Kitted Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Hi guys Just having a quick read, you are all correct and on point, when looking at going 1x you best option would be to go with a Narrow Wide Chainring.Depending on what type of riding you are doing is whether you will need a chain guide, the more rough riding like enduro or Dh will require a chain guide for the extra confidence and peace of mind that you will not have a dropped chain. Your more relaxed terrain on XC and free riding doesn't require a chain guide.All this in mind please make sure that when yo have your NW chainring installed that whom ever is doing the installation make sure that the chain length is 100% correct. We have tried and tested numerous RD to make sure shifting is smooth and reach is there, bearing in mind that if you are looking to add an extender please make sure your RD can handle the reach alternatively you can add in an extra length B-screw. Hope this helps and happy riding. Keep your eyes posted on Facebook (facebook.com/kittedsa) and our web page (www.kitted.co.za) for New chainrings up for release in the next week as well as stylish designs.
NotSoBigBen Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Kitted can you perhaps give some advice regarding 'correct chain length' please?
Kitted Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Kitted can you perhaps give some advice regarding 'correct chain length' please? Wrap the chain around the largest cog in the back and the chainring in the front. Do NOT route through the rear derailleur. Overlap the ends of the chain by a total of 4 links (2 links on each end of the chain) -- that's the correct length. Another method (not recommended due to complexity and with RD cages) is to put the chain around the big cog, through the rear derailleur and around the chainring. Pull the chain as tight as you can and the let it slack 2 links (you want some derailleur cage play). Connect it at the link that has is slack by those 2 links. Hope that helps!
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 I have a Kitted NW ring and a XT non-clutch RD. Since installing it I've dropped the chain exactly zero times in around 1500km including Magalies Monster and Sani2C.
Martin PJ Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 I use an SRAM X7 Rear Deraiileur that does not have a clutch. With a narrow wide chain ring the chain does come off now and then. Installed a cheap chain guide on top of the front chain ring that seems to do the trick. If you have a normal Rear Derailleur then you can use it, however, the NW chain ring in front is a must. I rode with a normal chain ring and chain guide combination for a while, the chain was always falling off. If the chain is too tight, then the RD battles to get it off the 40 tooth at the back. I have a 34 T in front. I actually added an extra link into my chain length coming from 2x10.
Kitted Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 I use an SRAM X7 Rear Deraiileur that does not have a clutch. With a narrow wide chain ring the chain does come off now and then. Installed a cheap chain guide on top of the front chain ring that seems to do the trick. If you have a normal Rear Derailleur then you can use it, however, the NW chain ring in front is a must. I rode with a normal chain ring and chain guide combination for a while, the chain was always falling off. If the chain is too tight, then the RD battles to get it off the 40 tooth at the back. I have a 34 T in front. I actually added an extra link into my chain length coming from 2x10. Interesting that you are dropping chains, have you checked to see if your chain is not stretched/worn beyond the 75% mark as this will hamper performance and cause it to slip/drop.
JasonS Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 I use an SRAM X7 Rear Deraiileur that does not have a clutch. With a narrow wide chain ring the chain does come off now and then. Installed a cheap chain guide on top of the front chain ring that seems to do the trick. If you have a normal Rear Derailleur then you can use it, however, the NW chain ring in front is a must. I rode with a normal chain ring and chain guide combination for a while, the chain was always falling off. If the chain is too tight, then the RD battles to get it off the 40 tooth at the back. I have a 34 T in front. I actually added an extra link into my chain length coming from 2x10.What "cheap chain guide" are you using and where'd you get it?
Fisan Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Also a bit of a hijack. How long do your NW rings last? I have some 2000 km on my NW and it only started chain dropping now (no clutch, really, really post rain roughed up stepped down kinda terrain).
Skylark Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Why don't they make steel NW rings, that must be the answer, not much weight penalty and long lasting? Kitted when are you guys making them, maybe also a stainless steel option?
T-Bob Posted July 10, 2015 Author Posted July 10, 2015 What "cheap chain guide" are you using and where'd you get it?Well a full csixx xc is about r1000 or if you have pArts and just want a small alloy part for the set up it's a nice R500 just to blink! There is money in chain guides.
Kitted Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Also a bit of a hijack. How long do your NW rings last? I have some 2000 km on my NW and it only started chain dropping now (no clutch, really, really post rain roughed up stepped down kinda terrain). Our chainrings should be able to get you up to 3000km no problem, bearing in mind you keep your chain lubed, cleaned and running smoothly.Every rider is different some push hard on the climbs giving the chainring maximum force, other do a lot of technical riding bumping and bashing into things and the racing snakes on XC putting long fast rides on the gears. To be safe yes you are right in getting around 2000km, remember that when the chainring wears so does your chain, you might be able to get another 500 or so km our of the chainring by just putting on an old chain that has about 60-75% wear.
Kitted Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Why don't they make steel NW rings, that must be the answer, not much weight penalty and long lasting? Kitted when are you guys making them, maybe also a stainless steel option? We have looked into making SS chainrings but from what we have come across is the material that needs to be used s quite hardy to say the least, yes they might last a lot longer but the damage it going to do to your chain is going to increase significantly. you will probably have to replace your chain every 1000-1500km. We have also seen a few Stainless steel chainrings that have been bent oval when trying to use a softer compound thus weakening the overall structure. We'll keep looking into it maybe there is something we missed
BenGraham Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 1x10 is awesome. I leave the clutch off for everything except Enduro events. I'm pretty sure I could leave the clutch off all the time and be fine. I've only ever dropped my chain in dramatic over the bar type scenarios. Xt rd. NW chainring. I have zero experience with normal chainrings and chain guides. My feeling is the chain guide will make a lot of noise and part of what I love about the 1x setup is just how quiet it is. Good luck.
Skylark Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 We have looked into making SS chainrings but from what we have come across is the material that needs to be used s quite hardy to say the least, yes they might last a lot longer but the damage it going to do to your chain is going to increase significantly. you will probably have to replace your chain every 1000-1500km. We have also seen a few Stainless steel chainrings that have been bent oval when trying to use a softer compound thus weakening the overall structure. We'll keep looking into it maybe there is something we missed Sjoe, someone needs to brush up on how/why chains wear. ???? You want a hardy and wear resistant chainring, chro-moly is a good material, don't really need stainless steel. Chains are consumables, 1000-1500km is about the max you will get out of any chain when riding MTB off road, no matter the chainring material, the most wear happens inside the chain on the pins and rollers and that's got nothing to do with what material the chainrings are made out of.
Martin PJ Posted July 24, 2015 Posted July 24, 2015 Interesting that you are dropping chains, have you checked to see if your chain is not stretched/worn beyond the 75% mark as this will hamper performance and cause it to slip/drop. It is new XT chain.
Martin PJ Posted July 24, 2015 Posted July 24, 2015 What "cheap chain guide" are you using and where'd you get it? This is what I have, bought it from Bring it On Cycles in Kloof KZN.
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