/4 years or so. Read something about them having to recover R&D costs before trickling it down to XT.

 

I looked into it before splashing out on the XTR version. The XT version just seemed so far away.

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